00_Shee

lol you're right, but i may just wait until i need to do the top-end or something before I open her up. Its running pretty good. My luck i'll screw something up. I'm living in a new city and only have a weekend or 2 a month to ride or work on it. I'm even reluctant to remove the damn carbs, they're junk ass Okos and i can't find a rebuild kit other than from Tiawan on ebay. One carb is leaking VERY slightly through the gaskets where the bowel meets the body. After i ride and let it sit, it will have a little bit of oily-gas residue at the seam and if it sits for days the carb will be oily down on the side of the bowel.

Yea, I figured I didnt really need it once i did the compression test. My guess is that my domes are 23cc now. Seems like the cool heads are just pretty pieces right now since the mods i have dont really warrant the NEED for them.

My guess is that it has stock or near stock size domes. Compression test was 125-130psi at +1,300 ft elevation. But what's weird is the guy I bought it from said all he ran in it was Turbo Blue, but that could be him blowing some smoke up my... he's a quad mechanic at a performance/repair shop and said raced this thing in GNCC for a short period of time and said it's "trail" ported to give it more down low and not as much hit up top. Which that IS how it runs, its got pretty good low end compared to other banshee's I've rode and when you get on the pipe it isn't such a drastic hit of power. He gave me the impression that he ported it himself, so who knows really what the hell its got going on in there as far as "porting". I've been running a blend of 93 and Turbo blue and 32:1 (fuel blend: I fill a 5 gallon jug with 3 gallons of 93 and 2 gallons of turbo blue) . I'd get pods, but I forgot to add that its got a Pro Design filter and I run it with the airbox lid off. I appreciate all the replys, I'm looking to do another small upgrade/ weekend-project type of thing, that isn't too expensive. Another quick question, I just did the +4 timing advance over the winter and I'm now living +2,500 ft elevation. I was running slightly rich, will I need to re-jet ? I'm going to have to at least clean these junky Okos, its taking 10-20 kicks to start now, but runs fine once it starts. No clue what size jets its got in it now.

Getting the itch to mod. I have a lightly modded shee I picked up last year. Its got FMF fattys, VF3 reeds, trail ported, +4 timing, 30mm carbs, cool heads, stock bore/stroke hot rod crank. Looking to do something small, like domes. Anyone suggestion dropping to say 21cc domes. Where will I notice gains with the higher compression? I ride trails mostly, but do have lots of open land as well. Yay or nay is it worth the effort? pros and cons?

Pretty sure stock domes; when I checked compression it read ~125-130 each side.

Do you guys think advancing my timing 4 degrees would be worth the effort with the little bit of mods I currently have : bored .30 over, cool heads, oversized rad, 30mm carbs, "trail porting" , VF3 reeds, FMF pipes and silencers. Plus I think it's got a hotrod crank and weiscos(not that they do anything for power).. I ride mostly trails that are hill climbs and small straight stretches. Which to me, a little more low end sounds good. Just curious of your guys thoughts, sry to thread jack OP.

Seems to be running good again for now. I rewired the harness and freshened up the spark plug wires connections. Hopefully this was the solution. Only had time to run it for about 10 mins, but it ran flawlessly once again. Not sure about the ignition coil resistance numbers I was getting? O well. Thanks for all the suggestions guys. This forum has helped out a lot in the little time I've been apart of it.

Has anyone gotten numbers similar to those in my video?

Today when I checked the harness I found a section of my wiring harness that had been touching my silencer and the red/white and green/white wires coming from the stator were melted and slightly exposed and touching the pipe. Hopefully this is the reason to my problems. Also I used a multimeter to check the stator and coil. Here's a video of me testing my ignition coil. I'm not getting readings in the ranges listed in the Clymer. I got numbers that fell within the range of norms when I tested the resistance on the stator and coil pick up. Are these readings I'm getting indicative of a problem with the coil or are these readings wack?

Checked compression; ~125psi each cylinder. Carbs appear to be synced when I look through intake window; not sure what type of plug caps these are. In the process of testing the coil now.

I'm a noob when it comes to these things, especially electrical systems. It looks like I'm going to just start buying a few things, cuz the bible says when you test resistance on a warm engine it may be inaccurate do to increased resistance caused by heat. Any recommendations where to get a stator and coil? eBay has tons and even bundled packages that seem too-good-to-be-true deals for what are probably junk

Yea I'm thinking it's something with ignition, I'm going to have to get a fly wheel puller.

Yes, I actually took the filter off before I started it today and ran it with no filter, then with just the main filter then with the secondary filter, all the same resulted. I don't think there is a tube that connects my carbs because I have aftermarket 30mm carbs and they each have a choke. This is just really weird. It ran fine until I did routine maintenance to prevent things like this as now it's running like crap. Lol

Today I pulled it out of the garage with the old plugs still in it, it fired right up, I ran it until it was warm and started to spit sputter and backfire. I shut it off and quickly put brand new, correctly gapped plugs in. It fired up and started but I could tell it wasn't running right. It started to have the really bad symptoms within 30 seconds again. Pulled the plugs and they looked rich and they were only in the bike for 90 seconds.. Checking the compression and wires when I have time this weekend. I'll keep you guys posted. Thanks for your help

Yes I've ran it since I've fixed the orange wire and it ran pretty good. Is it possible that it would it run fine while it was warming up then just go bad if it were the plugs that were fouled? I thought it would run like crap the whole time if the plugs were fouled. If that's the case, I guess I could of over oiled my air filter and now its running rich.

My shee hasn't had a very good 2 weeks. Last week it suddenly and completely lost spark. It ended up being the TORS box. Everything TORS removed now. Ran fine for few days, then last night I changed the tranny oil and cleaned and oiled my air filter. I took it for a ride down the road after I finished and it ran great for about 10 mins. I was running through the gears (WOT at times) without any issues. On my way back to the garage it started to misfire slightly in one of the cylinders(I think it started in the right cylinder). I didn't think much of it because it was only 50 degrees out last night and my shee was jetted for 75-85 degree weather. Today, it has gotten worse. I started it up and it ran good for 5 mins then started to misfire in the right cylinder again. I swapped plug caps to opposite cylinders to see if was one of the plug caps, but that seemed to make it worse. Now It will start, idle, and will run strong for 2 mins or so, but then once it starts to get close to operating temp it starts to hesitate and misfire, even sometimes backfire, until it gets to the point it wont even rev and eventually stall. I thought it was just fouling plugs or running really rich, but if I let it cool down, it will fire back up and run fine for a few minutes until it warms up and dies. I'm going to check my coil and coil pick up tmrw. I was wondering if anyone has had similar issues. Also, when I removed the TORS, noticed the insulation around the orange wire going into the coil was damaged and almost broken. I cut and re connected with a wire nut and electrical tape. Don't know if that could have anything to do with it? I'll check the compression too as soon as I get my hands on a tester. Does it sound like it could be a compression issue--loses compression once it heats up? Any comments or suggestions guys? Sry this post is so scatter-minded. Thanks in advance.

Thx for the reply. It looks like my TORS box took a crap. I bought this banshee a couple months ago and I thought it had the TORS eliminated. Well I tore the plastics off today and started checking all wires thoroughly and saw that it still had the little box connected up. Picked up a repair manual and it recommended to unplug the TORS box and to check for spark...it worked! Itfired right up with it unplugged. The only thing left of the TORS system on my bike was the box. Glad it wasn't anything too serious.

I didn't really check out what mods you have, but If you aren't running high compression, you really wont benefit from C12. You'll actually lose power when a high octane fuel is used in an application that does actually NEED the higher octane rating. Google " Do I need race fuel" or "high octane fuel" it'll explain it. I guess its safer if you run higher octane fuel as you are protecting it from pre-detonation, but if your looking for max power, the lowest octane fuel that you can safely run without knocking will provide the most power. I'm not an expert by any means but have been told this many times by forums member and friends who have way more experience than I do. Just trying to save you money. I buy a gallon of Turbo Blue 110 octane and mix it with 5 gallons of 93 pump gas to give it a little octane boost.

Ran my banshee for about an hour today after I repacked the silencers. It was running perfect. My neighbor who's an ex-pro motocross rider, hopped on next and took it for a spin. He was running it really hard (compared to how I ride it) for about 5 mins. He came down the last straight away in our track and ripped thru the gears and it was still running perfect. As he pulled off the track, he rolled up to where we standing, he hit the kill switch. It sat for about 1 min and he went to take it for another ride. Instead of kicking it, he attempted to roll start it out of laziness. But when the tires turned the engine over, all I heard was the engine bog. As the tires rolled I could hear him hitting the throttle. Didn't fire once. Checked around for loose wires, don't seem to see any. Pulled the plugs, they were saturated in gas. Grabbed each plug in my hand and kicked it over. Neither side shocked me. So no spark. Any one know what could go wrong within that short of a time period. Ran fine until the kill switch was flipped. I took apart the kill switch and cleaned it. Still nothing . Any ideas of what I need to check next. Thanks guys.

Hey guys, I'm new to the 2-stroke world and purchased a Banshee about a month ago. It was already modified by the previous owner, which made me a little hesitant to buy it, but I couldn't pass up the deal. It ran very well for about a month (5-7 hrs of riding total) . All my riding was in dry, dusty open trails, lots of WOT. It ran flawlessly, great low end (for a two- stroke) and it screamed without any hiccups, bogs, sputters from cruising to WOT. Yesterday I took it on a trail ride in muddy, tight trails with some shallow creek crossings. I noticed after awhile it started getting hiccups in the midrange and WOT and got worse and now today its the worst. I want to say it started after doing a creek crossing yesterday, but I cant pin point it to that. What was weird it would sometimes rip through the gears all the way to 6th with very few hiccups. Then once I took it to a hill climb it was missing the whole way up. It was as if it only was missing under heavier loads. I thought maybe some water got into somewhere it shouldn't so I let it sit over night to dry out. Today I started it, let it warm up. Ran okay with a few sputters at WOT. Did a 1st - 3rd hill climb and it ran fine until I hit 4th gear. Then after 4-5 mins of riding it got the worst it had ever been. I went to whip it around a turn and it bogged really bad. I would hit the throttle and I could barely get it into the power. It bogged until I got it back to the garage. I know you've heard this story 1000 times and that it could be a number of things. I just need direction as far as "what I should check 1st, then check THIS, if its not that, check THIS." Thanks guys, bear with me, I'm a noob. lol I'm going to try new plugs and I checked the filter and it didn't seem wet or dirty, just nicely oiled. Mods to the engine that I know of: 30mm carbs pro design cool heads hot rod crank .30 over V force 3 reeds FMF Fattys Pro design filter I'm running turbo blue(110) thru it. 32:1