jacowils

Yes the bolts are the same size i measured them, and it could be an optical illusion becuase it looks fairly straight to me i just want it perfect to avoid premature sprocket wear. Should i trust the bolts and just eye the sprocket and if it looks good roll with it? Thats basically what my clymers manual says to do

I have an 87 with the 4 bolts to losen on the carrier. I wanted to tighnten my new chain up so i did and the chain adjuster bolts show the exact same number of threads becuase i adjusted them together but it still seems as if the axle isnt aligned properly how can this be?

I need a complete set of sand paddles on rims for a dune trip, not looking for anything too outrageous just a decent set of paddles, thanks

Forgot to mention I'm at 700 ft above sea level and temps right around 75 degrees, also stock carbs, thanks.

I currently have a fresh top end that im going to break in tomorrow and right now i am running 320 mains, 27.5 pilots, the air screw 2 turns out and the needle on the 4th clip from the top. I want to make sure im rich enough while breaking in the top end so that once ive ran through an entire tank of gas for the break in procedure that jeff from FAST has instructed me to do i can do a plug chop to get it just right, again i just want to be on the safe side for the break in. My mods include .030 over with wisecos, fmf fattys with turbinecore silencers, boyesen power reeds, and k&n pods.

ok should i stay with the stock swingarm or should i go AM at stock length

Well I have boyesen power reeds, k&n pods, fmf fattys with turbinecores, and shes bored 30 over with wisecos

I ride mostly trails with some mx and the dunes a few times a summer, should i stay with the stock swing arm or should i go longer if so how much? Just looking for something that's going to yield all around a good results from the trails to the dunes, thanks

That seems to be what i hear! There seems to be limited options for extended J arms as opposed to extended A arms, and fireball is one of the few that makes these. Thanks for the input!

Any one have these on there shee or know if theyre any good? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Banshee-J-Arms-/161270060381?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item258c71d55d&vxp=mtr

I will trim the wires and remove the filters are try that and see what happens. Could this be a possible stator issue? When i intially blew it up last summer i had assumed the misfire before i rebuilt the top end was due to there being only 60 psi in the left hole and 90 in the right, but now since the problem has persisted with a fresh top end its leading me to beleive this problem occured before i rebuilt the top end and has nothing to do with the actual internal engine at all and maybe an external source such as a spark issue. Am i right in assuming this or should i reevaluate the situation

And yes the float bowls are on the correct side and the choke tube is in

Stock carbs no air box, brand new freshly oiled k&n filters with outerwears

What im trying to say is when i have the left spark plug wire/boot hooked up to the left cylinder and the right spark plug wire hooked up to the right cylinder (how its supposed to be) the left cylinder misses. But when i hook the left spark plug wire/boot to the right cylinder and the right spark plug wire/boot to the left cylinder the right cylinder misses. It does this no matter which of the two coils i use. And also bogs out when i give it throttle but will idle fine minus the fact that one cylinder is missing

Just to clarify i have two separate coils with wire attached i didn't cut and reattach wires i just pulled the whole coil wires and all out and put the other one in to see if that whole unit was bad and had the same result. I just pulled the boots off the spark plugs and switched them and the left fired and right missed, hope this clarifies my previous wording

No i swapped coils and had the same result but when i just switched the wires to the opposite spark plug the left cylinder fired and the right was missing, it did that with both coils and no i have no checked the stator yet. Im not sure this still explains the bogging when i give it throttle

I checked the intake boots really good before installing them and they were good. I guess i may have possibly cracked it when tightening the clamp down to secure the carb to the boot? it I also didn't have the crossover tube all the way down into the boot and i secured it and clamped it and i was still missing. The weirdest part of all is when i tried both coils i had the same result but when i switched the spark plugs boots the left side was firing but it was still boggy when i gave it a little throttle, this may be partly due to the fact that its 27 degrees in my garage this morning in the middle of a michigan weather so clearly it wasn't warmed up.

Also brand new pilot and main jets so i doubt its that but i could be wrong. Cleaned them before i put them back on.

After a long few hours of troubleshooting i cant seem to figure out whats causing the left cylinder to miss. Double and triple checked everthing seemingly.. and i am just stumped at this point. The only thing is when i give it a little throttle it bogs down big time but its only the left cylinder.. And yes i checked it has spark and i put on two perfectly funtional coils with the same result. Any help would be much appreciated, thanks

To clarify to all that thought i was bad mouthing jeff at fast this had nothing to do with him personally or his shop i just thought that all top end kits should come with wrist pin bearings if it comes with wrist pins dont you? Me being heated and ranting was aimed at wiseco for not making those standard with all their kits again nothing to do with jeff at fast he is a great guy and has helped me out tons i have nothing but great things to say about him and his work so please do not bother him with texts and calls saying i am bad mouthing him it was simple venting is all. I was very excited to put my top end together and once i realized i didnt have one little but neccesary thing i was mad. So please let this be the end of it all is well. Again my apologies if i offended anyone not my intent i was just being impulsive when i was mad is all a simple mis understanding.

Excuse how i came off but i should have been more clear with my explanation by rod bearing i meant upper rod bearing/wrist pin bearing. Anyways ive never not gotten wrist pin bearings in any of the top ends ive rebuilt so mayne you can understand my frustration but i am fucking pissed at the moment

Oh i dont fucking know becuase theres an upper and a lower connecting rod bearing? Clearly im reffering to upper rod bearing also known as the wrist pin bearing seeing as how im rebuilding the top end not the bottom end.. Jesus so your telling me when you order a piston kit you expect to not get an upper rod bearing aka wrist pin bearing? I dont fucking think so.

Not going to risk anything. I just find this very irritatating that it didnt come with rod bearings..

Ready to put the new top end in my shee and i got everything from fast racing and aparently my piston kit didnt come with new rod bearings? Never even heard of this and i still have my other ones can i use these or should i not?

Thank you sir