fckawhipboughtabanshee

Last question , I'm cleaning the cases with citrol is that okay to use and can I leave the shift drum and forks in there when cleaning it and spraying it down with water after ? The manual says take it out but if I don't got to I'll leave them in . Or should i take the drum out and forks? Thanks guys Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Is this OEM crank if so you guys think it's worth rebuilding for next time or just getting new ones is the best route? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Finally got the damn thing split Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Ahh okay I saw that on a vid just wasn't sure the name ha gotta pay attention thanks a lot for the info guys hopefully by the end of weekend I should have cases split.. By the way anyone know the size of that top screw or where I could get one I stripped the head so I'll do wat sully says but I looked on FAST and i seem to only find the plate stopper screws which seemed to be a little bigger than the top screws I could be wrong tho.. figured I'd replace that top right one since I was able to break loose the left top screw without damaging.. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Thanks for the reply man tryin to get these cases split asap haha but I used an impact drill was able to break loose the right screw But the left screw it's kind of grinding against the gear closest to it and the clutch spacer in the middle not to much but it's till making contact here n there should it be alright or should i look into new ones ? I wasn't able to break that one so I'll spray some blaster and try that one again later Thanks again Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Does that top plate have to come off? I stripped the damn head of the top right screw only because I was lookin at YouTube i don't know why I did that when I had clymers but YouTube showed to take off the bearing stopper plate and the plate above that one . My question is do I really need that top plate off or can I leave it and just take the stopper plate off? To split case Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

The actual stator plate assembly that has 3 main screws to take off. Haha the top one is the one that's stripping on the head but all of the other ones are on there rock hard so I'll wait till I try out an impact driver so those don't strip either and if that doesn't work I'll try to make my own head thread. Thanks man greatly appreciated

Damn stator is on there good , what could I use to take the main screws off ? by hand im stripping the head Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Really appreciate it man , good thing I waited for a response first hah .

Just pulled out the motor about to get ready to split cases before I do that any suggestion on cleaning all that grease off? Is it fine to clean now? Or wait till I split cases and take everything out?

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

^ Will do, thanks man

Finally got it, tried taking pics but gives me a message saying the Photo is to much or something..

For sure, thought the bearings and all that would get dried out and start crackin or sum but Awesome thanks for responses guys Damn Flywheel nut is still on there ..gonna get it with an impact later see how that works out..

And I just pulled out the transmission oil for the first time from when the engine blew How long will it be okay without oil in there ? Depending on how long this build takes or will it be fine no matter the amount of time ?

Started taking apart the shee today and ran into an issue . Got the cylinder heads, cylinder blocks, clutch cable disconnected all that good stuff but cannot take off the flywheel nut that shits a B**** Its lefty to turn loose right ? Even tried hitting with a hammer heated up the bolt a bit was recommended to do that by a buddy. Still nothing . Probably stripping the bolt more than anything... I left the engine in the frame to take off the flywheel ,stator ,water pump ,clutch ,etc.. but can't get pass that damn flywheel . Any suggestions?

Is this something that might work out A-Arms Sport Style +2+1 - Yamaha Banshee ? What shocks are recommend? Haha yeah gone through that to many times when its raining traction's shit , still possible but you gotta be too careful. And for balancing out the tires i gotta question on that . So when i had bought brand new tires for the shee everything was good until i started to see the left tire losing traction dramatically way worst than the right so i though maybe the tires at an angle and is getting dragged at an angle so i had that guy tweek it but by that time the left tire didnt have any tread for me to see any improvement while on the other hand the right side has about 50% life maybe more . I ran it like that for another month or so till the motor blew on me . i mean i didnt blow the tire so im guessing maybe it was evening itself out ? Any suggestions on that? Will balancing out the tires help that out ? and when i say tweek it i mean the front where it allows the tire to move inward and outward

Bike will suck you dry if not careful ha

Alright thanks man yea i ordered that in yesterday thats a forsure Thats what i was worried about i mean at times i would run at top speed maybe for a good 5 to 7 min passing vehicles on the freeway speed limit 65 than goes to 75 far out i mean i dont like leaving it too long on the throttle so i chill at 65 to 75 sometimes but mainly would be hitting about 45 around the city . Trust me man i know about that in 2 weeks spent 2500 when i first got my bike , so im more careful on how i spend haha. Itll drain quick

Alright yeah forsure whatever recommended ill try out so ill just go with hinson loaded basket and see how that goes ( it wont be to stiff on the clutch will it?) greatly appreciated hah im the type that if it looks like it works and useful for the shee than i add it to the cart so you saved me from useless stuff Damn bro that sick! i didn't know you could put digital hours wonder how that reads the amount of hours good shit will definitely use that no joke Ayyy na bro thats a sick set up man! really? i dont know than because i noticed my throttle getting stuck and starting to kinda boggin when i would drive in the rain . i mean not immediately but it was a good 30 min driving into it Just started feeling weird but i mean the air filters i used before weren't as good (Pro Design Pro Flow Foam Air Filter Kit) those are the ones i used last time not to sure if it was the texture or some. But hey on that rain note , i had shitty traction i mean horrible even with DOT street tires (GBC AFTERBURN STREET FORCE 25X10RX12) (GBC Afterburn ST Force Bias Tire - 25x10-12 front) Any recommendation on street tires something that might hook a little better? What suspension would be best for street set up , right now im running stock shocks , stock stance , with modded aluminum axle ( dont know if it might be to light to grab traction )

lol just realized the leak down is a compression test in reverse my bad Chariot Banshee Billet Water Pump Impeller Standard Flow WITH Gasket $60 Billet Clutch Basket-Banshee $160 I'm gonna get those from FAST right? POD Filter Kit with Outerwears for Banshee will these help keep water out when I'm driving in the rain? Billet Inline Cooler & Temp Gauge is this something I should get ? all from FAST

ASI Full Aluminum ATV Radiator For Yamaha banshee YFZ350 1987-2007 Yamaha Banshee YFZ 350 Hinson Billet Clutch Basket Heavy Duty Clutch Kit Gasket? These it? Anything else I might be able to use that might not make the engine look to bad? I try to keep it up looking nice till one of my exhaust' started leaking oil from the jug and o-ring area (front of motor) which started going all over the engine not squirting all crazy but at high speeds it started to leak back so now the quads isn't at it's best but I'm hoping it was jus the o-ring which I did replace twice but once it's all cleaned up we'll see. My bad but anything else that might help on getting all the oil of the jugs and case? Something that might make it shine or back to its original color? Yea Larry kept asking the guy what pistons to grab since he had the jugs but he just kept saying doesn't matter bring anyone so I just stuck with .50 over hoping that's the right one since I took my bike back from that guy , will probably jus send it to get the jugs takin care of But other than that is there anything else I might be missing to be able to complete this rebuild myself ? Got the tools, crank, pistons, flywheel puller , clutch holder . Gonna get the radiator, the Hinson kit, leak tester, (torque wrench which brand Is good for that? ) the clymers manuals has a lot of specific tools but since I have everything brand new do I need the feeler gauge, vernier caliper, dial indicator, small hole gauge ,compression gauge , strobe timing light? I really need that? Screw pitch gauge ? If so I don't mind getting the parts but if not needed I rather not just have them laying around

There's sponsors in AZ ? That's a plus awesome, I'll most def look into them thanks man. As for the straight cuts awesome I just might end up going that route seems smarter since I'm mainly on road and if it won't lack top end that's even better , people seeing a banshee on a freeway , face is priceless. But yea I'll most def look into that thanks tricked n ride race live. 100 Good shit Larry feelin a little better about the weisco crank now hopefully she holds up but I'm probably gonna change out main bearing like said above and see how she does I'll keep you guys updated on how it holds up and trust me there will be abuse to it . I mean worst comes to worst live n learn I'll just end up getting hot rod crank or oem for next time. i just want to learn the whole motor in and out , but that helps out a lot thanks man I was wondering what to clean it out with so the surface will be that above , what should I use for the inside/out of the case for cleaning ? As for the piston size when the guy had my bike apart I remember we bored it out to 64.25 they weren't really beaten up maybe more one side than the other but I rather be safe and the guy had said to choose whichever bore above that. As for the type of oil I use Castro for the gas 32:1 (sometimes adding a little more oil- by accident because when I'm at the gas station I have to mix so it's not 100% accurate so I try to go a little over ) , and MTL Fluid endurance wet clutch approved 85wt has worked out so far unless there are something better for the street I'm all hears Now for the main jetting those are for sure up I think there honestly 320 its for sure around the 3s As for gearing went up 15t for top end only thing I see I haven't done is that radiator any suggestions on that? Thanks for the reply Larry and ye I'm in AZ