1999shee

Hey Guys, looking for a straight frame for a new build, must have clean title/ownership let me know what you have. ship to Postal L1N 5X6

She's back in business Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk

Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk

Almost back together Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk

Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk

Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk

Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk

Had to split the Case and tear everything out Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk

Arm.is true and straight no spider cracks on anything. Just going home now to see if I can get it adjusted properly Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk

Just had the same thing happen.(just putting mine back together) your actuator wont come out because the push rod has mushroomed at the end and is blocking the actuator from coming out ....sorry to say but ur gonna have to pull it out and split the cases ..That's the only way to get that rod out. YES PUT THE PANCAKE BEARING IN ! My bearing was welded to the adjuster and the rod was mushroomed and welded to the actuator. Not sure how u did yours but I let someone ride mine that did not know how to ride a clutch and shift gears properly so he either didn't shift at all or held the clutch in all the time and it seized it. Good luck !

Anyone know what size the pressure plate bolts are? (hold the springs in) ....one snapped off in the clutch boss FML .....

okay update time... ended up having to do a complete tear down to just the cases. throw rod was welded to the actuator as well and mushroomed over the end of the shaft . Well that's all fixed and back together.....now having an issue with the pancake bearing (cascade)....so actuator is in when I properly adjust the clutch so the two arrows are lined up its pushing the pressure plate out too far ...and the actual adjustment screw Is too short and the jam nut wont go on. anyone herd of that pressure plate doing that ? when its properly adjusted its like 1/4 inch gap from the pressure plate and clutch boss

yeah, Im just waiting on my flywheel puller so I can split the cases,.....sheeee be seized solid !!!!!

how am I supposed to get push rod out of the shaft when its welded to the actuator that is seized ......

well update for this morning , striped the clutch side off , ball is welded to the adjuster and seems like the rod is welded to the actuator I have to order a flywheel puller and split the case ....FML

I ment it will lift a bit off the case. this baby is solid as a rock, will pull apart the clutch side tonight and see what im working with

id have to see a picture of this ratchet strap contraption . nto saying it wouldn't work , just need a visual ...

nope will not budge to the left or right (as if u were pulling the clutch lever) or up or down. it should jus pull right out. The person that did it held it in first gear to the bar........this is the result. ive never seen it but could the push rod be welded to the actuator arm ?

I agree with you. I will strip it right down bare. prob wont be the last question for you guys. I Know 2 strokes but have never had to split the case ....so always a first time for everything.

I should clarify splitting the case upside down without disrupting the top end.

I've herd this can be done upside down ????....is this a banshee myth or any truth to it ?

Am I going to have to split the case to get it out ?

Ill pull it apart tonight and see what the damage is . ty

yeah I hear ya, Ive never seen one seized open before. The actuator arm is seized solid it should just lift out when retainer plate removed. Its OEM

Well guys just looking for your experience. Created the problem myself by allowing an inexperienced rider ride the shee. (wont happen again) besides the point. clutch actuator arm is seized in the open position as if you were pulling the clutch lever.What is everyone thoughs? clutch plates melted together ? ball welded to rod ? before I rip it apart tonight just looking for some opinions.