jacowils

Just starting to put everything back together for my rebuild and this may not of been hooked up to anything before but i cant seem to remember and this is the only thing im not sure where it goes so if you can identify this connection i would appreciate it.

Gotcha, havent had problems with my tors yet.. Knock on wood lol but id rather do it right with the kit when the time comes

Ok so most guys on here say to run the tors removal kit, but my question is can you unhook all of the tors connections and run it in this manner without buying the kit with a new cable and tops or will this not work? I am wondering this because i want to not have to worry about the tors giving me problems in the upcoming riding season and i do not want to purchase a kit just yet, thanks.

Lol a clint "beast" wood! What a jackass! But thank you for yet another ignorant post

Forgive me i forgot to mention the whole bottom end is still together im just rebuilding the top end

Im having a hell of a time getting these old dowels out. Ive bent them to hell trying a bunch of crap but have gotten no where. Any suggestions and or tricks would be greatly appreciated so i can put my damn engine together!

Where could i get a leak down tester? Im sure this is better than the old school starter fluid way

Obviously. I wasn't referring to a leak down test i was referring to spraying my possible leak points with starter fluid and listening to the engine to find the possible leaks just like with a tire.

Well imo the assembly is fairly simple as i have a clymers manual that explains proper top end assembly and torque specs etc.. But as for checking for an air leak will be the first priority when i do the first heat cycle. Im taking proper care to clean everything thouroghly to get proper seals in all the necessary places and after reading about jetting and fine tuning all my jetting along with cleaning the carbs i think i am pretty much all set in that regards. I am running the main one size fatter than recomendations to ensure i am not lean like i was when i initially blew it up. I have knowledge in tuning and checking for air leaks but as for breaking in a top end im a newb. Just wanted to clarify i wasnt over looking tuning or air leaks at all those were the first thinga i did research on and fined tuned.

I planned on doing a few heat cylces and then breaking it in hard. Done alot of reading on the motoman hard break in and thats pretty much what most of you suggested as well. I'll stick with my klotz technicplate for break in because thats what i have ran and always will run. As for the type of hone that is being done on my cynliders i am not entirely sure but it is being done by jeff at f.a.s.t. So im sure it will be a quality job and he will have some input on this subject too. Thanks for all of your input and experience on this subject as this will be my first engine break in and i want to get a lot of life out of my engine as do most people.

Well i talked to the tech guy at klotz and he suggested to run the Benol oil for the break in.. Yay or nay? And then switch back to the oil i usually run

Will be breaking my top end in pretty soon and have read synthetic oils are too slippery for break in. I always run klotz high performance synthetic premix in my shee. So what should i use for my break in? Thanks

Yep i already cleaned those bad boys out and yes i still have tors

I already swapped out the stock pilots for 27.5's and put the needle on the 4th clip. I just went nuts i guess and bought too many sizes but oh well there only a couple bucks a piece. Im think i should be safe with some 320's for the break in until i can do a plug chop, but i also dont wanna gunk it up so the rings dont seat properly.. And im in flushing located about 20 mins west of flint

The shitty design of how the stock filter is "supposed" to seal up to the air box failed.. It ran great for a little while then just lost all power and i took the seat off and looked at the air filter and it completely came undone and the motor was sucking ungodly amount of air with the stock jets of course. Started the tear down about an hour later.

The difficult part is trying to decide where to safely start in regards to my main jet size once its all put back together becuase it has alot more done to it with nothing to go off of other than suggestions seeing as how it was bone stock when i blew it up

Blew it up a few months ago and decided to add some much needed mods

No port work. Elevation is 700ft above sea level. And read it a again it says its already below 40 NOT 40 below.. .030 over wisecos K & n pods Boyesen reeds Wkr head with 21cc domes Fmf fattys with turbinecore silencers I have already swapped my stock pilots out for 27.5's and put my needles on the 4th clip. Had suggestions from 290-320's and that was in 80 degree weather and its now in the 30's so i ordered 320's-350's today seeing as how i will have to go bigger to comphensate for the cold. I am just not sure how much bigger to be very close to be able to break the engine in properly before i can do a plug chop.

Being close on the jetting may be a little difficult seeing as how im going from a bone stocker to a mid-modified shee and not to mention its already down to below 40 degrees here in michigan. I bought 290's thru 350's for mains so i have a bunch to choose from. This could get tricky becuase i have to do the heat cycles before i can do a WOT plug chop correct?

I have read some people mix there gas and oil with more oil for break in and and ive also read not to do that becuase the more oil will result in a lean condition for the fuel since the mixture has more oil in it. Any insight into this would be great. I want to make sure the break in is done properly to avoid toasting my new top end, thanks.

Just spoke with dave at noss per one of your guys suggestion and he said he usually recommends 21cc domes for pump gas at see level. I told him my mods and he said im right about where i should be, so he said i should be fine on pump gas at 700ft above sea level

My cylinders are at his shop as we speak. Jeffs a great guy and does great work.

Would you guys recommend me getting a play/dune port with my shee? How well will it pair with fmf fatty's, boyesen power reeds, .030 over with wisecos, and my cool head with 21cc domes. Deal fell thru with some dmc's so i picked up a pair of fattys and silencers for dirt cheap. Or would a trail port be better with fattys?

Now that i have my 21's the question is how close am i going to be? Going off the noss chart it would be about 147-148 which is pretty close, but those estimates are based on a stock bore which mine is .030 over not .020 sorry for the typo, but im not sure how much that will raise the compression.

It was a mistake on the machinists part and i sent them back and they had him specially make me 21's and just shipped them out to me today so it was resolved. They are good guys over at white knuckle