justsmith94

Prices?

Need some front shocks! Color dont matter! Just trying to get another bike together!

Im on board for some heel guards. Something that looks like stock, but doesnt break so easily. The trails here in PA are really rough. Im on my 3rd pair of stock heel guards because of them breaking where they mount to the foot peg bars.

Bump! Got an airbox. But still cant find a yellow rad cover or uncut grey front plastics! Someones gotta have some to spare!

Just bought the pro flow kit! My current airbox is all cut and drilled to fuck from the previous owner.

Someones gotta have a nice clean yellow radiator cover and airbox!!

You dont have engine oil. That dip stick is for the clutch and trans

Yellow radiator cover Stock airbox, must be CLEAN! no lid needed Uncut grey front plastics More parts will be needed as refresh continues.

Have the studs for the pro design cool head?

I would really like to say that is enough time, but i dont want to have to settle for less. I keep leaning towards a motorcycle battery. Like the small one in my old drz400.

The stock lights arent bad for what im doing, just the way that if im not WFO they are too dim to see. I was thinking along the same lines of what you did. Only i was going to use like a rechargeable r/c truck pack. But i just dont know how long it would last. My second thought, was a motorcycle battery. But would it last being drained and recharged several times?

Bump. Anyone?

Im wondering if anyone has ever ran a battery on their shee specifically to run the headlights? I didnt really want to mess with the stator for charging. I was thinking more like leave it hooked to my battery tender for charging when not in use. What would be the best way to go about running the headlights on their own circuit? I want to use stock headlights, maybe led bulbs or something brighter. Anything is better than stock where you can only see when you have it WFO! Its just a trail quad, and the lights would be used just to get me back to my truck after a full day of riding. So the lights would have to last a minimum of 2hrs. THANKS FOR ANY HELP!!

Im wondering if anyone has ever ran a battery on their shee specifically to run the headlights? I didnt really want to mess with the stator for charging. I was thinking more like leave it hooked to my battery tender for charging when not in use. What would be the best way to go about running the headlights on their own circuit? I want to use stock headlights, maybe led bulbs or something brighter. Anything is better than stock where you can only see when you have it WFO! Its just a trail quad, and the lights would be used just to get me back to my truck after a full day of riding. So the lights would have to last a minimum of 2hrs. THANKS FOR ANY HELP!!

Its very expensive to chrome! Where i work we do chrome, nickel, and copper plating. Our chrome tank has a fume scrubber. Its insane how strict they are. The company just did away with the chroming process these past few months. The chromic acid had to be extremely deluded before anyone would haul it. I believe the disposal cost for acid and contaminated equipment was $300k

Im in need of some +2 front brake lines!

I have a setup almost like what you are building. Hot rods welded 4mil long rod crank Hjr 4mil dune port cylinders 21cc domes Timing at +4 Vforce 4 reeds Pwk28 carbs Open airbox with pro flow filter Barnett basket Barnett clutch with HD springs billit water pump Pro circuit pipes It has been an awesome performing and outstandingly reliable engine. It has a ton of hours on it, so i just rebuilt it, new clutch, etc etc. I would highly recommend going with a stroker build. Once you have a 4 mil, if you decide you want more power and want a cub or serval, youll already have the crank!!

I really want that 6 pack rack!!

Just ordered new barnett billit clutch basket, barnett dirt digger clutch with hd springs, and a hinson pressure plate!

While i wait to decide if im changing my top end, im looking for some other input! When looking at lockups, i see a direct drive lockup and cover, and i see a slingshot lockup that fits under the stock cover. Is there a difference between the two, other than one needs a extended cover?

I have +2+1 a arms, stock length round style swingarm, durablue axle and elka stage 3 shocks all the way around!

I understand your reasoning. It does run extremely well for the riding that i do. My reasons why i wanted a serval was for the low end power, having the ability to make more power (if i wanted more) with porting. Any clutch, trans, pipe changes that should be made if i decided to stay stock cylinder? Vs going serval?

Whats your reasoning behind this?

Who are some popular builders that build more trail friendly engines?