coleman66six

2003 Banshee limited edition, I’m in Michigan, upper peninsula Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I had the exact problem, especially the clutch being hard to pull in. I’m going to say you didn’t set your clutch free play right. I rode with my clutch like this and my ball and rod welded from constant pressure and I had to split the case, so don’t ride it like this.

i like that Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

OK, so I had to do a top end on my shee and I noticed the crank looked a little discolored, I can’t tell if it’s just a little wore or it got to hot. But there is absolutely no play up and down and the crank is super clean, so it appears to be to spec but I don’t know what that crank will do when I run it. I have a really big ride coming up and I really don’t want to miss it, you guys think this crank is good? THANKS.

OK, so I got my shee not to long ago and I did a rebuild on it and now I just want to make sure my jetting is proper, so I figured I would get your guys opinion. I’m at around 800+ feet above sea level, I run 91 octane all we have around here, +4 timing, K&N air filter, FMF fattys Gold series, fmf silencers, mix 32:1. Right now have 290 mains and Vito’s red needles on the 3rd spot down. Here are some pics of my plugs after a few hours of riding so you guys can decide if I have my jetting right. Thanks. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I remember when my shee would Lurch forward while the clutch was in, it was caused by the nut being to tight on the pressure plate causing the plates to always touch even with the clutch in.

Hey man thanks for the reply. I already ordered the bpracing kit, since I have a ride coming up fast so, I hope it is a decent kit. Not sure if it could have been bored because there was nasty damage to the cylinder walls. I did look down into the crank and there was no pieces of metal visible in there, but I flushed it about 8 times anyway. The site claims to be good as OEM, but who knows. Plus I have always thought wiseco was good at making pistons, not bottom ends though. Thanks for the tips too.

Don’t know if you messed with the flywheel side at all but if the flywheel key in the flywheel got chipped or even came out of place it can cause your timing to be way out and it won’t start, had this happen to me with a YZ. Just a suggestion.

I just ordered the leak down tester yesterday, when I get it I’ll have the top end in and I’ll do the test and update you. If it’s not a air leak then I’ll be completely lost lol. I’ll get back to you as soon as I do the test though, thanks.

alright cool, thanks

OK, so basically I put a adjustable timing plate on my banshee last summer. But I have left it at stock timing since I was not sure if my banshee would be fine running +4 timing. My mods are FMF fattys gold series, FMF silencer, 290 mains vitos red, k&n air filter, wiseco top end, and I run 91 octane at 32:1 AMSOIL always. So I am wondering if you guys think ill be fine and experience no extra wear going +4 on timing. THANKS

Did you adjust the clutch free play properly?

Thanks for the ideas, I will probably do what both of you said starting with the shop vac then spray it out then slosh some premix in it and dump it out like 8 times.

OK, so basically I was redoing my top end, I pulled off my right cylinder and I seen a clump of dirt about the size of a dime, small. And as I seen it I watched it fall down my crank, it didn’t go all the way down so I was able to fish some of it out easily but I still lost about half of the clump down into the crank. It was very fine dirt so I could not get all of it, it just fell apart on me. So basically I am going to pull the engine out of the frame tonight, but I don’t think splitting the cases is really needed I think I will be able to flush it since it was a small amount of dirt (even though little amounts can kill bearings) but I need to know what to flush it out with or any tips to get the dirt out, THANKS for any help.

Just realized I said 380, I meant to say 290’s lol my bad. Also to add I ride about 800ft above sea level and it’s usually around 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Thanks for all the help.

Alright good to know. The jetting to me seemed fine, I rejetted it a few months ago and put 380 for the mains in both carbs and synced them. The plugs looked a perfect color to me even a little rich. I run 91 octane at 32:1 with amsoil. My engine mods are, Vito’s super stock pistons, k&n air filter, the jetting I mentioned, adjustable timing plate which was set at 0, so stock timing, Vito’s clutch plates and fibers, pancake bearing, FMF fattys Gold series, FMF silencers. I run BR9ES in the quad. I do not have high compression domes. If I recall correctly I had around 120-130 psi compression. Also, how does a leak down test work? Do you need any special tools? Thanks for the replies.

Alright, good idea, hope this works. https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/banshee/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=2

I tried and it just says every single picture is to big, I took them on my phone so idk why I can’t post them here.

OK so I was riding last weekend when my banshee started to run off one cylinder, I pulled over and realized that I lost all my compression in my left cylinder. I got the quad home and took it apart yesterday hoping it was just rings. I took off the left cylinder and the piston was destroyed along with the left cylinder, hole through the side of the piston. So since I knew it was definitely more than rings I decided to take off the right cylinder also. The right cylinder and piston was mint and had normal wear and almost no wear at all. The quad only had about 5 hours on the top end when this happened. I was running Vito's superstock pistons (which I have heard bad things about, but I was hoping they would actually add 8+ hp so I got them anyway), and before that it had the stock top end which also looked very nice. So basically now I am just wondering if I should investigate why only the left side went, or was it just bad quality pistons??? I am thinking of going with a Wiseco top end and getting new cylinders but I am worried that the same thing might happen to the left cylinder again, so I wanted some opinions of people who know a lot more than me. Was it just bad quality pistons or is there something wrong with the left side of my engine????? Also wanted to add when I did the top end before I did split the case cause I had a welded ball and rod. Any help is appreciated, thanks. Will try to answer any questions. Tried to add photos but they were to big. The kit I am thinking about getting: https://bpracingatv.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=659