mrman99

my new works did not drop right in. I had to jack upt the quad and force it in.

orings in the pipes? don't think i ever seen em. I have LRD's and they're leaking from the exhuast port, where the pipes meet the cylinders. I looked at my tranny oil and it looks ok. other then that everything seems to be ok.

finally got my 12 port stroker from passionre put together. I ran it for 15 mins, and notice oil leaking out of the exhuast ports. Anyone seen this? Its quite a bit of oil, enough to put a small puddle on the ground, about 1/8 of a cup worth. I smelt it, and it had no gas fume. I was thinking it might be transmission oil. but how did it get to the exhuast ports. Smoke coming out of the exhuast looks fine. Anyone with any ideas?

to answer my own question: After removing the tors, you just leave the connections unlooped.

the 2 cables that are left after you take out the tors, do you have to loop them back so they make a closed circut?

anyone know where i can get a good deal on a range of mains and pilots?

anyone know what the mains and pilot sizes are for the stock 35's pwk?

had a question on how many big spacers there are on the engine mounts. The clymers book looks like there are two in the front and two in the rear mounts. the spacer washer looks are not round but, cut away on one side, and has the letter "UP" stamped on one side. They go in between the frame tabs and the engine mount. When I pulled off my engine i only remember having the one on the rear right side only. is there 4 all together? how many do you have?

Im in the process of putting together the engine. Am i better off putting the jugs and head on and assemble the engine complete and put it back in the frame, or is it bettter to put the jugs and head on after the engine is in place? I rather put the whole thing togeter outside of the frame, but unsure if it will fit with the jugs/head already mounted.

bump, link should be good now http://www.sportbikes.ws/showthread.php?th...15&pagenumber=1

woops didn't check it http://www.sportbikes.ws/showthread.php?th...15&pagenumber=1 this should work now

I don't think there are differrent ways to put it in. It only fits one way..

putting my engine together and i have an extra seal... the starter oil seal, looked all over and don't know where it goes.

How much yamalube #4 do i use to seal the cases? spread it on thinly? or thick?

anyone have pics of a modified shift star? Lookin for the detail on the backside of the neutral point. And Also how far do you turn down the points? What dia do you endup with? Looking for some basic dimensions...

yep its my first time...and nope don't have a manual...anyone know where i can pick one up cheap?

Need some advice on spliting the case. I took off both side covers off, and unbolted the screws on top and bottom. took off the flywheel, stator plate, kickstart gear and spring. the case doesn't want to split. is there anything else i need to remove. I banged on it a little bit, thinking it might be the seals sticking. but no go. Any suggestions...

TheBansheeMan86 see's my point. From what i understand unless you lathe the od and id to get the wall thickness the same, you wont get a part that is ballanced. Even if you true up the outside dia, the inside dia is not running true. That will affect the balance. BTW Boonman, I'm not trying to flame you. Hope you didn't take it the wrong way. My background is in manufacturing/machining/mechanical design. I'm just trying to understand, its not logical to me. Yamaha puts in the holes to balance it, you remove them and say its balanced? FYI....I know how to run a lathe....Acutually I own a mold shop and have enough equipment to make practicly anything.

Since i have my motor stock motor split (to put in a stroker), I was wondering if its worth the $$$ to change out the clutch basket to an aftermarket one. The stock one is practicly new. Whats your thoughts. I'm getting port work done, and adding new carbs and stroker crank. I know I need to change the clutch spings. Should i get heavier springs and wait for some wear and tear then replace the basket and plates? Or will the new engine mods be too much for the stock clutch with heavier springs.

there is no way that removing material concentricly from center of the shaft will remove equal amounts. The reason is the holes are only from one side. I can see if the series of holes are 180 degs from each other. But my flywheel is not the case. The flywheel i have only has a series of holes on one side. Spining the dia down to a point where the holes are removed, will put the wheel out of balance again. It would be like having the stock flywheel without the balancing holes. FYI....The flywheels are stamped (not casted from a mold). And holes are drilled afterwards.

That does not make sense to me. you are removing the holes that are balancing it, just because you spin it up in a lathe doesn't automaticly balances it. Maybe someone with a bit more knowledge can explain it to me..Boonman you care to elaborate, or PM me if you don't want it to be public.

I just took the cover off the flywheel and notice that they had some spots drilled to balance the flywheel. When you lighten it, how do you check for balance?

Thanks PassionRE, I figured it was so.. I've been so busy lately, I haven't had a chance to remove the engine. I just got a notice from my job. Next friday will be everyone's last day. They're gonna be out of buisness, btw the jugs will be sent out tomorrow (monday). what is the welding for? would i be able to do that myself? I have a welder. (trying to save some $$$, I will be unemployed by the end of the week) I would appreciate any info you can offer. I don't think i can afford to send you the case under the circumstances. Thanx for all the help.

I was planning to split the case, to put in a stroker. Need some tips/tricks/advice. Since its open, what else can I do. Need some advice on case matching and anything else that should be done with a open case..

looking for 35mm keihin's new or used....but need to be in working order.