bryan b

Appreciate the info guys. I couldn't see all 3 of us having some thing wrong. I will say that engine ice does work. It kept them cooler than the 50/50 antifreeze. Next step is billet hi flow impeller. (has to help a little bit) Also, what is the best gauge set up for temp? I have searched around and seen radiator caps with gauges, some people used automotive type gauges with a home made splice in a hose. Whats the most cost effective and per say best way to do that.

Could the air temp being hotter than heck possibly lean out the jetting at all? Just a thought. Some one smack me if im being dumb.

Yes i have. It does sound lean being the 2004 has same jetting and less mods. My outer o-ring on my cool head started to leak a little saturday so we pulled the head and replaced the o-rings. I carry a extra o-ring kit for it. The pistons looked good, plugs good, cyl walls good. My engine has bout year and a half on it roughly. Been jetted that way for the whole time. We went to the badlands in Attica IN bout a month ago and road the $hit out of them constantly and never had a problem.

Hey guys, me and some friends took the shee's down to the dunes in Waynoka this past weekend. Of course it was HOT. Up there in the low 100's. Anyhow. All 3 of us had heating issues. None of us have temp gauges(thats gonna change). We could only ride for bout 20 min before they were hot and had to find a shade tree to sit under for a while. When i say hot i mean you could feel the heat and they were all 3 starting to run sluggish. We pulled plugs on all 3 and we all were jetted pretty well spot on. Elevation from where we normally ride is 803 and elevation at Waynoka is 1500+ or - a few. Im trying to figure out if its some what normal for them to overheat in that kind of weather or if some how all 3 of us have issues. 2 of them(the 2004 & 2000) you could hear the antifreeze boiling in before we changed to engine ice. Even after the engine ice they still got hot. Never boiled but still HOT. The mods to the bikes are all listed below. When we ride we are normally running fairly fast, 3rd, 4th and 5th gear normally. We do slow down and run the trails sometimes along with playing on some dunes. Any input on this would be great. Thanks We did drain the 50/50 antifreeze coolant out of them and checked all 3 impellers being they were still the plastic ones. all 3 were still in good shape. We filled them back up with engine ice. that seemed to help some but did not cure the problem. All 3 run 32:1 93 octane with bel ray H1R Syn oil 2004 Shee 65.5mm bore, stock head, stock radiator, stock impeller, stock carbs (260 mains), pod filters, stock gearing, FMF Fattys, lightened flywheel, stock timing. 2000 Shee 68mm bore, stock head, stock radiator, stock impeller, stock carbs (350 mains) this ones a little rich yet, pod filters, 13 tooth front sprocket, FMF fattys, +4 timing, 4mil storker. 1997 Shee (mine) 66mm bore, Trinity stage 4 cool head, 20 cc domes, aluminum oversize radiator,stock carbs ( 260 main), stock gearing, stock air box with K&N and no lid, +5 timing, FMF fattys. All bikes except the 4 mil have had plug chops done and are right on. The 4 mil stroker was a brand new engine built the day before we left. so didn't have much time to do a chop before we left. Did one while we were there and its a little rich with the 350 main in it.

Hey guys, working on a buddys banshee. New motor and trying to see what a good start point would be for jetting. Elevation 803 above 66mm bore, 4mil stroker, head milled 20 thousands, fmf sst pipes, +6 timing plate. Running belray h1r syn oil, pod style air filters, stock carbs, Stock porting. just looking for what ya all think will be a good start. also, we are going to Waynoka this weekend. The elevation change is from 803 to 1500 ish. If we are good at 803 is the increase to 1500 enough to have to rejet? Thanks in advance.

Well everyone the problem has either been fixed or just gone away. Here is what we wended up doing. We pulled the carbs back off and went through them making damn sure they were clean as a whistle, then installed a tors delete kit and re-jeted to 27.5 pilot and 290 main. We put new plugs in also and cleaned all the connections on the wiring for grounds and so on. removed the brake switch also and synced carbs We fired it up and adjusted the air fuel screw and it now runs great. So i am not completely sure if it was in the TORS, Carbs or a bad connection but some times its best to just start over. Thanks for everyone's help. its off to Bluff Creek ORV park in Oskaloosa IA this weekend now

nadda, look at my post just above yours. we kinda fixed some of it but not sure what the hell we did lol.

Didnt have the park brake unhooked but had the Tors unhooked. And we are running a clean air filter. When we have it int he shop we are starting it with out the air box on it and makes no diff. It has got a little more confusing. We put his coil and stuff back on his bike, with the old plugs and so on. Did not change anything else and hooked up the park brake again. It fired right up and ran like a champ.(WTF) he took it out for a spin and it ran great. BUT...........after 10 min of riding it now runs like a streak of SH_T in the pipe but loads up on the low end and pops out of the left bank. so we have now done a 180 on where the problem is and we have changed nothing. We will get it figured out but damn this is nerve racking!

just talked to my buddy. so far he has swapped out the CDI and the coil from my bike to his and no change. Next up is disconnect the parking brake and if that dont work swap carbs.

we already unplugged the tors system, including the black box. didnt have the 27.5 pilots till today.We have a problem with the local Yamaha dealer not ordering the right shit. we will put them in also tonight along with the 290 jets. Im gonna go through the carbs again tonight and see if i can find anything again. Other than that im gonna start swapping parts 1 at a time from my bike on to this one and see where i end up. Was hoping to make it to winter before we did the top end.

you think thats the prob even tho it was a sudden change in performance? It was just like you hit a light switch, not a gradual thing.

Howdy all, got a strange one here. My buddy has a 2004 shee, engine is all stock, we put a set of FMF Gold Series Fattys on it over the weekend. We re-jeted with a 300 main 1st, that was a bit rich so went to a 280 main(didn't have the 290 jet available). That seemed to be working good, it ran great and plugs looked good. Pilot was left at 25. tjis bike has done something int he past that i kinda thought was strange. When its cold after you start it up and warm it up it will run a bit sluggish which is kinda normal till she warms up but it would make a small pop, more like a big gush of air soon as it warmed up. After it made the little pop it would run great. but before that it would be sluggish. Any way on to the story here. We took both the Shees out for a little spin, Both were running great. We ran them for prob 10 miles on the dirt roads just goofing around. Got back pulled the plugs and they looked a nice chocolate brown color. They were brand new plugs also FYI, Any way we let the bikes sit for about an hour then fired them back up and went to go for another spin. My buddys 04 Shee that we just put the pipes on made it about a mile running great then it was like you just flipped a switch and turned off the power band. We brought it back to the shop(running). Pulled the plugs and it had fowled the left cylinder. So we put a new plug in. it ran good for bout 30 sec and then quit firing on the left and backfired a few times. So we did the following in this order. Compression test left side 105psi.......Right side 105psi Leak down test.......Held 10psi for 10 min(may have lost 1/2 lb) Pulled reeds and inspected, they are fine. Pulled carbs off, checked floats, checked jets, cleaned. Checked choke tube, its on there and clear and no splits crossover tube is there and tight checked spark on both caps, good blue spark swapped plug wires new plugs in both sides unplugged tors brain box and tors connections. None of the above made any diff. We kicked on it for mabe 20 times and it would not start for nothing. Pulled the choke out and fired right up. Died again, again we kicked it a few times no start, pulled choke out and fired right up. then I was checking to see what the exhaust felt like at about 1/4 throttle. the left bank is just a light stream of air, the right bank has a good pressure feel to it. at idle i can hold my hand over the left exhaust outlet and the bike will still run, if i hold my hand over the right bank the bike dies. it also backfires out the left bank some. So, what ya all think here? Ran out of time last night to swap parts from my shee to this one for trouble shooting but i am kinda thinking fuel delivery issue. Reason being you have to choke it to start it now even when warm. elevation is 760 ft only mods are the fmf pipes and no air box lid. uni filter still has tors

i did the same thing the other day. tested mine and it came out to 60psi. Tried another gauge and it some how found another 65 psi. Get a diff gauge and retest. it might still be tired but il bet your gauge is faulty.

May be a dumb question but will i have to do any re jetting when i install my cool head. Compression will go from 125 to 150/160 range. Thats all im changeing is the head.

10-4 thanks

i asked earlier about what the per say limit is on compression for pump gas and you replied there are alot of factors there. i have fmf gold series fattys, no porting, 125 psi currently , 32:1 mix with belray synthetic, afr screws are out 2 turns, elevation is 798 ft, +4 timing. just trying to see how small a dome i can get and run pump gas.

798ft is elevation.....................what all factors in other than elevation and cc size of the dome?

so 20cc domes would be good for pump gas. What the limit per say on compression for 91 octane?

Send me a pm. And do you have to have longer head studs for the trinity cool head?

Lookinga at buying a cool head and was wondering if one brand was better th.an the other? Also what dome sizes can you run and still be on pump gas? Im putting out 125psi curently with factory head. Bike if for trail/dune riding. Has fmf fatty pipes, k&n single air filter with factory air box and no lid. 300 main jets with 27.5 pilots. Stock carbs.

Hell it might just be me. We read the book very close and set the carbs the way the book says and got the same damn result. Might be one of them things i just need to walk away for a day or so and come back with a new game plan and a clear head.

It has tors but not for long. Ordered tors delete kit tonight. I think they are screwing me up. The cap gaskets were good. And the windows seem to be tight. We did get it to idle for about a min. And everytni g was doing great BUT then soon as i reved it up it did the same dang crap. Tried to idle at like 1/4 throttle and the carbs wernt in sync no more. Was pulling 6 out of right side and 5 outta left side. Said to heck with it till the delete kit comes in tuesday.

Ok, have been fidling with this for last 2 hrs. Had to re adjust the floats on one side. The right side. i was useing the carb tool i got from FAST and At what i would call a good idle cause i dont have a tack it was pulling 5.5 on right and 6 on left. We got the temp gun out and the left side pipe was doing 114 degrees and 92 degrees on the right. Left side smokes a little bit and right does not. When you rev it up it never goes back to the same rpm. It will run at like 2000rpm then after 20 sec go to idle or it can run at 3000 for 10 sec then fall down. Its Got new plugs in there, gaped the same, they are withing 5psi of each other on comp test, reeds are good, exhaust is sealed good, carb air screws are 2 turns out, and the carbs are synced far as cables go. I need some help here. Im suppose to be leaving for Waynoka thursday morning. HELP!

Well i got a new tester ans sure enough 125psi and 120 or just a shade above 120. My question is now. Why wont it idle? It trys to idle high then low, carbs wont sync very close. Carbs have been rebuilt and pressure test shows no loss.

Ok, il go get another tester tomorrow and a buddy is gonna bring his which is same as my current one. Its a tester from oriellys so not sure how good/bad they are and i have had it for 8 years or so. Will post on results tomorrow.