Whobrey47

yep slides are in correct carbs otherwise they hang open and wont go all the way down

choke tube is in place and everytime I clean the carbs I completely remove them then take the bowl off and take the jets out and spray em out then blow air thru em. Ill check that black box thing when I get home. I moved the needles cause someone else suggested it to me. All the thing has done to it is pipes a knn and jetted. I really just wanna pay someone to figure it out I never have time and when I do get to come home the last thing I wanna do is fuck with this thing, if it was running itd be a different story. Anyone got any suggestions

took it all apart. reeds look great. needles were on 4th clip, moved down to 5th. unplugged the tors clip and twisted wires together. still getting good spark. tightened the caps with channel locks. cleaned carbs again, sprayed with cleaner then blown out. Now it wont start.

got a shee, put the TORS kit on it and its ran like dogshit ever since. had a deal cylinder, wont take throttle worth shit. Carbs are synced, put new plugs in, both cyls have good spark and Im officially tired of fucking with it. I only get to come home one weekend a month so Im lookin to get something done within the next few days. anyone around here know whatsup with these things I will compensate you for your time and make you sandwiches while you figure it out. lemme know

outruns bankees. racing edition http://indianapolis.craigslist.org/mcy/3179326676.html

gave me a good deal on a set of shocks and I was leery cause any other time Id buy thru forums I had got burnt. They aint all peices of crap I guess. Good dude no worries buying from him

the carbs were out of sync so we re set them and got em right.... then the dead cyl was firing and the other one went dead. Its alot better than it was the dead cyl doesnt fire at idle but once you open it up a little itll run... took it for a quick ride and it ran good for about 15 mins then wouldnt rev out and was smoking like crazy. I think im just gonna take it to someone im out of ideas

visually they look like they open at the same time would that really make the cylinder not run at idle and low rpm tho?

made a diff topic about this but still didnt figure it out. installed the tors removal bullshit and cleaned the piss out of the carbs I blasted out the main and pilot jets and bowl and pretty much every passageway of the carbs. get it done and start it and the left cyl isnt smoking out the exhaust. took it around the block and itll come on when your hard on the throttle and when it does theres a loud tinging sound in the pipe. put new plugs in it same thing. the only thing I havent checked is the reeds. They wouldnt do that would they? whats weird is before i messed with it the right cyl was in and out... I dont think the plug wire is bad cause it eventually does hit when your roll on the throttle.... common sense would tell me its the pilot jet but like I said the carbs were spotless when I put em back on. lost here

spray carb cleaner around the bead, stand back, squirt a stream at it and light it

didnt read all the replies before me but i had a 03 predator that I had back in high school that was pretty hammered.... and I freaklin loved it when it was together which was hardly never. If it wouldnt have broke on me everytime I rode it I would still have it, I liked it more than ll my 450s Ive had. Ton of torque, always had awesome starts, didnt stall, loved the handling... and Ive had some long travel 450r's. Mine being a 03 didnt hook up well and had a ton of wheelspin with the longer swingarm that was my main gripe with it. other than the clutch burning up and it being $280 to replace, the starter going out, the battery always being dead even with a new one, and wheel bearings going out every ride The pred and banshee are about as opposite as can be. if your pred is reliable Id keep it or ask for some cash unless your just sick of looking at it cause that shees gonna take 10 times the effort to ride in the woods. I got a shee cause I got a heck of a deal on it, their cheap powerhouses and its different

you still got the arms? firm on price?

ahh good point i didnt even think about running 4:1's. Sucks I have stock a arms though I'd hate to lose 2 inches of width

when your in tight woods and sawing the bars back and forth a stabilizer makes it hell. you gotta think when your turning your pulling one side of your bars with your forearm and if you got something making it harder to turn thats more wear on you. they are nice if you hit something unexpected in a field but the trade off isnt worth it for me.

Hey all, got my 2nd banshee had one back in the days and I wanna do some xc racing with this one. I came off a built 450 and I know this is gonna be a far cry from that but I'm ready to give it a whirl. My main concern is this one as well as my last was a bear to turn. Alot of effort and then the sidewall is always grabbing at ruts and giving a ton of feedback. Between that and the stiff throttle arm pump is gonna be the death of me. I hate stabilizers, I never understood the thinking behind making the steering even harder will solve things. Why cant they make sport quads with power steering damnit Id go buy one. dunno if there is a solution or not, these things just have nasty bumpsteer. Im guessing the answer is gonna lie in a $1500 set of adjustable a arms

pm'd ya

Just picked up a 800 dollar beater and been playing with it. its sat forever, but it starts 1st kick and seems to be jetted right, it takes throttle well and runs good 90 percent of the time but occasionally when it gets down to low rpm with a load on it its like one cylinder goes dead and wont fire again until it revs up a bit, you can tell a serious bog when it does this. Im afraid the dead cyl isnt getting fuel and I dont want to burn it up running it if thats the case. And occasionally itll just shut off at wide open throttle. Could this be the TORS or is it related to my 1st problem? quad seems to have good compression, is stock other than fmf gnarlys and pc 2 silencers, knn filter and jetting. havent had the carbs apart, they did pour fuel when I first got it but it stopped. Its hard for me to beleive its in the carbs cause it runs great most of the time. any help appreciated

looking to lighten up the thumb throttle and I always used a trx90 housing and lever on all my other quads does anyone know if it will work on a shee? I know they make extended levers but I think their hideous and Ive used a twist on a quad before and got the worst arm pump of my life

can you send me pics of the HLS shocks? are they for a yfz or what and what are they set up for? text me at 317 608 7384 if youd like