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Posts posted by RIPPIN' IT UP
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Reading the books well give you a better understanding of the software.
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Is it both carbs? What kit did you use to rebuild them?
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Might cause issues but carbs flooding isn't one of them.
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If there are no large chunks in there it should be right, having fine stuff is pretty normal, if there is a build up of fine, means either the oil has not been changed in a while or it in the early stages of something on its way out.
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Are you referring to the tell tale hole in the middle of the pic?
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Price drop to $400 & I'll throw in express shipping.
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Have you checked the condition of your reeds while the carbs have been off?
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Yes your right sheerider11, just checked the manual & it's 20-22mm or .80-.88in. Must have gotten confused with another carb. Thank you for pointing that out.16?? That doesn't sound right.
I believe the Clymers says 20-22 or in that area
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Jetting here is not the issue, there is only 2 things that controls the level of fuel in the bowl & that's the float valve & float. Something is not right, adjustment height should be 16mm or 5/8 of an inch, either floats have moisture in them or have a tight spot not allowing the valve to close fully, faulty valves, some crap stuck in the seat not letting the valve seal properly. What ever it is that where I would be looking.
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Power would only be affected if the silencer was blocked up. Could be the reason for the said hole.
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Made in China vs made in the USA, I know which one I support & if it makes me a dumb bastard, then I guess I am.
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^^exactly can you buy customer service & knowledge off eBay?
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Post link.
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That 30 pilot might be a bit big until you put the vforce 4 reeds in.
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Are the slides in the right way?
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Only some can be found cheaper, what bout the rest?
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Well when you swapped plug wires & it made no difference, then I would be looking for a leak on the on intake. Start it up & while it's running spray some brake or carb cleaner around the intake boots & take note if it changes the engine it's idle.Man I know how it sounds, but like I said when I took the plug out and tried to see a spark I couldn't.. is there a different way to test?
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Almost positive that there is no spark on the right, plus you swapped plug wires & makes no difference. Something isn't adding up here.
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Just jam plenty of rags around & over the crankshaft, don't want a single welding spark in there.
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Got a welder?
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Ring life gonna be pretty short with that wider exhaust port, still worth doing if in good condition though & it's what your looking for.
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Water in the stator as well as the carbs will make it go feral. Since the electrical system checks out spec wise. I would go back and make sure there's no water in the carbs.
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When you say sucking water, do you get water in your intake?I should take stock in NGK, so far I've changed them 10+ times this summer before every race, and mid race if I end up sucking water at a creek section...
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Carbs flood out when bike is warmed up
in General Banshee Discussion
Posted
I put my money on the kit float valve being junk.
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