itsaripper
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Posts posted by itsaripper
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Has anyone wired a newer ( 97through 05) to a older wire harness? What is the extra wire on the bigger plug going to? Can it just be dropped? Then hook up like color to like color?
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The proper machine to use is made by CC Specialty tool . The other one that is real close is Fordom. Type in CCSpecialtytool.com and you will see the tools and the prices. Go to ebay and try Foredom, that is the other good machine. Dremel does make a variable speed grinder but it is not going to be heavy enough to do more than a couple of jobs. The foredom type grinder on ebay would be OK for the money. The power at slow RPMs is what you need. Aluminum needs to be ground on at slow speeds. I use carbide bits, some single cut and some double cut. Finish up with sanding rolls.
Don't polish the intake! Its ok to polish the exhaust. I went to a auto paint store and bought some 800, 1000, 1500 and 2000 grit sand paper and used the shank from a old six inch carbide bit and duct taped the strip of sand paper to the shank. Then just go to polishing. Most of the time when you get to 1000 grit the polish looks pretty good.
The big exspence is that 90 degree cutter, but you need it to get the tranfer tubes. How good you get them, and the timeing on the ports will make or brake your port job. You want to widen the ports first then raise. The more you raise the exhaust the peakeyer your power will be.
Really you should go read a book by A Grayham Bell,or Gordon Jennings. If you are serious about porting. If you are just going to clean up the ports maybe you don't need to, but they will tell you the WHY you do thing a certain way or not to do them.
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I have seen a banshee with a set of Bills pipes. They had a good low end and midrange. They did not seem to pull as far as FMF fatties. The set of pipes that they are the closest to is the fatties.
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Wallrat, If it works out what do you think that intake will cost?
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I too have seen some really fast 250r on the Oregon coast. Most of them are not anything close to 250 anymore. There was a white one at Hauser, north of horsefalls, that was crazy fast. It seem northern Oregon has a lot of builders that specalize in 250r's. Like LRD, White knuckle, MP racing, Shortys, and they bring them to the dunes to test and tune.
It wouldn't suprize me to see a fast 250r. But I doute if its is close being stock!!!
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Man your writing is hard to follow. You can leave the lid and the snorkel on, but you will restrict the flow of the pipes. A mod that I did when I got my banshee was, Throw away the stock filter and get a K&N(the big one). The take a two inch hole saw and put two holes in the back where the mud can't get on the filter. I just went and looked at my old air cleaner box and you may have to put three one inch holes there. With the added air on the intake you should need to go to about 240 on the main jet
Oh yea I saw a dyno run that showed the banshee picked up 5 hp by just taking the snorkel off.
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When you add the carb cleaner you are just replacing the gas. So go back into the carb and get a air nozzel and blow it out. Something in the idle circuit is still pluged.
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Well personally I am waiting till the 4s come out. You see 2s are good, and 3s are only one better than the 2s. But now the 4s should double the horse power.
Boy with those 4s and the two rockets I installed on the grab bar maybe I should get a parachute.
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You have taken the plug out and checked the spark after letting it cool off? From your discription you get it started but that it takes a lot of cranking. My first thought was that the carbs are slobbering over when the motor is hot and not running. That floods the engine. On a nother idea, the coil can short when it gets hot. The coils wires inside get warm and swell up. If there is a bear spot that is rubbed off then it shorts out.
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Is it leaking to the outside, or into the cylinder? I know this is prolly a stupid question but, have you tryed a new o-ring?
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Its not the bearing going out. Its the seal going bad, it is letting trans oil into the cylinder. That is why your plug is oily. That mean you will have to split the case's to get the seal out. But while you are in there check the crank bearings. That is the time to change them when its all apart.
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Did you cut them strait or balogna slice, fit them, then glue?
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I don't know the name of this tool but it is basicly a blower. It has a hose attached to the bottom of the front. As the air flows past the whole it sucks what ever the tube is in. It works great, and you can find them at any auto-parts store. Get all that water out and soak in any lite oil to displace the moisture and stop and rust. I have taken a rag and ran it around in front of the rod to get stuff out too.
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Well Bud, 1to1 means one part gas to one part oil. 32 to 1 is 32 parts gas to 1part oil, etc, etc. I have been running Amsoil for two years at 50 to one and haven't lost any compression due to exsessive wear. Almost all of my riding has been in the sand dunes, which works your motor way more than dirt. I am no light weight and I ride the bashee hard. So I know the motor gets worked . Don't be afraid to take a good quality oil out to 50 to 1. It is the quality of the oil that counts not the volume of oil that is put in the gas. By the way I always take more gas than I need anytime I go riding, and a extra quart of oil.
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You shouldn't worry about carbs yet. Get the pipes first, then a K&N air filter. Port your reeds and use TDR single .018 pettles. Get a aftermarket head and use 20cc domes. Advance the timing 4 degrees.You will need to run some trick fuel about 50/50 mix with regular. Now the jetting should be about 310 or 320 with the clip on the needle moved down to the middle notch. After these mods you can think about some new carbs.
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The problem is on the edge of the piston, at the exhaust? If there is a hole in the middle of the piston that would be detonation, caused by high compresson with low octane. If the edge of the piston is ate off and looks scuffed like your picture. The biggest culpret would be heat. With hot weather and running hard the piston doesn't have time to cool off.
You also said this only is on the left side. That says your crank seal was leaking, leaning out and running hotter. Also look at the intake boot to see if there is any cracks. Or the seal on the reeds to could be leaking.
With a two stroke there can be two or three things contributing to the problem all at once. Like not enought oil in gas, low octane, high compresson, air leak, or somthing restrickting the gas going to that sides carb. If you just rebuilt the motor did you make sure the end gap on the rings was .012 to .018 ? I could go on, but check these out and get back if you still can't find anything wrong.
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Almost anytime you have a backfire on a two stroke you are lean. In the rpm range you are talking about there is something in the pilot jet. A friends banshee was doing just what you said and when I cleaned the carb out there was a little piece of fuzz in it.
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Right now I have mostly Craftsman, some mac and snap-on. I had 75% snap-on tools, 25% craftsman. The snap-on I used at the shop and craftsman I took to the field to work on tractors. I figured I would rather loose a craftsman than a snap-on.
I said I used to have. Well three years ago our farm shop/barn burnt down, right along with all my tools. Guess who replaced every one of their tools without asking a question? CRAFTSMAN!!!!! Snap-on said they wern't broke so he couldn't do it. But if I had owed money on them he would have replaced them.
So now if I buy snap-on its off of ebay.I like Mac hand tool the best because they are square and don't cut into your hand when pulling on them. Also the Craftsman professional tool are really great stuff.
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That port job looks pretty cobby.
You could even that up yourself, but more important is how much was the exhaust raised. My stock set of jugs measure 30mm from top of deck to top of exhaust port. The exhaust should be widdend befor it is opened upwards. If it hasn't been opened up past 28mm you should still be good. Also don't narrow that center bridge any more. Hard on rings. -
Have you read Benb's jetting Faq? Go to www.dfn.com/benkaren/jetfaq.html That will tell you everything about jetting you will need. Copy it to paper so you can take it right out to the banshee while you are jetting.
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July 2nd I did just what cotton eye Joe did a nosedive off into a hidden hole going up what looked like a long gentle slope. Broke my left coller bone and fractured my right wrist. I didn't know the area and should have let someone else lead. All this talk of braking bones my stomach is having sempathy pains or just remembering all that.
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Running another base gasket will raise the head away from the top of the piston. It will also lower the compresson so maybe you will have to go to a smaller dome size to make up for the loss. If you are useing the stock head you should be able to buy a thicker head gasket too.
Duneslinger I also have a choozen head, and was told by a mechanic who put one on a 66 mm banshee, that it leaked water. So for my 66.25 jugs I would need a stock head or pro design with big bore domes. You haven't had any trouble?
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Prolly Ebay is the best bet. Go to images and down to "My new 89 banshee" by Minkia 38. He is running FMF powercore twos. So they must fit or can be adapted real easy.
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Do you have a air conpressor? Blow those cylenders out. You need the head on to get a compresson test. Was it hard to start? Or had no power? Why did you take the head off? Run those pistons up to the top and take your pocker knife and clean the carbon off and see if there is any numbers, like .020 or .030 etc. When you know what the bore is then you can have a machine shop mic the bores to see if they need to be bored.
CDI
in Banshee Repairs and Mods
Posted
Thanks for the reply, I want to get one of the new higher rev cdi and use it. I just didn't want to buy and then be sitting here going dang this thing is different. I have a friend with a 04 that I can look at and compair.
Anyone know where that fifth wire goes? I think its the white one on the big plug.