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CrashRyan

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Posts posted by CrashRyan

  1. 90f250f4a76937628946e5542799c616.jpg

    The shifter needs to be at/over the yamaha logo to ride in boots with wide pegs.

    I have oem position roll pegs and a size 13 boot.

    My toe fits under my shifter. Even when I'm slid way back through the whoops I can easily shift up and keep going

     

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

    That is one way of fixing it but the bolt gets all jacked up and doesnt fit in the slot of the shift shaft. Also it looks like down shifting would be a bitch lol!!!

  2. Is your interest in relocated pegs strictly for clearance to your lockout cover?

     

    Or would you prefer them for rider comfort too?

    My interest would be for clearance, ride comfort as well at being able to use a shorty shift lever to make a little cleaner shifts. I dont like the angle of the stock shifter with the large pegs so if i leave the shifter in the stock position and drop the pegs i can get my boots under the shifter a lot cleaner without shifting my body position. SonofSand rides with a set of pegs that have been repositioned by roll design but they no longer have that option available. 

    • Like 1
  3. JD i love your pegs but have you ever considered building a roll design peg in a race position? I believe its 1" lower and 1" back from the stock position. I would be all over another set of your pegs. The stock position pegs scrape on my lockout and are sometimes hard to seat in the bolt holes because of how the engine actually rests on the peg.

    • Like 1
  4. Don't flame here but I found a heavy duty plastic tool chest with wheels and a handle on it. Figured it would be easier to move around. If I put the engine in sideways I can pack a good 3-4 inches of insulator board around it. I wouldn't think there is a problem shipping a engine on its side as long as there are no liquids in it but what do you guys think?

  5. I know Ryan that they did the testing on his 10mm serval just got a hold of a set of snipers in like 3 days. I tried to get a pair 3 months ago. called and called for about a week and a half with no answer or reply. 

     

    I talked to Cam the night before Tyler posted the results of the 10mm serval and ended up going with one of the options i could get a hold of that he gave me.

  6. Tyler any idea what the stutter at the top of the sniper pipes is here on this dyno chart that Cam did on Ryan's 10mm serval?

     

    http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=171645

     

    That is one of the big reasons i stayed away plus the fact that i have heard and seen that they burn the crap out of your pods which isnt great out in the sand. 

     

    I've been thinking about new carbs for a while and just about bought a new set the other day but then saw chariot is coming out with new carbs and decided to wait. Messaged them just yesterday and they said they are out about 4 months on those. Is there any harm in running a 35mm carb on this motor till i can pick up a set of 39mm chariot carbs?

  7. X2 with the cel needle. Also try mixing the avgas with pump fuel 50/50.

    Dome issue could be there.

     

    How do the plugs look ?

    To new to get a good reading on them. haven't had them in very long. i pulled one plug and it was wet the other was dry but both carbs are set up identical and the cylinders kick exactly the same. I'll try a different needle and mixing down though. That was one thing we talked about trying.

  8. I just build a 10mm Serval cub (465) as cast. I'm running pods, 35mm carbs, chariot intakes, VF4 reeds, chariot cool head with 24cc domes (kicking compression 155lbs), shearer SB in frames. Timing is set at +5 with all stock ignition minus the timing plate. Fuel of choice right now is Avgas mixed 50:1 with  Amsoil. Leakdown test held 6lbs solid for 1.5 hours.

     

    Right now I'm running into a problem that im hoping you guys can help me with. 

     

    Im running 42 pilots, 135 mains, cgm needle on top clip. My machine is acting rich but i feel like im way to low to go any leaner. When my machine gets under heavy load like when hill shooting it has a hard time staying in the powerband. as if my pipes can't clear and its bogging out. 

     

    Here are a few video clips of me out testing and tuning let me know what you guys think. 

     

     

    This was with a 148 main

     

    this was with the 142 main

     

    I picked up more speed with a 140, 138, 135.... but im worried about being way to lean. Any other issues you guys might be able to lead me toward or is it just a jetting deal is all?

     

  9. Not sure who made the carbon fiber hood I bought it off of Tyler Clark a few months ago in preparation for this build (not sure if you saw it or not). Tyler didn't say where he got it from. It is a design I have never seen before so I snagged it. been talking to a guy about making a race cut style rear fender out of carbon fiber but he wanted to see if there was interest for it at all. So if anyone knows where I could track something like that down let me know please!

  10. So last year I got into the banshee game and totally got sucked in! I bought a roller and went to work from there. here is what I have done, if you have any suggestions of what's next or anything let me know. I am a 80% duner 20% dragger.

     

    Stripped the roller down to just a frame cut off some unused brackets and powder coated my frame a deep grey tone. As I started putting everything together I decided to make some modifications.

     

    Chassis mods

    Front End

    A-Arms were a little bad off so I got ahold of a set of Metal Tech long travel arms powder coated black

    I added LSR Billet front hubs anodized black and Fox Floats for suspension.

     

    Rear End

    +5 Stellar swing arm powder coated black with a JJ&A 40mm round house carrier black and JJ&A Black hard coated play axle and hubs. running a Elka stage 5 rear shock. Aluminum sprocket cut to lighten rear brake rotor.

     

    Steal braided brake lines all the way around, RIS bumper, real carbon fiber hood, custom seat cover, trail tech head lights (thinking I might though on some rigid head lights), oversized radiator, jds custom CDI relocation bracket

     

    Cut wheels all around powder coated black rear tires are skat trak sls buffed 11 paddle extremes, front tires I have both skat trak mohawks and smooth buff tires.

     

    Engine

    pods with outerwears, PWK 35mm carbs, Chariot billet intakes, V-Force 4 reeds, 10 mil serval cylinder, Chariot anodized black cool head with 24 cc domes, Chariot anodized black stator cover, ModQuad anodized black billet lockout cover, DD lockout, Yamaha clutch pack, pro-mod tranny by Redline Racing, Shearer pipes.

     

    It's all torn down right now and im just starting to put it all back together so if there is anything else I can do id love to get your guys input on whats going on right now. Let me know what you guys think!!!

  11. Following... Just want to say thanks to everyone putting in the time and effort to do this. Hope it doesn't turn into a shit storm like most things do around here. I'm shopping for a new set of pipes this winter for a 10 mil serval im putting together so I really do hope this goes down.

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