ClaudeMachining
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Posts posted by ClaudeMachining
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May i ask what's your budget???? Do you have stick A-arms??For my Banshee. Have some extra spare change laying around and want a nice setup.
Was thinking the fox floats up front, and maybe an elka rear?
I'm a bigger guy, bout 250lbs. The floats can be adjusted for my weight by me? What about getting the right size spring fitted for the rear before it's shipped to me?
I like my fox floats rc2 in front 'cause they are light (banshee is nose heavy) and asjustable.
I got an Elka LT setup rear.
Lots of peeps send the rear shock to be "updated" and it works quite well too.
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Dont be shy to do it the right way.Im anal about every thing. But because i built this from the ground i followed the book to the T on torque specs. Hell i even put clear 3m chip guard on all places on the frame where a bolt makes contact or a zip tie holds a wire just so it dosnt rub through the paint.. yes i am being serious
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I like goats.In response to a great question by RagunCajun I thought I'd throw out some trans info including various shifting problems and fixes I've had over the years.
His quote "please report back once the pro mod is in. I went from an override to pro mod so I don't know how much better a pro mod is over stock."
I'm the odd man out here running airshifted auto 1-4 m5&6 overrides (asphalt) but my son runs 6 speed promods for dirt drags, asphalt and secondary road riding which is legal here in Ohio.
My overrides require ignition kill to shift into the non-cut 5th and 6th gears. Without unloading the tranny gear pressure no upshift will happen.
My son ran stock trannies for years before upgrading to promods. When it comes to making super-fast "fan the clutch" type shifts his promods are without a doubt easier and far more reliable in making constant shifts over his OEM's but other than that situation I personally don't feel a promod has a great advantage...
With regards to the following keep in mind that the troubles we ran into over the years were under race, wide open throttle type conditions/situations:
The FIRST thing either of us will do when we run into missed quick shift situations at the track is change the oil. When the oil gets contaminated with clutch material it seems to cause problems with the smooth sliding internals when under pressure. I especially have to watch this in my asphalt Banshee's with multi-stage clutches which slip out of the hole because clutch material sheds off so much faster than usual. *Something I started doing long ago - Because of the contamination I drain the trans at the end of each race day and filter it through a fine paint strainer then let it sit for months to completely settle anything out. When I fill my tranny I use 1 litre of fresh new oil and top off with the strained.
As far as transmission mechanical stuff goes:
I'd say for sure that one of the most important adjustments to check if you're having problems is the shift/change lever but make certain that all the individual components are good and within spec because it isn't normal for that adjustment to change to the point of causing shifting trouble unless something is broken or heavily worn.
A couple of weak links in Banshee transmissions are (1st) OEM second gears can be broke even with small motors. Be there done that in as small as a 358 cub. Robison billets are great imo and I'll leave it at that... (2nd) 3rd wheel gear has a very narrow area that rides on the splined output shaft and once galled shifting nightmares occur. I recommend Molly paste on assembly. A tube will last you forever. Moroso 35000 Moroso Moly Paste Assembly Lubes | Summit Racing
Long winded for sure and I don't want to come off as a know it all because I'm still learning with these things. Just hoping that someone might pickup some useful information on my first hand experiences and maybe spark some interest back at the HQ!!
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Easier to setup, round carrier....It really sucks when you stretch the bike and it wont hook for crap and handles worse. It also takes up more space in the shed and truck bed which I also didn't care for.
So are you going to spend $900+ on a fireball arm the same length as stock just for looks?
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I run -1 on my SS.
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Float the ground (there is youtube vids on it) and buy a cheap ac/dc 1wv converter/rectifier (about 10$) and that all about it.Who makes the best (complete) DC conversion kit?
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when doing my build last winter i skipped the swing arm and just had the oem powdered to match my build. this winter i want to put a +2 round carrior on. there are many options out there, curious what you guys recommend. fireball seems to be the best from my searching. looked at the one fast offers and steller, by time you add the carrior brake bracket and powder your close to the price of fireballs swingarm. want one with skid plate brackets and chain guide brackets, mostly seasonal rd and trails no major jumping.
I'm using a -1 FireballRacing swing arm and i have nothing bad to say about it and it looks good.
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Your tank need to "breathe", it need a hole somewhere, wich is your little cap.Won't the tank create a vacuum?
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That's a good start!!!!
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??im considering running av 100ll. soly for the purpose it lasts longer.
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5hp.
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And you can go 5mill without trenching iirc.
Caleb90's infos are all the way wrong.
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At that time, i was riding fast open trails, you may begin with the LP, make it ported and you will have room to make it "cub like" later if it doesnt suit your riding style.Why kind of riding did you do. Do you think that set up with the 35 pwk’s will achieve what I want? No clutch work in first and some clutch work in second?
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Good setup, i used it with 35mm pwk, same pipe.Thank you! I am thinking of going with the driveline HP assassins with sniper pipes. I’m looking for good top end but I normally do tree shots. I read the assassin HP is in between the cub and serval port wise. Any input on a good setup for what I need. I don’t do much trail riding and don’t mind clutch work in 2nd gear but would like as little to no clutch work in first. Any input is appreciated. Thanks!
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How are you experienced setuping a new engine??
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^^This.Engine ice is over priced over rated .
If you need any other stuff than normal 50/50 coolant, you got a problem.
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Now, all you need is this and a little capacitor if you dont want the flickering.
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Mine.
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South texas banshee did 2-3 videos on testing your electrical stuff.
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I'm looking for a good oem banshee coil.
Thx!!
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Use the same ratio it was jetted for.will it affect my banshee if I used 25 liters to 2 ratio?
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I'm using Mull's one for 4 years, everything is good so far.
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???
Anybody do any of the fixes for this "new" update
I found a fix to put windows back to cascade, but it has a BIG warning so...somebody else do it 1st
Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk
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If you want a better, stronger and smoother system, do it.
Food for taugh: why do you think Yamaha upgraded the front brakes system on the YFZ if the Banshee's one was that good??
;-)
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Fox Floats and what rear shock?
in Suspension
Posted
Then go floats rc2 and full Elka rear setup.
Yes, they will ask for weight and type of riding.
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