RIPPIN' IT UP
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Posts posted by RIPPIN' IT UP
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Fair enough
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Do you have some kind lock nut or method to stop unwanted adjustment? Cool idea though.I've made an "on-the-go" adjustable rear link. It's still a prototype but i'll make another one with solid bar stock machined with cnc to avoid welding...
Threaded rod is 3/4" and bar stock's 1"*1" MIG welded.
I tested it on my dirt drag, asphalt drag and trail banshees and it's bullet proof.
No need to change your shock length anymore and no need to switch the hole positionning on your drop bar.
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Got the modified shock in ended up changing the seal head set up for the gas chamber, so far all seems good, try take it out for a ride & put it to the test.
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Yeah pretty much, plan to use nitrogen for the inert gas, cause if my calculations are correct at full travel the pressure will be close to 600psi.
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Few more better pictures then the first one.
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Just for a project been experimenting with an old banshee rear shock to see if I could get one to operate using an inert gas as a spring medium in place of the coil. From calculations pressures will get quite high at close to bottoming out but nothing to serious. Some minor testing in a jig with a lower pressure seems to show promise.
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Only way to check if the seal is good or not is to do a leak down test.
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Seen damage before like that in an engine, sounded like a midget with a hammer was inside trying to get out.
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Would have been making some rattly knocking noises before it stopped.
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Sorry, yeah was looking at the pictures pretty late at night, but most likely a ring got snagged in the port.I am not seeing any hole melted into the piston. And normally this is in the center of the piston.
This damage is a piece of the edge cracking off.
Is there any damage to the walls?
Wonder if some detonation happened, caused the ring to turn and catch a port.
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To melt a hole in the piston I would say lean condition, which in severe cases where the plug & cylinder gets that hot leads to detonation.
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2017?
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Okay, I had mine do a similar thing but only at idle & when I reved it up, it done that back fire blowing thing out the exhaust. Water had gotten in when washing & blocked the pilot jet. You said yours was clean, make sure the venturi isn't blocked or restricted either. I cleared it by revving it up & sticking my hand over the right side carby, sucking the water through.I'm on my third set, just to be sure lol
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New plugs?
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Try going up to a 30 pilot,
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When is this cylinder barely firing, at idle, mid or high rpm'sI was able to get carb cleaner through it though? When I take it off again ill try cleaning it out again
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Blocked pilot jet.
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Choke hose connected?
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Had a 27.5 pilots with vforce 4 reeds, it is to small, it would just run with the air screw out at one turn & it took a fair few kicks to start. Run the 30 pilots, I have a pair I could send you, from Far North Queensland, depends on how soon you need em.Will go to the store and see if they have any tomorrow.
I don't see how that could be the problem if it's run fine on 27.5's before at equivalent temps and altitudes.
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My bad missed the new harness bit, none the less the loose stator bolt will not help. Has there been any rubbing on the stator.
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Tors removed or still connected? Kill switch, ignition key bypassed, wiring harness modified? Info that needs to be shared before help can be given.
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50:1 Silkolene Pro 2, was running that at 125hrs on the original engine, never faulted, rebuilt the top end, checked in the crank case still ample oil left in there, ran the new top end never changed a thing.
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Both sides or one?another point, it's been smoking out the exhaust a little more than it used to.
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Ok so was running fine then started doing this?
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Rear link prototype
in Suspension
Posted
Haha nice
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