chrispy56

Cdi is in oem location

Their Hotwires do, not their coils...not mine anyway.

Cdi grounded, both black and red/black. Black/white to normally open kill switch, orange to coil. Coil is mounted to an aluminum piece of angle, bolted to oem location. Nology coil is what looks to be high impact plastic, so I can't imagine a difference weather it is against bare metal or not....should it be grounded?

yes, fresh powdercoat. But there is continuity between frame and motor.

The racetech stator tested fine within oem specs. Can a stator act up and still test good? I do have the stock one and will try it out within the next few days. Although the lighting circuit (yellow and black) on my stock stator in open (resistance=out of limits), this shouldn't effect engine performance, right? other two circuits test good.

Green/yellow wire not connected. Leak down test-plugged exhaust, pressure gauge on one intake boot, pressurize 6psi through the other. Held 5psi for several hours. I tried resistor plugs with same results (nology recommends non resistor) Similar problems with that stator?

Okak. So, here is the problem I am having with a new 4mil build. Starts up 1st or 2nd kick every time. Idles smooth. Lots of smoke during warm up and always pissing oil out the pipes. Just a little stumble midway though when revving in neutral. When I go to take off it just surges (can't think of a better word for it). And I am unable to rev through it. I have adjusted jetting in both directions and the plugs show the changes but the problem still remains the same. 4mil stock cylinder HJR w/mx hardcore porting Noss head, domes for pump gas- 32:1 castor 927 Billet intake with built in crossover Vforce 4 Nology coil, Hotwires, b8es Racetech stator and set pickup gap correctly New oem cdi Uni 2stage pods w/outer wears Fmf exhaust Pingel 35 mm pwks Currently with 158 mains, 52 pilots, cel on middle, 1.5turns I have also tried pilots down to 48 and played with the needle clip. Haven't touched the main since it can't even rev into the top end. Leak down test was good. Not sure what else to check. Would a bad flywheel cause this issue? Any other ideas?

Definitely don't want to purchase a new setup. Thanks jmadd. I will try your idea.

I have a boss intake with crossover. Hasn't been running very well and after much frustration found that the intake was leaking past the oring that seals the two parts together where the crossover is. The oring wasn't completely sealed in its groove and must have been pinched when put together. Needless to say the oring isn't "o" shaped anymore. I have searched for a replacement with no luck. Anyone know where I could find this?

Awesome! I will report back after installation and some ride time on it. Thanks Evan.

Sounds good. Order has been placed.

Have there been any fit up issues on different aftermarket adjustable timing plates. I have one from HJR (not sure what brand) and would like to know ifs it is compatible.

Yes. They do a 396. But they dont give much info about it. I was hoping someone on this forum had some experience with a similar setup.

WOW! OK. I didn't really gather much info from those replies...So, in other words when in the 392-421 range , two 35mm carbs or better are needed? n2otoofast4u-Trinity

Has anyone used a 2 into 1 carb set up with a cheetah cub 392cc or 421cc. I have a 35mm pwk on my stock engine and I am happy with it. Would a 38mm work with the 392cc or 421cc? Also, how much stroke will the case allow for before I need to clearance it?...The 421 uses a 4m crank