This old banshee

Sorry for a detailed post, but I'm going to give you all the rundown of the basics and my situation. (Be patient, read through it and give me your advice.) Thanks in advance. Okay I need some advice and help understanding some drag basics..and some instructions..I'm not new to drag racing..nit at all but the sand thing.????? My bike was just rebuilt.after it lost it's crank 3 rides after I bought it. Basic specs are as follows: 1.) Hot Rods 4mil . 2 .) Chariot Head w Custom domes. (Specs unknown). 3.) 33mm PWKs. 4 .) Trail/MX port on STOCK cylinders w 65 mm pistions (Specs unknown). 5.) Stock gearing @ 14 -41. 6.) FMF Fatty pipes. 7.) V Force 4 reeds on Billet intakes 8..) Paddles came w bike are as follows: Skat Track hualers (was told these are very small) .? 20 x 10 x 8. 9.( Stick length swingarm(will NIT be changed..Thus bike dies not wheelie..I thinks it's due to the A arm /YFZ shock set up that's on it. It was set up for MX and desert racing. Here's the rub, I raced my friends (drag raced) as that's how they have fun. No traps/ lights etc.. just PISMO beach 1-5 gear runs. Here's what I ran against friends bikes : A.) Trinity 400cc stock strike Cheetah Cub. B.)500+ cc Suzuki Dr Q. Quadzilla. C.) Special one off 380cc Rob Selvy built 250 R 250R 3 wheeler. I lost to all 3 pretty handily, the QuadZilla pulls 8 bikes on me by 3rd gear. It's has BIG low RPM power. Now I realize, My bike us set up as a trail bike, as I still want to be able to ride all over by my house, in the dedert it feels like I have a shit ton of mid range power? And building good power by the top of 4th gear into 5th.seemed as if I'd catch up a little they stopped pulling on me ? Here is what confuses me...ALOT U need to be schooled. I'm pretty versed in street dragracing in RZ 350s ( basuclly Banshee motors) for newbies whi font know where the Banshee motor originated and Liter bikes etc. ALWAYS go with SMALLER front sprockets..Always for 30 years ,makes a bike substantially quicker in the 1/4 Mile. Now I've been advised to go to around a 15 -43 gearing, which is basiclly the same ratio as stock? ...but I've been told it will allow me to launch accelerate faster?? But it doesn't make sense to my brain...its the SAME ratio ? WHY CANT I JUST USE A 13 FRONT which is a lower ratio ??. Please EXPLAIN this to me..tell me what Im missing and what gearing I should run to drag race these guys next time we go out in November...I wanna beat at least some of them...lol My motor is NOT going to be altered out side of jetting..it runs good and safe...I hope..lol (Tell me what you think of my ideas)...to be able to swap it into the fastest possible dragbike for when we go to the dunes, I'll swap it all back to trail riding at my Mohave desert home. 1.) Re- gear to what a proven gear ratio. ADVISE Me what to use. 2.) Swap a set of Matt Shearer Small Bore in frames drag pipes vs my FMF Fatties..Do you think they will make a difference ?? Be Honest. If he's willing to Dyno his set vs my fatties in front if needed I'll buy them...if there substantially faster for drag racing I was told there useless for MX/trail riding. What say you folks? So I'll keep both sets to swap if necessary. 3.) I was advised my rear tires are not good for drag racing in the sand...what DIA. should I look for ? If that's the case. OKAY...THATS IT...LOL LET ME KNOW WHAT YOU ALL THINK...AND LETS GO GET EM NEXT TIME !!!

Great! ...with that many people.. there's still a chance!

Here is one other photo of the swingarm, hopefully someone can identify it.

Hello everyone, I bought a Banshee, and have a swingarm on it that I cannot identify. I thought it might be a Lone Star as I have the anti vibe and A-arms, but Was told it is not. Much appreciated if anyone can help, Thanks.

Well ..DISASTER! Been out if town for work for a month, came back went to go for a ride...after about 10 min... something let loose in the motor... something BAD. No idea what it is..but motor is locked up solid...no leaks etc.. was running just fine..then almost instantly...it sputtered then make some nice clunk & metal sounds. Looks like the seller in AZ completely lies to me when he said it had a rebuilt motor..very,v very disappointed...it's the main reason I bought it..I wanted stock reliability...I can't justify or afford a total shop rebuild...this sucks. Since my wife died last year...I just wanted to get out and get some fresh air..now in $2600.00 in the hole. Thanks for those whom responded...I'm having trouble connecting w messages here? Phone trouble too. UGggggh. If I can find the contact info from the guy in Morning Valley, I pass there twice a day would be nice to see what two heads can figure out. 1st thing is going to be getting the motor out for inspection to find out what the hell happened

I'm in Yucca Valley area, about 40 min N. of Palm Springs. I'd be willing to buy all the required parts, and do o a BBQ & beer session, as long as others know 100% what to do and show me, what I'm looking at. Or if there is a reasonable shop, that can diagnose the issue at a reasonable cost. I did call a place called Inland ATV in Lona Linda/Redlands area. He sounded fair, and level headed. But if I could do it cheaper and effectively..then that would help my situation. I just want to make sure she's 100% reliable. Rode her today for about 10 min, as long as the shifter is super tight..there's no imediate issue. But I'm worried the trans could pop if I'm out far away from the house. Here's the girl, basically stock motor, with a ADA head & 19cc domes. Ohlins R shock,YZF fronts,Lonestar A-Arms, DWT Run flat tires, Ricky Stator "La Paz" light bar and 9" LEDs, IMS Desert tank,Lonestar anti vibration triple clamps, FMF Fatty. I paid $2700.00 seemed fair, I couldn't have built it fir under 4k.

Okay, Sorry for the long post, please be patient as I'm trying to explain it thoughIy . I need really detailed tutoring here. As I don't know what to look for, as I have nothing to compare it to. I'VE SEARCHED..But nothing was detailed..and read opinions on similar threads ,but answers were mostly guesses. I'd like absolute SPECIFICS if possible and EXACTLY what to look for and what to buy..I don't mind buying several parts...to endure reliability. But I really can't afford to drop $600.00 to a quoted possible 2k to overhual a complete tranny. I paid $$2700.00 Now I couldn't sell it in good conscience to anyone..I'm stuck with it now..I don't need another broken project. The shift shaft that the shifter lever is attached to, has excessive side to side play. The shaft will want to vibrate out toward the footpeg, and then prevents me from the on shifting into 3rd gear. It has a after market "tusk" shifter lever, but it does not tighten well, had to tighten it to the point of almost breaking it to stop it from vibrating loose off the splines on the shift shaft. NOW IT WILL SHIFT THROUGH ALL GEARS, As the shifter lever prevents the shaft from walking too far outwards. But there still is side to side movement and to me it sounds as if there is excessive noise, inside the vicinity of the clutch cover, bear the back in the area the shaft would be? I Iost my wife to cancer earlier in the year, had to sell my house and move to the sticks, I have dirt for a front road so decided to use every xtra penny I had & bought this bike from AZ, & brought it back to Calif. The seller stated it was rebuilt top & bottom end, but (kid had no receipts). Obviously it appears as if it was not, or just my usual bad luck. I'm really bummed, as I only got to ride it 2hrs .All the shops estimated me about $600.00-$1000.00 to fix it. Any help us greatly appreciated! No matter how detailed it will help. Tell me what to look for, how to diagnose,what parts and tools I will need and how to put it all back together.and make 100% sure I know how to do it,so I don't have to do it a 2nd time. Thanks so much! NOTE** The attached pic, is not the Banshee ., The system has not allowed me to delete the selection, it keeps re submitting the same pic