slater

Ill definitely need these also, I just got a brand new pump gasket and case gasket, wont those still be fresh enough after the few days they where on or does 1 use and oil soaking in cause them to be worthless? Thanks Ya, Im going to do it right the first time. Have it be good for a few years.

Ya thats what ill do. "Fast?" whats their website or contact info?

Ok guys, in a few days I will be going to do my leakdown test. I feel very confident that the leak will be the right inner seal that seals the crank from the case. If this is the case I have found a few options and would like some feedback from you guys on these. OPTION ONE: I have found that many have used a method of drilling small wholes into the seal and using sheet metal screws to shimmy it out using the bearing as the wedge to push it out, then use a cylinder and a rubber mallet / gobs of grease to put the new one back in. (sounds sketchy to me but the only thing that could go wrong is / tear the seal or crack the bearing wall) in this case I would need to go to option two anyway. OPTION TWO: Split the case (OMG) and redo the entire lower. This will suck because I will need to replace all lower seals / gaskets since they are probably the originals and it will absolutely leak after it has been split if I do not go full new on all seals. THE QUESTION: should I just crack the damn case and do it anyway or option 1 first if there are no other leaks found on the lower? Then if I split the bearing I could then go for option 2. If anyone knows of a kit that includes all lower gaskets / seals needed to split the case and put back together new, please point me in that direction. I have also heard that the aftermarket brand gaskets / seals are not recommended for doing a full lower, any comment on this? Thanks guys

Thanks guys I appreciate all the help, will be a week before I can stop by my friends to use his leakdown tester again. Was holding. At 6psi before I cleaned out the crankcase so Im hopeing i just cleaned the keyway out and thats it. If not and I have to split the case thats going to suck. Unfortunately I have this gut feeling its the seal based on how much it must be leaking to drain the fluid so much in one day and cause the right side to not fire when tuned to the original spec that worked before. Fingers crossed. Thanks larrysshee i will check all of that and make changes stated also. Tricked carbine , thanks added to my to do list. Appreciate all the help guys.

first order of business

No I did not, tbh I probably cleaned it off. Ill explain why im so stupid and did that lol. The previouse owner put liquid sealant on everything, even the outer cover. Instead of using gaskets, So when I put it back together the keyway was just a o ring after my cleaning frenzy, i probably didnt seal it because the whole case was basically a oil / liquid sealant 50 / 50 mix type gunk lol. Im guessing I should just get some liquid sealant and seal it then? How will I get the already flooded oil out of the right cylinder though? i could put the bigger jet back on and run it out because it seems that adding more fuel was the reason for it fireing before. But was just super sloppy because the oil mix was so high.

OMG, crank is leaking into the right cylinder, Just filled it, new outer seal, level is now very low, none was lost from outer case.... This explains alot... and sux. which seal would it be? and could this cause any major issues? This makes alot of sense since I thought i was fouling plugs, after figureing this out, I tested all of the plugs that I thought was fouled, they all work lmao. ok so if this didnt do any major damage, I should be good after fixing the crank seal, is it an easy fix? Was probably why I couldnt find my tune, and it would sometimes runs like a beast then go back to shit.

For some reason I cannot edit my post above, more than 1 time? Wanted to make this more clear the reason it was running out lean at first was because I was trying to rejet for summer on my main but wasnt running well because I had the wrong pilot in while trying to rejet the main. This caused most of my confusions. I had put in one that is 1 size up from what it was running before. I may have caused an issue with all of the overfueling / testing and attempting to lean out more on my main while not giving enough fuel on the idle, this may have caused my current issues?

Im going to clean all of this up to make it more clear, I have been all over the place with this and it seems that I have multiple issue, but someone might know where I should start if I explain everything that has happened. At first when I got the bike back together it fired. and ran but was running out lean. after but loads of trial and error I found that during my rebuild I had mixed up the pilot jets and put in the wrong one. I had put in one that is 1 size up from what it was running before. I may have caused an issue with all of the overfueling / testing that has caused my current issue. The quad is only running on the left side now. Currently I am back to my old setup that was running before the rebuild. Bike info. bored out 30 over, heads shaved 14, toomey T5 pipes and 2 into 1 carb kit with a keihin 35mm carb. Almost all of the issues posted about before where probably attributed to having the wrong pilot in wile i fluttered around with the mains and the airscrew to no / little success. Now I have swapped back to the correct setup that was running before and the bike has stop running on the right hand side. Tests so far to troublesoot. I have swapped both plugs while keeping the wires the same / then I have swaped the wires while keeping the plugs the same and tested each condition. No luck, still only firing on the left hand side. Left hand side will not runn solo and it "boggs out" im not sure if this is common but im guesing it wont run on one side? if it will then I have more issues. Since its a 2 into 1 I cannot figure why it would only fire on one side due to a carb issue. Maybe a weak read? Maybe during my testing I caused an issue with the piston? When kicked both sides still have comprssion. I rolled it down a hill and tryd to fire it and no luck, but I was able to see that I am getting fuel on both sides and after testing the plugs and wires I find that both have spark in every variation of plug / cap / wire combination. Could it be that there may be an air leak on the right side and the fuel / air mix is not enough to fire it? could it be that when I whent back to my old pilot jet wich is 1 size smaller that its not getting enough fuel to that side with the combination of having a possible air leak? Is it possible for a stator issue to only effect one side even when swapping everyting around to all positions with still no fire? Seems like that would be weird. Thanks for any help / ignore any posts above this point as they dont target the primary issue and are due to my mishap of using a more rich setup then I needed.

Maybe stator problem?

Ok, so right side that is not fireing is getting both fuel and spark. What could cause it not to fire? Air leak? Should it run on one cylander? Because it will not, just dies off when trying to hill roll start it.

Checked plugs and cables by swapping both, still only fires left side with all combinations

Ok, found the source of most of the problems. Damn pilot was wrong lol. Got it set but now only left cylinder is firing, wont stay running like that either. Right cylander doesnt look like its even getting fuel, which doesnt make sense because its a 2 into 1 setup.

Does it cause it to run richer at idle or leaner?

I think all of it has risen from the change in the cable and then experimenting from there with out addressing the original issue. I was wrong about idle, its not set, not sure why it ran good the one start but now it is def not. Does anyone know what the result is of gapping out the cable from the lid of the carb is? I need to start there.

Whent down 4 sizes and just fouled still

I got the idle very close now. Boggs at 1/4 throttle with to much fuel. Im betting the last time I had the bike together was during winter so that would explain that. Its probably 50 degrees hotter right now. Been so long since i had it in peices painting and such. Its def running rich, new plugs whent back fast during testing. Question, the cable cap added space to the gap, between the top of the cap and the bend. Probably 1/2 inch or close to that. What is the effect of that? What is it causing to happen in my carb? Also no tors 35mm carb keihin, yes to idle screw, its set 1/2 turn out, air screw is 1.75 turn out and idle is fine, up until about 1/4 throttle, bowl is now set to spec, it was quite close but off by a couple hairs. Running same. I think im good now, i believe I just need to rejet because I bet last ride was cold weather and im good up to 1/4 throttle. Any thoughts?

Yes, although I dont have the tool for it I have always set it by sight based on where the spring begins to compress and having the float level at that exact moment. Is that not accurate enough? I noticed that when I put my idle screw all the way in im getting a better idle now. Im guessing that when I put the new cap on and the appropriate cable nuts on top of the cap (that where not there before) it may have changed my idle.. Is this possible?

Just reset float to level, changed C- clip position to 2nd from bottom, worsened the problem, barely ran. ran best at c-clip 2nd from top with idle screw set to working position from previous setup, air screw is set to previous setup aswell that worked before. Everything is the same as it was working previously. except c clip. Should I go for top position. also maybe important to note, changing idle screw setting or air screw setting has no effect on how the bike is running at all.

I will test tomorrow if my c clip location is wrong, I believe I may have mistaken location and whent from 2nd from bottom to 2nd from top. If only I hadnt lost the paper I wrote the setup on.. atlease I kept my air / fuel mix and the idle screw. EDIT: Im thinking c-clip and clumsyness note keeping the notes, at 1/4 throttle I get no response past that. just 1/4 throttle all the time with current float setup.

I did, but my float bowl is too small for my setup, it worked fine before, I just didnt have a huge topend but could still hit 80 in 5th with my gearing. I have tryd setting level to the spring, and it sputters and once in a while takes off for a minute before dieing, then I have maxed it out and it will drive slowly and if you give it gas boggs down as expected. at level I was having these issue stated above.. im dumbfounded. Can needle C clip location cause some of this.

yep, that is it... gotta be, just whent back to my old jet, runs better but sputters and dies, Im guessing I want to make the float higher. Will report results.

Actually may be leaning out? possibly the jet change is the cause, will try this first and post results

just got done putting the shee back together after a full strip and rebuild. Only change was main jet down one size because I was running too rich and c clip down to middle from up one. iddles fine for a bit then runs off and boggs out sounding like it floods itself. I feel like its the c clip position thats doing it, but could it be the needle diameter matched with the 1 size down main jet? but that doesnt make sense to me. Any help greatly appreciated.

Thats the one I want!, thanks dude. Good god and the price is right.