ShrpShooter

If I come from NJ to ride there for the weekend, is there anything special I need to do? Just get a permit and ride? Have T5's on the banshee, do I need spark arresters for the mufflers?

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Hey, Looking for a complete banshee engine to use in my hybrid build. Also looking for a set of garbage cases I can use to mock up my engine mounts. Let me know what you have and how much $$. Thanks!

Looking for a non rusty, clean looking OEM flywheel with ZERO rattle. Let me know what you have! Thanks

Where is this engine located?

HJR bored my cylinders to 65mm for my weisco pistons and dune ported them as well. He sold me a cheap crank that snapped, which I sent back and bought a new hot rods 4mm stroker from FAST. Mine only does it when free revving and coming back down towards an idle at a lower RPM. I haven't noticed anything while riding and the bike hammers. I've heard someone on here say FAST checks every crank they sell so I'd assume it's not my crank being unbalanced.

Mine sounds exactly like this. Brand new +4mm Hot Rods long rod crank from FAST. This guy was saying his crank was out of balance. Better not be my problem with my brand new crank and brand new rebuild. Can a rusty flywheel that was sandblasted to remove the rust cause this much vibration?

Mine has the same rattle and has a fresh bore and brand be set of weiscos from HJR when my port job was done. What could it be with mine? Only does it around an idle but not riding or above idle. Mine doesn't make any noise but does make that slight buzzing raddle when it returns back down to an idle when it's free revving. Should I be concerned? Don't really remember it buzzing/riddling before my 4 mil and other mods.

Very strange, I have the exact same thing going on with my brand new 4 mil stroker. Not sure what's causing it... Everybody seems to say it's normal on the banshee with 4 mil long rod crank. My bore is 65mm and HJR bored them to my weisco pistons. When I first opened it up, my flywheel was rusted to all hell and I had it sandblasted and put it back on with my new build. I'm wondering if the material lost from the rust etc and then sandblasting it threw it all off balance.

The intake I got from HJR looks like the Chariot one, however it didn't come with the 4 gaskets, it doesn't have the O-ring behind the boots, and it doesn't have real Mikuni boots on it. The intake also does not have that horizontal splitter in the middle of each side either.

Well I didn't dunk it in the sink, but passing by quickly I'd expect it to at least show some water resistant properties and cause a little beading at least. I'm sure if I tried this with a real outerwear I'd see something different.

Kevin also just sold me 35mm PWK's for my 4 mil dune port setup. I told him I ride in a lot of fields and love hill climbs so I originally told him I wanted to order 33mm PWK's and he told me to get the 35mm carbs. Curious about where my billet 35mm intakes with built in crossover that I got from him came from, can't find them online anywhere. The boots don't say Mikuni, and they have no o-rings under where the boot meets the intake. My filters don't say K&N and my outerwears say nothing on them. When I ran my outerwear from HJR under my sink quick, it appeared to absorb the water as opposed to beading off and being resistant like I expected... Anybody know where these parts are from?

Well, I didn't ask him to do that, just going to have his crank fixed and maybe build another spare bottom end with it. Purchased a new hot rods +4mm crank last week that will be here tomorrow because I didn't want any more downtime with the engine. Guess I might be waiting anyways now if I get my trans modded.

I did purchase a Hot Rods +4mm crank.

What should I have done to the trans? It's still split right now while I'm waiting for the crank to come back. I looked all of the gears and shift forks over and they all looked good, did a modded shift star, steel idler bushing, and changed all of the transmission bearings while I was in there. What else should I do to the trans? As far as why I bought his +4mm crank, it's because that's what he sold me on the phone and told me he builds them from the same parts all of the other leading manufactures use to build them. I knew he was a reputable shop, so I didn't question it. I was not really active on the forums for a while so if I was I probably would have known to just buy a Hot Rods since that's what everybody uses apparently.

Just pulled it apart, getting good at this now, only took 45 mins haha! Dreading cleaning these damn mating surfaces again.

This is what it looked like when I laid it in the bottom case half.

Hmm... I remember him telling me on the phone that he builds the cranks from the same parts that the rest of the crank manufacturers use.

I do know I shouldn't have laid into the impact gun for as long as I did though, so I'm sure it was my fault either way and not a problem with the crank. Definitely weird how it snapped the crank instead of stripping the threads on ether the crank or flywheel nut first though. Kevin at HJR is awesome though, had my parts out to me right away, answers my texts right back (hope I wasn't annoying him lol), seemed like an all around great person to deal with, and offered to fix my crank for free when I over torqued it.

Hmmm interesting, well... Maybe it wasn't my fault lol who knows, but I should have used my torque wrench and I wouldn't be in this situation. I'll get her torn apart tomorrow, the engine was all done for the most part except for that flywheel nut. FML

It was my fault, not the crank's. I was laying on it for a little too long with a strong impact gun, I expected it to slow up when it was getting snug so I thought it was still pressing the flywheel onto the crank but it just kept spinning. It's a HJR 4 Mil Stroker Crank.

Do you use a 3/8" impact? I used a 1/2" snap on which is stronger than I thought it was. I was waiting to feel it get snug and slow down but it just kept going... Should have just used my torque wrench.

Hey guys! Long time viewer (many years) and have owned about 10 banshees in the past. Yesterday was not a good one for me. I was just finishing up a brand new 4 mil stroker crank/dune port build from HJR that I did from the cases up, when this happened. I normally just use a nice snap on torque wrench to hit the factory spec (which I wish I did this time) but instead, this time around I had the bright idea of using a 1/2" snap on electric impact gun. The results are not pretty and I am very pissed as the engine was 95% finished and passed my leak down test. Kevin at HJR is an amazing vendor and his customer service is awesome... He offered to fix the crank for free for me after my mess up! I'm sure I will go that route but I was just wondering before I tear it down, how many of you have done this and drilled/tapped a hole in the crank to install a bolt to hold the flywheel on? I may try this before tearing it back apart. Just my luck