4wheelsaBlazin

I want to know how much $ for the pipes. What size keihin carbs and type/price? Are you just taking offers or what.

Are those pipes cpi inframes? What kind of carbs? How much?

How do you check float level, just adjust them till they start to overflow then back it off slightly? Or is there a measurement?

Ive been doing that on dirtbikes for 20 years and never had a problem. It was way under a 1\4 mile. My quad tops out at 75mph. I wasnt close to redline when it happens. I got a banshee cause I like haulin ass. If I wanted to put put, I would've bought a Warrior.

I was thinking that. I jave a aftermarket billet cap with a check valve. I took the check valve off but still did it. I may drill it out more and see what happens.

So I just rebuilt my top end with FAST dune ported cylinders and a cool head 20cc domes and now when I keep the throttle pinned through the gears, it acts like its running out of fuel when I get into 6th gear. Its got stock carbs. Would this be a float level problem or could it be loading up? It is rich right now. Im running 330 mains but im about to try 310s and do a plug chop.

I'll take em as long as the reeds are good (not cracked frayed or see light shine through). If so pm me with paypal info.

Thats what I was thinking. Dealers around here suck ass and dont stock anything besides plugs. Owe well whats another few days

I mangled my dowel sleeves trying to remove them from my cylinder. Has anybody found these at a hardware store usually or is it something that usually has to be ordered? Im just sick of waiting on little things in the mail and eager to get this together.

Got it. Thanks alot. I cant wait to feel whats this things like with a good clutch again.

You're talking about the point of the actuator and the 1 triangle arrow on the cases.

Ok. I pieced together what your talking about. I was referring to the 3 arrows on the clutch cover that holds the springs

And I guess that actuator should have just a little play and not be actually fully touching?

Ok that worked. Thanks. Seen that but just wanted to be safe. I never pulled the actuator out so I shouldnt have to take it back apart to see if its aligned with the arrows right?

Ok got you

And damn do I ever wish I was that girls bathin suit

So what does the arrows supposed to be aligned with?

So this is a normal thing and those arrows dont matter?

Ok, so im not new to doin clutches on bikes but new to banshees and this actuator setup. I just replaced the original clutch with fzr fibers and had the cable unhooked from the perch when I did it. Now im realizing that the cable doesnt have enough slack to hook it back uo to the lever. Is it normal to have to adjust the actuator to get slack or is something up. Theyre not thicker than the originals so why would I have to adjust anything? Also the arrows on the outside of the outer clutch hub, do they need to point a certain way?

What kind of condition are the red plastics in. Just red? Looked weird in pics but may be glare. $50

Soo just pipes, no silencers?

Only bad thing I hear about cpi is bad fit and finish. Toomey is supposed to ne great in that department as well as sound.

Thats what I was thinking. Seems like alot of people with t5s are now selling them for cpi.

Im about to install some FAST dune play ported cylinders on my shee. I have fattys on there now on a stock motor. Got to admit it ran pretty good for a stock pipe motor. I blew the wheels off a newer yfz450 with a kinda wore out top end. Question is would an upgrade to t5s or cpi inframes be worth it? I mostly blast through fields wide open and ride trails but I keep the rpms up at all times. I like to ride fast. I love a motor that rips on the mid to top and feels fast with a good kick. Also do the cpi pipes have as goid mid range as t5s? Im leaning towards cpi but I know t5s are easier and cheaper to get used.

Thats awesome to hear. Guess ill stick with stock for now and see how I like it. Guessin ill be pretty happy.