fastkid

Now why can't we all pay it forward more Power comes from pipe, port configuration, and combustion chamber (dome / head) in my opinion. As Long as your air / fuel ratio is good I don't think carb brand matters. Personally I wonder why lectrons aren't everywhere. They're soooo easy.

The msd I was referring to, was the old msd enhancer, the stator would keep the battery charged. Battery was only used for starting. Do they still make these?

I've heard many say pwks make more power (few hp) then lectrons but as far as pwk vs the mikunis, and even lectron for that matter, I'm sure you'll never hear a definitive answer. I know k&t ran mikuni in a lot of their stuff, a builder who has set tons of records. On the opposite spectrum (keihin) a&s used these all the time, also set records. And even for the Lectron fans, Packard ran these and also set records (keep in mind these builders were usually competing against each other, whether it was the hill or 300ft).... Each of these builders I am sure had a dyno easily at their disposal, and I am sure they have tested each carb to see what they liked most (fuck who wouldn't if they could...), and they all came to different conclusions. If one was better wouldn't everyone run just that carb? The power difference between the three most be so minute that in the real world, the only "best" carb is the one you decide for yourself. Each brand will do great things for you set up properly, as these builders and many others have already proven. As for your original question (mikuni vs keihin), my builder is choosing mikuni over pwk. And trust me, he has a dyno, and his decision is preference... Hope this helps.

I've heard multiple people see gains with a msd ignition.

Where are you located?

I started a thread years back over on planetsand. Great info and advice. http://www.planetsand.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/1038433/2stroke_Nitro_101#Post1038433

It's a bunch of pieces in my house at the moment. I'll start a build thread once I get all my aluminium anodized and new powder. It's a ziggy chassis.

That's why I said just run a stocker a few pages back that it wasn't worth it. Didn't realize batteries were such a pain. I take things literal too often, apparently. Don't like to miss out on a tip from someone more experienced if they have logic behind it, not being a smartass

Could you elaborate why? Does starting a bike take a lot more power then just running one? Why wouldn't you just remote start a 300 ft bike too if it's a lot easier?

Dry cell be able to give enough power to a msd all day without any drop in power?

Can you run any form of stator or convert a oem to power a mad without a battery?

I have a hill bike I am building at the moment, once I am finished with it I'll have a rigid built for 300ft. But the rigid will use the same power plant. Anyways, a msd is for someone only doing timed drag events due to battery limitations?

So for a guy who drags in the dunes 95 percent of the time a msd wouldn't be worth the battery headache I take it. FFs, it's almost 2014 and the best battery is a ghetto drill battery.

How long does a drill battery last on a msd?

Was a ballistic battery one of the ones you've tried? A lot of drag motorcycles seem to use these.

Which batteries have you personally used, and why are they junk?

Anyone know the best lightweight batteries available for using an msd? I remember seeing a company a few years back that had ones that were around 15 ounces, but I don't remember the name. Any quality lightweight batteries out I could use for a msd ignition?

Much smarter men have took the time to do the testing and publish a paper about this shit. They don't try and sell a product, they publish results and science.... Back to the topic though, anyone know the cub vs wampus weight? Wampus casting is definitely lighter but is it significant?

Don't ask me, that's what the paper said.

I've read SAE papers that have shown power increases on kart engines from cryo'n the when thing. Off topic but interesting

Well if menz can run a 3.58 on a 421, without a jockey (yes he ran this on his own bike too) then this is a very valid and important discussion we're having at getting faster. Fast is fast, and that 421 is running with large twins, and it's mainly due to power to weight. What have people done on the inside of the motor to lighten?! Any adverse effects on performance running light internals?

Just so we're clear I meant only the spring. A ti spring would cost about a grand? Some times even a dune bike is worth making light as possible. In my opinion it's more satisfying to build a little bike and beat a 14+ mill out in the dunes then build another big bike to match the power and beat them that way. I'm just a fan of tuning and efficiency not how big of a crank I can fit in my motor.

Want to elaborate oh wise one

Whats the weight of a coilover shock with a ti spring? what would you recommend for a drag application? I think the shaw is to stiff natured to really give you good traction at launch. Seems to just blow the tires off.

Yeah locktite ftw I guess. How extensive have people got on lightening the motor? It is the heaviest part after all. Using crank trigger vs flywheel, titanium rods, flat top pistons, titanium sprocket nut, lighten cases, lighten crank, ect.... What's been done, how many pounds been lost?