Daddie0

Thx @tfaith08, this is helpful. Still not sure I'm going to run them (due to the stupid zerk issue), but knowing how to check the ball joints for wear is good info.

BTW, I just realized I didn't answer your question: The pros I've heard people report are that the bike smoothed out and felt more stable. I've also heard people who ran them but went back to the stock setup as they preferred it for their style of riding. The pros in my mind (irregardless of other's experience) is adjustability, the 450 shocks--as you know--allow adjustment of preload, rebound, and stiffness.

I've heard people suspect you could "pop a ball joint" but I've not heard one confirmed case of this. I would be interested. I'm not trying to be stupid. I bought this setup off a guy who ran them on his shee for a long time with no ill effects...he was just moving to a +2 +1 setup. I'm not trying to be stupid, but I've only heard speculation. As to why I would try it, I've read repeated posts by folks who run them and swear by the setup. I've also read of people swapping the whole front end. Either way, my question is really more about the Zerks than anything, as it's way easy to run my stock shocks. In fact, I might just do that as I just compared my lower A's and it doesn't look like they were tweaked in the wreck. Thanks for your input though...I do appreciate it!

Thanks for the reply. Does anyone have any idea why someone would remove the zerks? Also, would there be any problem with tapping that same spot (that's been closed)? This seems like a dumb thing to do, so I'm guessing there had to be a reason to do it....

I picked up some used stock A-Arms for my banshee along with a set of yfz 450 shocks. I've read all the pros/cons of running the 450 shocks on the stock setup, but want to give them a try...I'm thinking if nothing else I can just swap them back for my factory shocks if I have concerns once the arms are changed. Everything was going great with the swap (btw, the lowers are already modified to clear the larger shocks) when I realized that the lower a-arms don't have zerk fittings that my original arms have. It looks like they've been removed and filled...they are definitely stock arms. Is there any reason why someone would do this? Also, how should I proceed? Should I tap a set in, or just pack it with grease and go, or what?

My son will be 16 in the fall. He said it was the twist throttle that got him. I'll stand the bike up as you suggest and see what's what. This is an older Banshee btw (2001) and not a show bike. You are right on the handlebars being bent too...they are kinda "twisted." I'm hoping the shock isn't bent nor the frame. I'll post back after I check it out. Also might shoot some pics. Thanks for the info...

ha! Thanks. So, I just realized this might be better in the Repairs forum. Is there a way to move it? Don't want to double post...

Brand new to the forums, just picked up my first banshee. I've always wanted one, but the timing was never right. Anyway, went riding with some family over Memorial Day because my son wanted to take his Blaster and that led me to come home and find one of my own. Two days after buying my Banshee, I let my son take it out to some local property (he's been riding his Blaster for about four years now) much to my wife's shagrin. The end of this story is my son clipped a tree with the left front tire and the bike tossed him and shook him up (glad it wasn't worse). Once the dust settled and verfied my son was OK I checked the bike: broken steering linkage, top left a-arm jammed into the shock spring, tree bark stuck in the tire bead (still holding air). What should I be looking for in addition to the obvious A-Arm and tie-rod? Just want to make sure I don't miss anything that could screw me up later. Oh yeah, and this was a fairly low speed affair as he was climbing a rock pile in first, got scared, pulled too much throttle (twist vs. thumb) came over the pile and clipped the tree within ten feet. Thanks, and glad to find such an awesome community on Banshees!