Cunningham94

Hey guys, im helpin a buddy tune an 05 banshee. Its got fmf sst pipes and silencers, toomey 2-1 air filter, and vforce 4 reeds. The guy he bought it from had stock jets in it!! Ive got the mains up to 250, runs real good on upper rpms. I also tried 27.5 and 30 pilots, idled like dog crap on both. So now were back to 25, idles nice but when you throttle it, it seems like its load up to no end, smoke pours out of both pipes. This is only free revving it. Once driving it it seems to clean out nice and run good. Ive tried multiple needle clip positions as well, eventually going back to middle position. Compression is 118 and 121 Only thing that gets me is I have the same setup except k&n pods instead of 2-1 filter and I have +4 timing, I have 30 pilots and 280 mains, can two quads with the same mods running side by side really differ that much in jetting?

I've personally never seen black with grey and yellow, must be I haven't been around long enough lol, I wouldn't mind black but it is so common, any ideas on a way to make the black stand out from the rest of all the black framed bikes?

I have the cf1s, they have metal inserts for the lug to mount on, on each wheel there is one missing, just the insert fell out, carbon fiber is still intact

I've got a 98 banshee with the stock grey and yellow plastics, also the stock silver frame. I would like to have the frame powder coated I just don't know what color would go good with the plastics, if any body could post a pic or have suggestions that would be great.

I haven't had time to actually ride it, but I did cut the wire at the cdi, then taped both cut ends, started up and revved freely,BUT It revved freely just before that, I think maybe it was just a bad connection faulting when riding, hopefully this fixes it. If not I'll be sure to tell ya, thanks for the help.

Ok thanks so much for the helpd, ill try it out tomorrow

Ok, does it need a ground? I know this has been discussed hundreds of times on here, most tell you to simply unplug it, original owner deleted the wire but left a conglomeration of wires taped up. Thanks for the help, not used to this safety stuff, coming from an 85 honda 350x

Yeah I realized that after I looked up the wiring diagram, still woulda thought It would kill the engine if I separated the black/ yellow and black wires. Anyhow if I just cut the green/yellow wire near the cdi, will that work if I just tape off both ends so they don't touch?

Ok ive got a 98 shee, had a few issues at beginning of season to work out, got them corrected so I took it out to test ride it. Ran great for about ten minutes... spit and sputtered, would not rev above idle, likely parking brake issue. Take it home, find a black, and yellow and black wire half ass connected together, I assumed this was my problem so I soldered them back together. Took it back out did the same damn thing, bout 5-10 minutes and it would only idle not rev up. So I thought maybe I didnt connect the wires correctly, recut wires, just for craps and giggles I started it up holding the two wires together, revved normally, separated the wires and it STILL revs normally. I think this is my tors wires anyhow bit it still should have shut down when I separated the wires correct? Any help is greatly appreciated

I messed around with the quad a little more, I forgot to unscrew the fuel screw 1.5 turns, I cleaned the carbs took the screws out and just didn't have it adjusted correctly, it ran good for about ten minutes... Shut down in the middle of a field, would not even fire. Pushed it back to the garage and took the stator cover off. Flywheel nut came loose, woodruff key fell out, and stripped one off the bolts that holds the stator on the timing plate, making everything out of time. I didn't use lock tight, so save yourself the hassle and lock tight that nut!

Ive got fmf sst pipes, never messed with pilots, its always started good. Stock head as far as I know. I went bigger on the main cuz I was recommended 280 by many people on her and a few engine builders in michigan.

Did a compression check before I put the parts on in case it needed rebuilt, right side is 125 left side is 123.

Hi I've got a 98 banshee, over the winter I put in v force 4 reeds, and a timing plate and set it at +4. Replaced the 260 mains with 280s, 30 pilots, cleaned the carbs really good. Now it is a PAIN in the ass to get started. I know it's bad for it but I sprayed a bit of carb spray to finally get it started. Let it idle for a few minutes with the help of throttle control. Let off the throttle, idles perfectly. Shut it off, starts right back up. Lazer thermometer on the exhaust pipes and they were within 4 degrees so I don't think it's an air leak. Is this just a matter of bigger pilots?

Ok thanks guys, ill be sure to do that.

I've got a set of hiper cf1 carbon fiber rims on all corners. My problem is with the rear. There is a metal insert where the tapered lug nuts bolt up against, on each wheel I am missing one out of four. Does anybody know if I can order new inserts? I've searched the internet and can't seem to find them, maybe it's because I don't know the official name for them. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I plan on rejeting it since its already fairly lean as far as mains go, maybe I should bump up to 30 pilots and ditch the 27.5s that are in it?

Yeah thats what I have heard and rode a few. I talked to rdz racing (not trying to start a customer service war) wasnt committing to just him just price quoting. He said he could weld and true the crank, port, milled head and freshen up the top end with new pistons for around 6-800 dollars. Port job was 200, milled head was 50, and wiseco pistons at 400.

Im not planning on doin anything to it as far as cylinders, its got pipes, and filter as of now. I actually just got v force reeds today and timing plate tomorrow. Eventually want to bump up compression, ported and weld the crank. I do mostly riding around the farm and what not but make many trips to silver lake

I own a mostly stock banshee and would be considered very slow compared to what most of what you guys run lol. This may be a very stupid question but I hear all you guys talking about cubs, serval, Athena cheetah and many other cylinders, what is the difference between a stock cylinder and all these other cylinders? Is it just brand names?

Ok, ill order one up, never got around to the seal last summer cuz I always just made sure it was topped off before each ride.

I have pods hooked right on to the carbs

Thank you, I bought it like that, seems to run good but I will be sure to rejet it this spring.

Ive got a 98 banshee, stock bore and stroke. Fmf sst pipes, k&n pods on stock carbs, have v force 4 reeds and timing plate on order. The main jets are 240s and pilots are 27.5 plugs dont seem real lean, but ive had a few people say I should be in the 280-270 range. Ride mostly from 60-90° and between 700-1000 feet above sea level. Are they correct on the bigger jets? Never done a plug chop on it

Alright, thank you very much for all the help.

Ok, thanks for the prompt reply, I assume it would be best to replace the clutch pack? Which is no big deal since I planned on it once I start adding a but more power, just wanted to make sure it was just the clutches sticking instead of a bigger issue that could be fixed while I was in there. Any recommendations on which brand of clutch? I plan on doing reeds, timing plate, milled head and a port job probably next winter.