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barry1me

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Posts posted by barry1me

  1. No wonder sponsors can't get motors back for 6 months. Doesn't anyone put their own shit together anymore? I had never worked on a quad before in my life and i built my 4 mill serv. I just used the walkthrough that bigred posted. It's not rocket science. Use quality parts take your time and clean everything.

    Every builder I talked to told me all the time is in the porting not building the motors.  

  2. OP, you're stubborn af!!

    Cam only charges $250 to assemble and leak test your motor!!

    I got a quote from him to basically build a 4 mil dune port using my entire motor shipped to him and shipped back to me.

    I'm talking new clutch, new billet basket, pancake bearing, mattoon head with 2 sets of domes etc and it was only $2k ready to drop in.

    lol I am stubborn...$250 is ok, but then another $250 for shipping.  He told me $300 to assemble it today.

  3. You'll want to true and weld the stock crank.

     

    The time and money invested in splitting the cases and working on the stock crank could go to a 4mil. There's no way I'd split the cases and not go 4mil.

     

    Get a pro-mod trans as well.

     

     

    ISO purple BHQ hat. Sent from the whoops.

     

    Im trying to keep my cost down now and just do rebuild myself.  I have never rebuilt one, but Im fairly mechanical, I may try and see if someone locally would be willing to give me a hand.  Looks like running a ported stock top end with stock crank unwelded may not be the wisest choice.  If I knew I could make stock crank last 2 seasons (I only plan to go to silver lake to play around 2 times this year), then I would do a 4mm setup or cub setup in 2 years.  Im just trying to make my setup a budget fun build for mean time.  Im not looking to spend $2500 right now.

  4. if you are going to build a 4mil, why half ass it?

     

     

    Also, wouldn't trust HJR.

     

     

    If you want to see what other 4mils can make, check the dyno section.

    Sheerider11 made 80/42.

    http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?/topic/183834-4-mil-stock-cylinder/page-1

     

    JDS made 83/44 and 80/50

    http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?/topic/175499-jdss-redline-4mm-stock-cylinder/page-1

     

    Sandking made 74/43

    http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?/topic/177331-hjr-4-mill-stock-cyl/page-1

     

    Surfrjag made 67/36 (this was race gas, stock airbox, vf4 reeds, stock carbs)

    http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?/topic/169872-4-mil-run/page-1

     

    Zillaguy made 66/37 (stock carbs and vf3 reeds)

    http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?/topic/175247-4-mill-ported-stock-cylinder/page-1

     

    A lot of variation in those dyno number...different dynos, different days, different temperatures, elevation.  Lots of things can affect numbers.  Why do you not trust HJR?  I spoke to him about there crank and he said that Wiseco, HR, Vito, and HJR crank all use the same jap crank with same component manufactures..

  5. Personally I'd pass on hjr. Just preference on my part.

    But the numbers aren't unrealistic.

    I'm at 80hp with a dune port(I guess that's what it would be) 35pwk Vf4 cpi pump gas

     

    I appreciate your advice.  Do you have any specific issue with HJR?  From what I have read there timing is top notch, and stand behind a good name.  Redline looks to be good also if you have 6 months to wait.  I tried calling 10 times in past two days and still havent heard a voice.  Im not willing to work with the guy down the street (RDZ) as there seems to be to much negative stigma surrounding him, and his prices are not inline also.

  6. I am taking my stock 06 SE with Trinity Stage 4s and planning to do a 4mm kit with dune/play port.  Herr said with stock reeds, carbs I would be looking around 70-72hp, if I jump to 35s, pods, timing plate, and race gas I could be in the 85hp range.  I am trying to decide if it worth the extra for me to do this.  Right now I was planning to keep stock swing arm.  I still have tors on my stock carbs.  Just curious who has done this build and if they did stock carb setup and then went to 35s did they think the $800 in additional cost is worth it, or just stick with stock carb setup, no advance timing and pump gas.

     

     

  7. he made mention this was with stock carbs, and didnt mention race fuel.  So I assume pump gas.  Over the phone I was not impressed with his demeanor, I got the feeling that I was more of an annoyance then a customer.  He said he has a 4 month back log on doing engines.  His son does everything minus the porting and if I went that route he could do it in less then a month.  He said his porting doesnt look pretty but no one makes power like he does.  

  8. Im looking to do my first rebuild on my 06 SE.  I spoke to RDZ today and he said that he can do a very useable fun stock bore and stroke build that will make 80hp.  VF4 reeds, his $550 port work, cut head, and timing plate, and CPI pipes.  Im curious if anyone has done this build before, and if so how do you like the power, reliability.  

     

     

  9. ***Update to help others***

    Went with the setting 300 main, 27.5 pilot, Toomey needle 4th clip, Proline Foam-no lid, and back to 14-41 gearing. Still not responsive off idle and trouble pulling sixth, but better !

    Switched to stock needle & bammo.

    I tried every conceivable setup to get those Toomey needles right ( I paid $50 for them & really wanted them to work) but just couldn't get them to work with my relatively stock setup.

    This is the SECOND time I've tried aftermarket needles with poor results.

    Stick with stock needles if you run stock carbs !!

    What needle settings, and elevation are you at?

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