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Shocks will ship out tomorrow, thank you for the purchase! To help answer a few questions I'm getting. The swingarm is a Metal Tech Oval tube chromoly swingarm with round carrier housing, and is a +6". The axle is I a lonestar axle, and is not bent or damaged. The only issue with it is it is dulled from running in sand and the castle nuts on the end have a finger missing, but the cotter pins will still lock it tight in place. Also it can be adjusted from stock width to +2" wider. It is straight and not bent, plus i think they have a life time guarantee on them.

The stocks are length. I have replied to all PM's. The fuel tank/pingle, front a-arms, throttle cable, radiator, kick starter, bearing carrier are all sold. Let me know if you have any more questions, or want to see any better pictures.

The socks are setup for a 185 lbs. rider with stock a-arms. they were torn down a few years ago and the springs powder coated to match the frame, then were sent to works to be rebuilt. Ran them for a year maybe then replaced them with marvins. The radiator is gone.

Ok, here are pictures of everything. Its a little dusty, as it has just been sitting around. Feel free to shoot me a PM.

I have a bunch of parts I am selling. I built a bike and had a light weight frame setup, everything was new and fresh powder coated. Dyno'd and tuned the motor and road it once, then I sold the motor and the frame has been sitting around, I'm selling the rest of the parts and some I have laying around my shop. Everything is in great shape, and I will try and describe as best as possible. If you have any questions feel free to ask. Prices will indicate if it includes shipping. The larger items like the frame and swing arm I have no idea what shipping will be so it is the price without shipping, and the prices listed are if paypal is sent as a gift, otherwise add 3%. Stuff for sale: Stock frame cut and lightened for drag use, powder coated metallic red (was setup for these stock style a-arms) - $250 Stock a-arms powder coated gloss black - $75 Stock tie rods and tie rod ends - $25 shipped Front brake calipers set with brake pads - $55 shipped Front brake rotors - $25 shipped SS front brake lines Right light was pinched at some time, but still in great condition no leaks - $50 shipped SS rear brake line for +6 swingarm - $35 shipped Front handle bar mount brake master cylinder - $35 shipped Rear brake master cylinder - $35 shipped Radiator hoses with temp gauge - $15 shipped Clutch cable - $15 shipped Throttle cable for pwk carbs - $15 shipped Steering stem powder coated gloss black - $35 Banshee bend anodized black handle bars - $35 shipped Terry cable thumb throttle Housing - $85 shipped Clutch lever with quick adjuster - $15 shipped Stock chrome banshee grab bar (has a few scratchs on the back) - $20 shipped 12.75 rear marvin shaw hillshooter shock (I can adjust pressure for you before shipping) - $150 shipped Rear brake caliper with block off plate - $50 shipped +6” metal tech swingarm powder coated gloss black (oval chromoly tubing with round carrier) - $350 JJ&A bearing carrier - $100 shipped Lonestar axle with locking axle nut - $150 Powder coated gloss black foot pegs - $30 shipped Powder coated black brake pedal - $15 shipped Shift Lever Powder coated black - $15 shipped New Chrome kick starter - $100 shipped Banshee gas tank with Chrome Pingle fuel valve that also has reserve - $100 Billet banshee gas cap - $20 shipped Banshee dual rate works shocks with candy apple red powder coated springs - $200 shipped Stock engine mounts – $20 shipped Dynatek Hot Dual Plug coils with aftermarket plug wires - $75 shipped Stock banshee frame powder coated candy apple red (same color as the shock springs) - $150 I was going to put pictures up but the file limit is 50k.... so it is almost impossible to see anything on a picture that small.

Bump, anyone know or know of a good way to get ahold of Noss?

I need a replacement set of the Noss head o-rings for a 72mm super cub. Do the super cub heads use the same o-rings as the regular cubs? I have tried calling and emailing Noss but i can't get a hold of anyone there. Of if anyone knows where i can get a set of the o-rings for 72mm bore i'd appreciate it.

also if i remove the voltage regulator, it looks like the yellow wire to the stator which also Y's off to the handle bar switch that the entire thing can be removed. If so then what do you do with the stator wire? just tape it up since it won't be used anymore? btw, thanks for all the help on this, i appreciate it!

one more question. do i need to run the voltage regulator if i'm not running any head or tail lights?

i know i have seen a wire diagram on here before for a drag cut harness. I am stripping mine down a little not completely and have a few questions. 1. at the front end of my harness i have a white 2 wire connectionr with a black wire and a green/yellow strip wire, it isn't on my old harness and isn't showing in the service manual. what is this for? 2. to remove tors and tors box connectros i just need to remove wires and not worry about hooking anything together, correct? 3. the "throttle switch" i assume i just remove with out making a connection also as i don't every remember owning a banshee with that plugged into anything, I'd assume it is also part of the tors system. 4. For the switches on the handle bars i was planning on completely removing them, then just use the red and black wire that go to the key to kill the engine. Do i need to ground or connect anything together for the handle bar switches to make the engine run? thanks for any and all help on this i appreciate it.

I've had one go bad, after trouble shooting a top end miss forever put the stock cdi on and cleaned up. sent it back and they claimed it was ok but sent me a new one anyway. About a year later same thing happened, so put the stock cdi on and ran a timing plate. Not only on banshe's but i've had several dynateks go back on raptors as well, and some last for almost 6 years now. If you don't have to run one i wouldn't. a timing plate will work just as well and be more reliable.

Just curious as a comparison, have you ever had your 18dm dyno'd? what did it make? You would think there would be a huge difference between 18dm and 4m serval.

I am more familiar with 4 strokes and the affects good ring seal have on them, and signs and problems cause with poor ring seal. What about in a 2 stroke? Reason i ask is i was going to pull the top end off a low hour banshee motor and put a thinner base gasket on. I was wondering if i left the rings on there if they would seal up very well again? these pistons have locators so the rings are installed in the same place, the pistons and cylinders have probably less than 5 hours on them, so they are fresh still. Will the rings seal again or will it have excessive blow by?

One more thing that puzzles me is when i was testing this on the dyno. This run was at WOT the entire time, so i don't know if it is the needle or dump tubes causing this lean issue? The needles are for part throttle tuning usually. Does the dump tube/needle affect wide open throttle. After trying the richest needles i could get for the carbs I started to think it might be the pipes. I was running some shearer BB inframe pipes which i believe were originally for a cheetah motor. I have some new pipes setup for a DM coming from shearer right now. Once i get those i think i am going to try the e85 again.

I had a small bottle of redline alcohol 2 stroke oil i used when i was playing with it. i normally run the redline racing 2 stroke oil, does that stuff work with alcohol? I thought about putting power jets on it, and a vacuum fuel pump just to make sure it would have enough fuel. however on the graph in the higher rpms the a/f ratio was down around 11.5:1 (btw, that is reading on a gas scale, using a gas scale i typically make peak power around 12.7:1), so it had plenty of fuel. I think i would be okay if i could just get that lean spot tuned out. yep, e 85 runs cooler than gas and makes a little more power than gas. It isn't as much as methanol, but I'll give up a few pony's for the other benefits. The odd thing is i had the head off of it, and it didn't look there was detonation. When it closed the plug gaps it must have done it very quickly. I couldn't see any pitting on the head or piston like you typically will with detonation. Plus i couldn't hear it either, and no speckling on the plug.... I believe the plug gap was around 20 thousands. For your car setup are you going to be running efi or a carb? In the efi motors i have been running walbro 340 pumps. they are 255l/hr pumps and have worked well for me so far. I'm still running with stock plastic tanks and lines with no issues what so ever. the e85 will actually clean up the tank and lines and many times plug your fuel filter getting all the old crap out of it, so what for that. It is odd too as the exhaust will look clean instead of black and carboned up.

here is the graph, its pretty small cause of the size limit but you still get the idea.

Here is a dyno from last year when i was messing with it. Don't get too caught up on the hp or torque numbers as it was calibrated wrong and reading extremely low. Regaurdless this is showing the a/f that starts out lean from whicking the throttle open, goes rich, then goes lean again. It is the strangest thing I have ever seen, and has me dumbfounded on how to fix it. Tried probably 6 different needles much smaller in diamerter then the cel's that were running on gas and it didn't help that much.

I have been told they are too small... But i don't really know of any larger carbs, or care to loose the bottom end going with larger ones. It is a 16mm DM.

Thank you camatv for the help. I run e85 in everything and love the stuff. I have it in both my car and pickup. I also have converted many 4 stroke atv's but banshee tuning is somewhat new to me as i don't have much dyno 2 stroke time under my belt. Like I said it is a strange situation as I can cruise atpart throttle on e85 on the dyno and it wasn't too lean. when starting the dyno pulls I punch it and the bike is reading rich, very rich. Then it leans way out and then goes rich again. I have plenty of fuel as once I am in the higher rpms I can make a pull no problem and keep enough fuel in the bowls, just down low right when it was getting on the pipe around 6500rpm it is very lean. I will try and find dyno graph to show you what I mean. I will start by drilling out the dump tubes and go from there. One of the big reasons I don't want to switch carbs is I own basically ever size jet for these pwks, as they use the same mains as FCR carbs. Also I have probably 20 different needles and 20 different pilots. I'm thinking I will try and get these 41pwk's to work and if I can't then I will buy a set of 39pwks and stick to gas. (have heard the 39's are less finicky) I talked to Rob at RDZ, as he does a carb conversion. He said he drills the dump tubes out and you run the same needle that you do on gas(didn't say how much he drilled). Then he adds a power jet to it. Btw, there are huge benefits over gas or methanol in my opinion. E85 isn't corrosive like methanol and I never have purged a bike in my life on it and have seen no ill effects. Also it isn't as finicky as methanol, starts better in cold, runs cooler than gas and makes more power than gas, but not as much as methanol. The only drawl back to e85 is consistency, which is what most people say that have never ran it. If you tune on e85 and blend switches to e70 it will just richen your bike up by about half a point(I bet most peoples bikes are further off on jetting than that). It is very easy and cheap to measure ethanol %.

I have searched but didn't see much info on it. I have talked to a few different builders as well to pick their brains on setup up PWK carbs for e85 but didn't get much help. Here is the story. Last year i wanted to convert my 41pwk carbs over to e85. I installed larger mains and pilots and got those dialed in, however i could never get the needles correct. On the dyno the WOT a/f ratios were good in the higher rpms, however down around 6000rpm when the bike was just starting to get on the pipes the engine would go stupid lean. So lean that it would detonate hard enough to close the gap on the spark plugs and kill the engine... I could never get it fixed so converted the carbs back to gas. For those who are familiar with jetting and dyno tuning, when i would start the run it would be very rich, then lean way out and come back rich all within about 1500rpm around the 6000rpm mark. Is this because my needle tubes are too small? I'm thinking i need to drill out the needle tubes, but don't know what to drill them too? I tried several different sets of needles to get more fuel but it did not help. I have seen some have converted to e85, what did you do to your carbs to get it tuned correctly? Do you run power jets?

One more question on these harnesses. I was reading how they changed them for different years. Do you know if the cdi box and connectors are the same for all years? I believe the stators are same for all years of banshee.

I have searched on here to see if anyone makes an aftermarket wire harness? I want to make a new drag harness but seems silly to go buy a harness then cut most of it off. Seems like they make absolutely everything for these bikes but i haven't found a place selling a stripped down wire harness. Or is there a place i could get the cdi and stator connectors at, then i could make my own wire harness.