01shee350

70 Watts I think

needle is stock says 5n7 or something like that on it, i heard 115-120 was good compression for a new rebuild at 2000 elevation

brand new pods with outerwears with no time in dirt, new v3 reeds, carbs completely gone through float set at .21 (+/-), i do notice when i do a WFO run in 6th after i stop smoke comes out the pipes like crazy for about 10 seconds then goes back to normal, ive never experienced this. im thinking maybe needle and seat could be bad. it doesnt leak through the carb overflows unless i do a WFO run but it just drips out for a few seconds then stops. it was leaking through the crank seal at one point because the crank gear nut was lose but after adding rtv to crank gear key and torqueing down the nut it was fine and passed the leakdown test. the banshee was very neglected from previous owner but its still in great shape, just everything was lose, missing bolts, air leaks, but it recentley had a rebuild to stock spec and has 115psi both cylinders, new crank trued and welded.

its about 3 mm needle is in 2nd grove up from pointed end, 1 grove down from middle i meant go leaner on mains and maybe richer on needle or get a different needle.

With a vacuum leak wouldn't it be running lean? Leak down test is good lost a little less than half a pound in 6 minutes

this is starting to irritate me so bad, im running 270 mains and doing 1 6th gear pull and doing a plug chop and the lil ring is still a tad bit dark, should i go 260's? everyone else i know in my area who has banshees that are running the same setup minus they have t5's instead of fmf's and are running 280+ mains. and it seems like when i pull the choke out one click it has more mid. my needle is 4th clip(richer). what should i do, go leaner? temp around here is 80-110 15% humidity 2000 elevation. mods in sig. any help guys?

well maybe in august or september or whenever it cools down, just trying to find out how many bansheehq members are from the vegas area and we can get a riding trip together.

trying to find out whose all from vegas area and would like to start and nice little get together going to armagosa dunes.

It may be to much ride time, about 10 min, I had to ride it to a spot to hit 6th but shut it off after 6th gear pull

here are a few plug chop pics from 2 6th gear pulls then shut off and checked, they seem a little lean to me but wanted to ask first, if their lean should i go to a 290 or 300 main, mods and specs in sig

ok changed to 27.5 and its perfect now, only thing i seem to notice is about half throttle if your just cruizin and ease into it seems to bog or hesitate, if i go WOT throttle it picks up perfect but if i ease into it (1/4-1/2) it hesitates or bogs then picks up, very slight hesitation but still noticeable, any way how to check if its lean or rich in mid throttle or should i just start messing with the needle

thanks ill change those after i get off work and see how it does

well got my main jet dialed in, but working on pilot or maybe needle, when i go to take off( letting out clutch and start moving) it seems i have to give it a little more throttle to get moving than i remember or its very boggy of idle-1/8 throttle, but after that it rips, pulls wheelies in 4th no problem but just when i go to let out the clutch it seems boggy. dont have pics of the plug chop but its a beer bottle brown and at the base its white myabe 2 or 3 mm. mods and jetting in sig. any advise guys. thanks

Also if it has internal motor work or porting ask for receipts. If you never rode a banshee you will never know if its ported or not, timing stock or timing plate, stroked or stock. In my opinion everyone is out to screw you over when selling a Wheeler that sounds to good to be true. Anything for a sale.

Banshees don't have fuel pumps

I paid 1700 for mine with fmf pipes. Stockers usually sell for around 1500-2000 depending on year and condition. But if they got decent motor work can't find them less than 2500. And yes they're selling. At least in cali, vegas, utah. But be careful don't buy any bike without a compession check. Check fluids make sure its decently clean and make sure they use coolant not just water in the radiator. Check for frame damage. Bald tires, leaking fluid, suspension hasn't been greased since new, filter very dirty are usually signs of neglect.

well got the clutch cover and noticed something, the nut was completely lose on the crank that holds the 2 gears, backed all the way off and stipped all the treads on just the nut and was rubbing the clutch cover, and all clutch bolts were the springs were were backed out about half a turn, i immeditaley called the guy i got it from, i told him what was going on, he said it was just rebuild new hotrods stock stroke crank, new wisco pistons, new EBC clutch right before he sold it to me, which i asked him if its been rebuild and all he said was new topend, so he lied to me on that, i went over to his house and he showed me the receipts on that rebuild from a local dealership, i may have rode it 30 min like that would that have ruined the seal or can i just torque that nut back down and try it again. it didnt smoke to begin with when i baught it, just recentley started.

well its the crank seal, damn, what gaskets and seals or bearing should i need for this

well i am going to do a leak down test tomorrow, i decided to take the carbs off and check them and the clutch side carb manifold was completey damp with gas with gas resting on the manifold , what causes that

ive also noticed when under WOT for a decent about of time in 6th and then let off they both smoke equally(very light smoke) but only for about 10 seconds then it goes back to smokin bad on clutch side and not smokin at all on the stator side

well after getting her all back together ive noticed the clutch side exhaust(right) is smoking alot even under throttle , and the stator side exhaust(left) is not even smoking, this is after its warmed up. the right side smokes so bad it fills the street, no air leaks, new v3 reeds, new UPP manifolds, rebuild both carbs, new k&n pod filters, compression is 110left/112 right, im at 2000 ft elevation. im just worried that the crank seal is leaking but havnt noticed trans fluid level going down but ive only rode it for 30 min, some pics and videos of the banshee. carbs are sync'd as good as i can get with eyein it out, plugs are br8es gaped to .0028, third pic down is a video or her running. any help guys plug on the right is the stator side which isnt smoking, plug on the left is the clutch side which is smokin alot, it may be a lil rich also i may drop down to a 280 or 290 main

there new springs, to me it seems like when the both adjusted correctly at idle one opens faster than the other at about 1/2 throttle. it doesnt make any sense, i ordered a new cable so hope that helps

oh i had no idea they werent needed, well this will clean up my motor a lil now, sucks i baught all the factory hoses and what not for the vent system already

this has been bugging the shit out of me, and cant seem to find any pics of how there properly routed, i got the bike and it didnt have the rear case vent hose and the vent hose by waterpump was just laying on the case. i got the proper hoses but cant figure out were the hose by the water pump routes under/over and if the rear vent hose should mount over the top of the carbs or run on the case up the jugs and what not. i understand they tee together by the head and then route up front. and also is the lil hose that comes out of the head to the radiator supposed to mount throught the wire bracket or under the frame rail?

no TORS, has twist throttle, i tried sync'n them but i think the cable has stretched or something i can get them right, i think one side of the cable is longer than the other if thats possible, i posted in the repair and mods section on that, ya timing plate is a must soon when i get some extra cash, this banshee has cost me alot so far, paid $1700 and have put $900 into it. 350 of that was v3 reeds and pod k&n filters tho.