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Fr33zypop

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Posts posted by Fr33zypop

  1. I’ve used the bottle on the left for years but the Yamaha dealer said they switched labels and I’m worried it’s not the same. Can you please confirm if this stuff on the right is safe to run. The upc codes on the back are right but if I search the 4t it says 4 stroke.

     

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  2. Let me first say I have no really done much other that opened the box with the parts. I wanted to try to get a plan before attacking this as the last little project of replacing the dust boots on the rear brake took me way to f'in long Sunday. 

     

    I have looked without taking any plastics off regarding the plug wires but is its pretty straight forward in finding the coil? I am just upgrading the wires at this point, mine do work fine but..

    The throttle cable now (TORS Removed) seems like its got a pretty tight bend behind the radiator so I wanted to see if someone could recommend the best way to route it back to the carbs. 

  3. I know my pipes are a set of old Bills Pipes and I am not 100% sure what brand silencers are on there but I am looking at replacing the silencers. Without modifying anything would others match up with the length? I am not sure what to go with but mine need repacking and I don't want to repack them.

    I was about to order some T5s but they jumped $250 since I first found them last year. 

    Not trying to start a war but what are the best exhaust setups these days? 

    Mods - Mild bore, vforce 4 reeds, knn pods. 

  4. I could use some help on this. I don’t have the ebrake assembly anymore. bc057f552dda70f4a3313d10a703fe81.jpg

    This plate on the right. Is it supposed to move at all? I’ve tried to get it to move in with a clamp but it won’t budge. Not sure if it’s seized or what. The only pad I can fit is one with the pad 100% gone. The new one will but the rotor is pinched and won’t fit.


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  5. I knew this would eventually happen as I have been the most gentle with these carbs but last night was the last straw. The threads for the screws for the bowl cover let loose and I wanted to see what options I have are. I am familiar with tapping new threads. The only threads I lost are the one with the little round guides to hold the fuel overflow tubes. I tried and was able to get them tight without those guides so I am wondering it I should look for longer screw? I've only tapped steel so with aluminum I just want to be sure I don't mess it up more. 

     

    The last option I have is to get a new pair of 28 keihin and seems like my best option. These old carbs have seen better days..

  6. So I’ve replaced a ton of brakes in a lot of cars and trucks and wasn’t to worried about the banshee but wtf.

     

    I can’t seem to fit the new pad on the right side of the caliper. When I tried to put on both new pads the rotor was getting jammed by this raised area.

     

    What am I missing here? I watched some videos already but I haven’t seen this issue raised. f9951ec9d4d34708960e233d2d9f797f.jpg

     

    Because I was about to go for a ride I had a pad that was completely wore off to get it to fit.

     

     

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  7. Earlier this spring I put in a new petcock as mine was leaking and this weekend I had a chance to to for a ride and while warming up the shee I could tell it wasn’t running well. I’ve come to to conclusion the gas isn’t flowing real well.

     

    When I removed the old petcock I found the plastic fuel filter has fallows off in the tank from a rollover or whatever from the last owner. I have a pretty new under 40 mile inline filter I’ve ran without issue on the old open petcock. I’m wondering if have two filters If it’s restricted.

     

    It’s hot af here so I plan to try and get a new inline and hose to see if that helps some early morning this weekend . I might try to drain the tank but I need a hand pump to see if the other filters the issue. The stem is bent in so I can’t remove the tank or petcock easily.

     

     

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  8. Earlier this spring I put in a new petcock as mine was leaking and this weekend I had a chance to to for a ride and while warming up the shee I could tell it wasn’t running well. I’ve come to to conclusion the gas isn’t flowing real well.

     

    When I removed the old petcock I found the plastic fuel filter has fallows off in the tank from a rollover or whatever from the last owner. I have a pretty new under 40 mile inline filter I’ve ran without issue on the old open petcock. I’m wondering if have two filters If it’s restricted.

     

    It’s hot af here so I plan to try and get a new inline and hose to see if that helps some early morning this weekend . I might try to drain the tank but I need a hand pump to see if the other filters the issue. The stem is bent in so I can’t remove the tank or petcock easily.

     

     

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  9. Usually the crack isnt leaking ( usually cracks around the bolts). there is a round piece on the back that has an oring on the o.d. that seals it to the case.
    You can lean it over to keep oil away & remove white piece & match oring up locally or buy a new cover with oring . they sell billet ones ( you cant see it but they hold up better) did you make sure your vent lines were open?

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    I read a post from a while back they said they tossed the white cover so think that was wrong until I looked at other installs of case savers. I ordered a new one. I see some wear from the chain so I’ll smooth that out and use lock tight. I think it just got loss but the oring is shot too.


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