Papalala

How good/durable are they if you know by any chance? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Do you guys advise me to put back the heavy duty springs or keep the stock ones? For now my bikes only pipes and filter, I replaced my clutch because I will be installing a new ported engine soon. I assume I will have to put the heavy duty springs back when I do so. But for the hydraulic lever, how good are the chinese copies of them and can u link me one? Also would it be easy to pull with a hydraulic lever and heavy duty springs? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So the other day I bought the driveline heavy duty kit, and after installing the new springs I realized they made the clutch much harder to pull no matter how I adjust the pancake bearing. I ended up putting stock springs with the driveline friction plates and steel plates. Would it in any way hurt more than help? I know the driveline springs are probably better, but I cant stand a stiff clutch. Also if I install the driveline springs would they become leaner with time? I mean are they hard to pull just because they are brand new? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Haha, I was too lazy to convert them to F xD. I will check the compression next weekend, hopefully its a small thing.

I rode all summer and currently winter. In summer it was almost 30 degrees celsius always, and now in winter it is like 13-20 degrees celsius. Not that cold, but cold enough. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

T5 with k&n filter stock carbs 280 main jets 25 pilots 3rd needle clip 500ft above sea and i havent really checked the compression in a long time but i dont think its gone down. I left it for a week after it was perfectly fine, then next week I started hearing the weird headers sound and only one pipe smokes. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey, so my banshee is running a t5 exhaust with stock carbs, and it has perfect symmetry in its smoke when at idle. Both pipes have the same amount of smoke coming out at the same time. But then when I start going in the gears, only the left pipe (looking from behind the banshee) has smoke coming out of it. Plus the sound of it changes when it has smoke coming out of one pipe, it seems like the sound of a headers only banshee with no pipes. I checked for any openings between the headers and the pipes but didnt find any, I tried it warm and cold and it didnt work. What could be the problem? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks dude! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What are you even saying dude? Block what shit off? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Stock head Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I cant quite remmember but I think its on the middle closer to the front of the banshee. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So my friends banshee runs perfect and has no issues whatsoever but the only problem is that when he turns it off we hear and see coolant coming out of his cylinder head and boiling. He has had this banshee for months and it didnt have this issue, he uses regular water for coolant if that helps. Could it be a hole in the head? If so what are the repairs and how much would it approximately cost? Thanks! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You didnt quote the full thing though, this is the full quote: THE INDUSTRY STANDARD BY WHICH ALL OTHERS ARE MEASURED: OUR CHROME T9 PIPE KIT WITH 12 FILTERED AIRBOX VENTS FOR THE STOCK AIRBOX, A HIGH EFFICIENCY 2-STAGE UNI- FILTER FOR THE STOCK BOX, PERFECT JETTING KIT, POLISHED CHROME T5 PIPE BODIES, SILENCERS, STI Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I will take pictures of the exhaust today and will upload them to the website today. About the shearers pipe, how would it compare with a CPI? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So currently, I have a T9( Yes T9 not T6) exhaust on my 06 banshee with a k&n filter with airbox without the lid. Im very tight on budget right now, as I recently bought an engine and assembling it +adding some parts that are needed will take all of my current $. I was planning on doing that in 2 weeks, but then I saw an ad for a CPI full exhaust thats been used only 2 times and looks brand new for 400$. While this will delay the engine assembly, it will certainly help me since T9 is not that good for HP ( I mostly street ride every weekend or so). What do you guys think? Should I delay the engine and buy the exhaust or should I assemble the engine and keep my T9?

Really? I read somewhere on the forums that you should just replace the shift star when you split cases. And oh yeah I completely forgot about that since I usually buy a top end without crank, been running this crank for years haha which is way it is currently junk. So, if I do buy I will probably purchase these items: 1-Driveline 392 cc cylinders ported 2-Wiseco Pistons 3- Coolhead with domes 4- Trued and Welded stock crankshaft And yeah that looks about right. Also for those that helped me buy my previous engine about 2 weeks ago and are wondering, I recieved the engine but still didnt assemble it. This engine is gonna be bought by me and 3 of my buddies for our banshee since not one of us alone can buy all this stuff currently. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My crank is junk currently and due to money purposes I am thinking of buying the stock crank from driveline as well. The clutch I will replace with also driveline STD heavy duty ones, coolant works perfectly currently and the transmission is fine. Would really love a shift star mod, but I am way too lazy to split cases haha. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I am thinking of running 392 CC ported cylinders with Wiseco pistons and a stock crankshaft from driveline with coolhead and 21 cc domes. Tuning shouldn’t be a problem for me. What do you say? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So I am really confused about their relationship. For example, a well assembled stock cylinder ported well with stock pistons will it be more reliable than say a 392 cc cylinders ported and assembled well? Or would they be the same. Like would it heat up quicker because of the extra power, or will it be the same? I ride for 40 minutes and more on a completely stock engine and I am fine. If i replace it with a ported 392 would that make me unable to ride for long periods of time? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Its ported for street riding, power is mostly mid to top range. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

https://gyazo.com/e6ca0ac097dfbc14bf344d1f4e153038 https://gyazo.com/c7b68b1b76be35d34ef161ca0a9d0bb8 https:// https://gyazo.com/e8459034b1737f9774392e1a81dc1a02?token=8ef4271d33c76ad9efd6792f2df01990 https://gyazo.com/ef922a5bb2cefb6950dd9b3946075cfc Here are pics from driveline, what do you think guys? I think they did a pretty good job.

I've been asking all around my country for a leakdown tester but couldnt find one that sells it so I figured i would order it myself. http://www.mrbabu.com/innova-3612-compression-tester-4-piece-kit.html would this work for a banshee? I'm guessing it does but I only see 3 items to block the holes when in a banshee you have 4. It does say 4 piece kit so am I missing something?

Alright thanks dude definitely will do that! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Dont really know how can I check? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah haha I was so confused as to why it would wear faster but he spat out some random shit about porting that got me confused because of how stupid what he said was. The thing is he wants to charge almost 500 dollars for porting then another 300 dollars for a cool head. I said hell to the no and went out. As for porting, its being done by driveline performance and from what I have seen they are pretty good at it. Jetting has always been a problem for me with my banshee, just cant get it right for some reason. Im gonna hopefully do plug chops all day after breaking in my engine until I get it right. Gonna try to get a baseline from driveline as to what they estimate my jetting should be. I assume I will have to up my pilot from 25? Not sure though. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk