1993_banshee

Thanks for the info guys I don't necessarily have a problem with the way it was built more so checking if something was fucked up. As far as poop design I'd have to give it to the Polaris predator imo

Fairly new to banshees I had mine flipped up on its ass checking for bends and snaps in frame and I noticed both sides near motor mounting area are very different in proportion is that the way they build them from facory? Almost looks bent but not bent haha

Haha you see some funny shit on bhq... break out the snapper!!!!

(Fmf gnarly headers and powercore 2 silencers no airbox with clamp ons stock bore to my knowledge),I currently have a 300 main 30 pilot 3rd or fourth clip down (have slides out now) I live in northeast south dakota not sure of elavation. My plugs are pretty black since it's warmed up and it doesn't feel like I'm getting full potential out of it. What I want to know is would I start with the needle the mains or the pilots?plug chop? Also I did jets when it was like 65 degrees.

Maybe I worded that wrong. Best way I can describe it is when I'm on pavement I am holding the bars straight and it drives to the right hand side. How do you get it very close to straight when the bars are straight and then set the proper to once aligned

what is the proper way to set the toe.from what I read that is lining up the front wheels with the back I have an inch gap because I have a stock axel still. I'm finding it to be a bitch to get straight by eyeball she drags to the right on the pavement a bit

Ok thanks

Hey guys I was looking around, it looks like I see some guys leaving the stock banshee mesh behind the new grill and some dont. Might be a good idea I would think to put mesh behind to add help keeping foreign debris out but is it necessary?

Go back through and check that the bottom ball joint is screwed all the way in on both I thought for sure mine were and I went back and sure as shit they the add on two times more on right and 3 times on the left. They appear to be alot better but still a little off so I called alba themselves talked to Cory (cool guy btw) he told me they all have a little variance and for them both to be a little different from there is ok as long as they are straight.

@Rommel I'm thinking it's a bent spindle too for mine everything Is pointing in that direction.

Yes i do still have the instructions I just like to have a little extra assurance with me doing it myself. I do feel the directions lacked a few of the torque specs needed, but I suppose they can be attained through Internet although I still haven't found any for the ball joint jam nuts and lock nuts. As for threadlocker should i use only on tie rods?? Tomorrow I think I'm gonna go at it and try all of the fine adjusting see how close I can get it dialed in

Is there a good starting point with the bottom arm I screwed them both in all the way and out about a quarter to make them straight with arm (would that mean I need to unscrew it a few turns and leave the other one)? Also Is there a torque spec for the castle nuts on the ball joints? And for the lock nuts on the top arm? Sorry for the lengthy questions this is my first front end I've done

Ok so knowing that is it OK that one side be adjusted differently than the other?

Camber is more on right side tire than the left with 0 adjustment sorry I thought I said that. let me know if those pics help at all and yes I do know they can still be adjusted like this to be straight but I wanna figure out what's bent or if they are just playin tricks or if all quads naturally are a little off

http://s723.photobucket.com/user/icaleb14/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160515_105619.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0

I can get some as soon as photobucket works again. The stock arms were on it before. (Bent to shit ball joints) everything went on pretty smooth didn't have to force anything. So since the right tows in more should I adjust with the non screwing top tie rod or to I go down to the bottom arm and unscrew that one a turn a two.

I installed them with everything loosely in place and very close to even with tie rods and ball joints. The right side tire seems to tilt in more on top. the settings are pretty close on both sides. Maybe a bent spindle? (arms and ball joints are brand new)

Ordered fast racing idle screw like u guys told me too... I will get those done asap. Is there anything else I can do to make sure that overrev in won't happen again. Im hoping it was just cable sticking or something but I definitely don't want it to happen again. Only thing I haven't done yet is a leakdow test

Are the middle facing sides of carbs supposed to be threaded where the idle screw is suppose to go on the other side. The don't go all the way through but the insides are threaded

What your take on all this?

Not that I can see there is some close clearer pics

http://s1064.photobucket.com/user/calebpruitt350/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160415_185829_zpscfmxtyla.jpg.html?sort=3&o=1

Looks like it might have been tapped idk

Kinda dirty was sure what was in there