Ladle58

32:1

Yes indeed. Funny what seems like big issues usually ends up being simple. New higher tension springs. Went ripping yesterday and all is good! Well except for a new issue with low end bog. I'll save that for another post if needed!

Alright...... took way longer than expected to get to this. Pulled everything apart and everything looks great and is in spec. Only thing I can think of now is going with heavier clutch springs. Anybody have another possibility and/or recommendation on springs please.

I have everything apart. Just need to adjust and put back together. Got busy and real cold here..... will be posting the result soon. (Days)

This was an accidental repost. Delete this post.

Thanks for the input. I'm .05" over on the bore with basic mods. (Vforce reeds, k & n pods, FNF fatties) The clutch basket was OEM replacement and I went with Tusk clutch plates. My plan is to do exactly that.... checking all the clutch adjustments. Next would be the parking break. (Torrs is already deleted) It's good to get another perspective on this. Feels like I'm on the right track. I'll post in a few days on an update. Thanks!

I'm stumped a little bit on this. I'm sure it's something stupid but maybe someone has had the same issue and can shed some light. At higher RPM, I occasionally get what I can only describe as an over rev without the power. This issue started after I did a rebuild on the top end. After some thought, it made sense that it was time to replace the clutch plates thinking the over rev was caused from slippage in the plates. I replaced the clutch plates and the clutch basket and adjusted the clutch arm/cable. It is still doing the same over rev. It tends to go away as it warms up. Looking for some input. One last thought is maybe the parking brake sensor is somehow messing with the revving issue. Any help on this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

I'm stumped a little bit on this. I'm sure it's something stupid but maybe someone has had the same issue and can shed some light. At higher RPM, I occasionally get what I can only describe as an over rev without the power. This issue started after I did a rebuild on the top end. After some thought, it made sense that it was time to replace the clutch plates thinking the over rev was caused from slippage in the plates. I replaced the clutch plates and the clutch basket and adjusted the clutch arm/cable. It is still doing the same over rev. It tends to go away as it warms up. Looking for some input. One last thought is maybe the parking brake sensor is somehow messing with the revving issue. Any help on this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

I like the EFI concept. Haven't looked into this too much yet but my kid keeps planting the seed. Lol.

Thanks for the responses. Compiling all info, had to go with the FMF's. I got her out on the snow after some upgrades and it runs great low through high. The sound is growing on me as well. (Toomeys still sound better though 😉) I run Toomey T6 on my other Shee. Seems like low end suffers too much for my liking but I'm still tweaking that one so we'll see.

Alright guys. This could be more of an opinion than anything. I have a set of T5's and a set of Fatties. I'm wondering what people like better. What differences on performance could I see? Currently have the Fatties in and it runs really nice. Right now I'm running the following. V-Force 3 reeds Reed spacers K&N pods with outer wears Moose boost bottle (Not sure if boost bottle and spacers are a gimmick but they came with the quad)

Yeah. 20F is cold as F. And actually it's about 10F right now. Thanks for sharing thoughts. Taking into account all info, I feel I have to run at least 240 to be safe. I'll see what I have on hand. There has to be a chart out there somewhere that has starting points for jet sizes taking into account all variables.

Thanks for the clarity guys. 🤣😂🤣

I was thinking maybe 280 with the cold temp. Isn't 210 about stock size?

Does any one know what size main Jet you should run on a stock banshee at 700 feet and 20 degrees Fahrenheit

Cool and thanks. I plan on picking up 2nd compression tester for back up and troubleshooting. Perform better leak down. Plug chop. Good to know 120 probably ok. Funny that Yamaha didn't really note compression number for the Banshee.

Stock head. I am 750 feet above sea level. So leak down test is good to do for peace of mind but not for compression since if I have a leak, its small.

Yep

I gave up at 5 min.... it was really hard to tell with that gauge. All I can say is it looked like it may have dropped a tiny bit. Which, if accurate, maybe .25 at the most if I had to guess.

I need to find a gauge with a smaller range like a 0 - 10 if there is such a thing. Plug chop won't have anything to do with compression correct? And would a small leak effect compression?

Thanks for the input guys. That is the exact path I was heading down. Originally, was just going to ride as is. That being said, I'm not the type of person that can relax and enjoy the ride if I feel something isn't right. Plan was to perform a better leak down test and do a plug chop. So glad to hear someone conquers. Any other input on this topic will be appreciated.

I'm sure this has been discussed many times over here. Not finding what I'm looking for though after rummaging through the forums. (I'm also a newbie) .020 over bore by reputable company and fitted to new weisco pistons and rings. Installed very carefully myself and proper break in. Leak down test performed. Still getting between 115 and 120 on both sides. Seems to run fine but wanting to know what I'm missing. If I had to question anything I did it would maybe be the leak down test as I made my own tester. Wondering also if a leak somewhere on the bottom would cause lower compression? Any help as to where to go from here would be greatly appreciated!