bmccormick08

You have to email them. Go to the contact page and get the address. It's [email protected], tell them the parts you need and they'll send you an invoice. I've bought many parts from Jeff and never had an issue. Awesome company.

More or less just that 35mms would be better all around carbs for trail riding and racing but a 39 setup would be better suited for drag racing only. All my parts came from Kevin, Cascade OR Jeff at fast. I'm not afraid to pay for quality and I really do love how my bike rides and runs. Most fun I've ever had on any atv

Just telling you what he said. I was going to run stocks, but after talking with some others about it the concensus was, bigger carbs. I asked Kevin what he thought and he advised the larger carbs and told me what was better for general riding vs racing. The filters and wears are from Cascade, they are in fact real.

We discussed my engine and my plans, which is a little bit of everything. I trail ride but I also do some dirt drags with it, and it was based on the other mods I had done. I also asked on bhq and got very similar answers regarding size of carb to run. A local builder and ex banshee racer said the same. Bigger carbs ftw. I was told I could go as big as 39mm if i was drag racing only

I just built a 4mil, HJR ported, pump gas. The following set me back over 2k.... Port work Crank Pistons Noss Coolhead Chariot cages Chariot intakes 35mm pwks and filters Billet basket, new clutch and Toomey clutch Springs Oversized radiator and billet pump Not to mention my previous mods like pipes, timing plate, etc.

I have a HJR 4mil with the MX hardcore. He recommended 35pwks with the other work I had done on mine. I recently got them dialed and man does she move out. Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

To answer though, currently at 152 mains, cel needles on middle clip Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

Found the issue. Ground wire on the cdi again. Going to have to order a replacement. Previous owner hacked this shit up. Thought I had it fixed Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

I'm sea level, 35mm pwks, 50 pilots. About how many turns out should my air screw be? Is it still 1-2.5? Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

I think this coil might be the cause. Going to try stock again Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

Ended up holding for 17 minutes before I let it off and started assembly. Now it's backfiring when it comes off idle. It looks like it's backfiring left pipe, right pipe, left again etc. Might be way rich but I backed the air screws out half a turn at a time and it still does it Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

Well guys the O-rings came today, got the head on and it passed the leak down with flying colors. Needle never budged. I was in a rush when it got built and admit it was a bad situation but it's been corrected, almost 10 minutes later she's still holding! I'm very happy Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

The cylinders are oily, they look fine. Doesn't look like it burned any of the coolant. I used a little grease to hold the Rings in place but I will use Vaseline next time. All I can think of is they came loose when I worked it down over the studs. We found the burn spot on each o ring where it appears it got pinched between the head and jug Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

Will do. I assume this was the whole issue. There was an overheating issue that led us to pulling the head off tonight. It only had a day of riding on it between being built and now. So nothing damaged or torn up. No wonder my soap and water didn't show me any leaks lesson learned though. It will pass a 6 minute test before it runs again even if this isn't 100% the issue and I have to pull it again. I was in a pinch to get it running for a big ride last weekend and did the best I could in the time I had Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

So I'm guessing a fresh set of our rings, new crush washers and leak test again? Makes sense why the leak was so slow if this is the case Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

So my brother came by today and we got to talking about the engine. Pulled the head and think we found my leak.... Looks like the one rings shifted on the domes on install and let the coolant leak past.

That's just what I found, on here. I really think my tester is the issue. The gauge does eventually fall to 0 but when I depress the Schrader valve I get a fair amount of air out of it. As far as my bike running, it was a broken ground wire on the cdi. Once found and fixed it fired up on the first kick. Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

No rattle sir. And I've already lightly sanded the inner drum and the pickup points. Which did not help. I think it's the stator as well Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

That's what I don't get. My ignition was all stock before the engine build. It is still all stock. I bought the dyna coil but chose to start it on the oem coil since I new it was good and worked fine. But the factory coil is failing me now and the dyna starts it first kick. So I have to assume the coil is good. I need to get home and start checking resistances Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

I tried setting it back to 0, no change. The domes were cut by Kevin for pump gas. Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

This is what it does. It won't rev, just backfire. This is using the dyna coil. Timing back at 0 stock cdi https://vimeo.com/136154621 Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

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No no no. Dyna COIL not a full dynatek ignition Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

Cdi is stock, stock coil is still on the bike. No fire with the stock coil at all. Has spark but won't start the bike. Dyna coil swapped in for stock and it fires right up but runs terrible Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk