Zillaguy
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Posts posted by Zillaguy
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How are your reeds? Broken, or chipped? Are you getting spark on the right cyl? The motor could have ingested water, hydro-locked the right cyl, and caused the crank to twist, water doesn't compress. Take it in and have the indexing checked, if it's off have it indexed and welded.
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You didnt google hard enough.
Apparently I did! lol
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If they are leaking out the overflows more than likely the needles and seats are wore out.
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Port work dollar for dollar is the best mod you can do if your into the engine that far, a coolhead, and some VF3's or 4's. That would make a stout machine on stock cyls. Don't over bore unless you have to, you can't put bores back, and you only get a few..
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How many cc's will my engine be with a 58mm stroke and a 64.5 mm bore? Just bought a set of 4mil cyls, and want to know what my cc's will be.. Looked on google how to calculate it, but I failed Algebra..I came up with 37902XX.XXX I know that isn't right! LOL
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Thanks man, can't wait to build my motor!!!!!
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your carbs can be perfect and ether will make it rev up, so stfu already with your stupid advise.
And don't spray ether into a 2 stroke motor, EVER! It burns too quick and hot, causing all the oil to be burned off the cyl. walls, then you have no lube on the piston or cyls... Kinda of like a dry start..
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Buy a billet carrier with tapered bearings you'll never have to replace them again.. They are about $180.00, but well worth the money.. Not to mention they look dope as hell!!!
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I just got one of these axles and am having trouble seating the C rings in the groove. Any tips on getting the C rings seated in the grooves? Also, I screwed up the inner bearing spacer that goes between the bearings. I couldn't get it to slide over the new axle, so I left it out. I also screwed up the bearings installing them. I plan to run the damaged bearings for a short time while I get a new set and a new inner spacer. The bearings seal got cut when installing it. They turn smoothly, but I know they will get dirt in them and wear out quickly. Will running them temporarily without the inner spacer damage anything? What function does the inner spacer serve? The main thing I need to know is how to get the C clips down in the grooves. Thanks for any help or info.
The purpose of the spacer is to keep the bearings from collapsing in on eachother... Without the spacer there is nothing to stop you from overtightening it... When the axle nut is torqued properly the spacer hits the inner races of both bearings stopping them from collapsing... Best thing to do is get rid of the stock carrier and buy a billet one with TAPERED roller bearings... They are way stronger, and will out last the stock type bearings by far. The only difference in set up, is you have to set the preload on the bearings, like a wheel bearing on a truck or old RWD car.
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x2^^^^^^^^^ 2 strokes DO NOT like lean!! It will melt a piston in a hurry, more times than not on the exhaust side.. Winter riding always gets kicked up one jet size main&pilot..
forgot to say.. it happens because cold air is denser, than warm air, and has more oxygen content.
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okay....doubt you did it purposely...but I cant STAND when people use z's on the end of a word to pluralize it. Degreez......what the fuck is that haha.
But to answer your question, that's not that bad of fuel consumption for a banshee. These are not 4 stroke motors.....we constantly spin our motors up to twice the revs of most 4 strokes.....and remember....we are running twin carbs.
Also....YOU MUST REJET YOUR CARBS WHENEVER THE WEATHER DROPS. These bikes take ALOT of maintenance and a lot of upkeep to keep them running strong, and hard. Your bike might be running really "excellent" right now.......but realistically...it could be running lean and hurting itself everytime you ride it. Remember...its 2 stroke nature to run stronger as you lean it out (and leaning it out can hurt it quick).
x2^^^^^^^^^ 2 strokes DO NOT like lean!! It will melt a piston in a hurry, more times than not on the exhaust side.. Winter riding always gets kicked up one jet size main&pilot..
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^^^^No shit!! lol ^^^^^ Stock pipes??? That makes no sense..
stock pipes in the winter...
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fuck ebay.. use a site sponsor! Their prices are nearly the same and will pick up the phone when you have questions or issues!
which site sponsor? I'm new this site.
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Alot of people are saying 4 mill w/stock cyls.... I think that sounds the best for this build... I have a set of used stock cyls (.050 over, 65.25mm I think) that I got for basically free. Who should I use in Michigan to do the stroker porting? Would this be a good base kit http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-BANSHEE-DRAG-4MM-STROKER-KIT-CRANK-PISTONS-6600-/140922071895?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20cf9c2b57&vxp=mtr
I'm not going to use the spacer, but it seems most of the parts are there... Minus domes, a port job, and correct base gaskets, to get my squish within spec.
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I have always done my own port work.. You don't need to go radical on them to get power... Start out small (i.e casting clean up, knife edge transfer ports, and intake bridges, polish the exhaust port to a mirror finish, make the main intake port rough, to keep the fuel air charge "tumbling" which keeps the fuel atomized.) If you want radical take it to someone who has done it more than once.. Cyls aren't cheap!...
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You won't want a cub most likely if your goingto be doing lots of trails
Do you think it won't be trailable? Do the motors have overheating probs? Or are they just finicky?
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I got a good vito's 4mil crank with 110 rods if your interested
Looking for a 115 rod crank, but thanks for the offer man! This site is pretty sweet, alot of helpful people, some bad mouthers, but that is to be expected on the intrawebs! LOL I usually just ignore those people!
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I forgot you can't bore Nikasil cyls.... I should have remembered that from my snowmobiles. my ZR800 had chrome bores, when it was ready I did a D&D 1050cc big bore to it. The sled is stupid fast, I can't keep the ski's on the ground, it made it very un-trailable.
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I am looking for a stout trail bike that will come out and go to Bull Gap/Mack Lake alot over the summer. This is going to be my beater, I can beat/break and not care. I was looking on ebay and found a Serval set up with pistons for $1100 new, and a crank that appears to be Chinese maybe, real cheap like $360, but i'm not sure about it. It's a 4mm stroke 115 long rod. Found domes for $60 and a tz maxload kit for $80. the shift star is modded, i have hinson basket, inner, and pressure plate, barnett clutch, pro design intakes no crossover or bullshit bottle, vf3's, 3/8's spacers, pro design head,fmf golds, but have a set of CPI in frames for this build. Also 28mm pwk's.
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That's what I was thinking was to go used.. I really want to go 421 on it, I have been watching ebay for used 68mm cub or serval cyl set-up... I have a line on a welded 4mm 115 rod crank for $250.00 or do ball joints on dudes F-350 (labor only of course). i already have full gasket and seal set, and 3-bond. I can do the bore/hone myself. So basically I need a used cub or serval cyl, a crank, and some new pistons/rings/pins/bearings/clips? I do most everything myself if i can, as far as technical and mechanical. i am a state of MI. and ASE master certified automotive and motorcycle mechanic, 18 years experience, and own Reliable Auto Repair of Wayne. I have been building custom cars and bikes my whole life but am new to banshees.
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trying to keep the entire build around $1000-1200, that serval top end is outta my price range.
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I'm in Michigan....I live in Westland, but am from Romeo/Rochester area.
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I want to build a 421 motor for my trail bike.. It doesn't have to be the best of the best.. I know I need a 4mill crank, but which one, 115mm rods or 110mm rods? I also know i need a 68mm bore, will the Athena 392 kit work with a stroker set-up? Will it need a spacer plate, or can I run cut domes in my Pro-design cool head? Can I run a Pro-Design cool head with the Athena cyls? Right now this bike is 80 over with egg shaped cylinder walls and i'm not interested in repairing them, so replacement is the only option. ANY advice on parts would be appreciated.. I have had Suzuki's and Maico's all my life, and have only been into Banshee's for about two years.. I know what makes power for the $$$ on LT's and the old Maico 490's but am still learning the tricks of the Banshee trade! Thanks.
motor singing jingle bells to me and kick start is kicking back = /
in Banshee Repairs and Mods
Posted
Imapct is the easiest way to loosen and tighten that nut... Just be careful not to over tighten it, just a couple small burps w/the impact and it will be tight.