Chip M

Thanks for all the input. I will check my cap resistance but it seems I will be fine with the standard plugs. I do not have any special electrical mods that require the resistor plugs. You guys are great help. I appreciate it. 96 Banshee-64.75 mm bore V Force Reeds/Cages ProDesign Cool Head-19 cc Domes FMF Gold Series Fatty's- Powercore 2 Silencers K&N Air Filter-stock box w/lid-no snorkel Timing +4 Presently 260 main jets-27.5 pilots 100 octane @ sea level-80 deg. F Hard trail / MX style riding

I have been buying the NGK B8ES plugs for my quad. I see some post where people are using the BR8ES plugs. I was told they are a resistor plug. Do they run differently than the standard plug? Also noticed today in my manual it says to run my premix at 24:1 if using the yamalube-R and 20:1 using a Castrol 2 stoke oil. I started my new topend out on 32:1 and was thinking that 20:1 as per manual was more than I have read anyone using. Any thoughts?

1) What type of aftermarket exhaust do you have?........ FMF Fatty's PowerCore 2 Silencers 2) What type of airfilter do you have?......... K&N 3) Are you a)running a stock airbox with lid stock airbox with NO lid c) Stock airbox with vents d) no airbox at all...........A 4) What is your elevation? (If you don't know, go here: http://www.topozone.com ).........@ sea level 5) What size pilot jets are you using?.... 27.5 6) What size main jets are you using?.... 260 7) What temperature is your Banshee jetted for?........ 80 F 8) Do you have a port job? .......no 9) What kind of carbs?.....stock mikuni's 10) What size carbs?....26's

Good call on the coolant drain BEFORE loosening head bolts Larry. Is exactly what I DIDNT do yesterday. Helluva mess. Good luck Sechristaaron!!!

How to say this with a little tact....let me think...........................................................................................I wish I had a flush button for some replies. I feel like someone just shit all over my post.

I do not know too much about the process. This was my first attempt at the tester and the test itself also. I have read that you need to be careful NOT to go above the 6 psi for the reason you stated.

Yes stock carbs and cylinder

Got it. I am on my way out to the garage to get started. I will update to show progress.Thanks to all for the replies

Thank you so much for all your help. The leakdown test was done just before I tore it down to find the washed piston. It held the full 6 psi for 10 minutes before I released pressure. I will check all surfaces before my assembly and do the coolant pressure test as suggested. I found the laser etched 19 on the domes. I can get the 100 octane at a local sunoco and I will try it out after I figure out my leak but I think since I only run trails and do not race I will opt for the bigger domes. I think 22 cc was a suggested place to start. The squish explanation really helps me to understand what is going on with the changes I am doing. Maybe if I find too much loss of power after trying out the 100 octane and switching to a larger dome with the 93, I will be switching back. But either way, I now know that it is not smart to run the 93 with present setup. Good luck to you................Chip

Does the dark one look pretty normal for 4 or 5 hours of run time on new piston?

I was not losing any from radiator but when I took of the head I did not drain front hose first(what a dumbass). When I caught what was happening after the head was loose, I snugged head bolts back up to stop flow and pulled the hoses to drain, I then continued to remove the head. Would it wash it off that quick or would it have to wash while bike was running?

Great!!..So it is the entire dome including squish band area. Helps me out alot. We have a Sunoco that sells 100 octane race fuel from a pump. It says up to 10% ethanol. Would I be safe to run it straight? or should I mix with my 93 octane. I have also heard of a shop that sells 110 octane, would that be better for my motor?

When I pulled my head for squish test I found a big difference in the looks of my pistons. They have about 4 or 5 hours on them. I was thinking to see some burnt oil because I know i am still running rich but should there be so much difference? They are very smooth, no pits, just color. All opinions welcome!! Leakdown test was sweet and carbs are sync'd only by eye but it seems to run/idle well and sounds good all though the gears. I do think it is missing some of the power it should have. Sync tool coming soon. 96 Banshee-64.75 mm bore V Force Reeds/Cages ProDesign Cool Head FMF Gold Series Fatty's- Powercore 2 Silencers K&N Air Filter-stock box w/lid-no snorkel Timing +4 Presently 300 main jets-27.5 pilots 93 octane @ sea level-80 deg. F Hard trail / MX style riding

I got my squish test done today hope you guys have some input for me. I was not getting the power I think I should have after rebuild but the shee is new to me so I have nothing to compare to. The leakdown test was great, I lost no pressure. I did the compression test and had 165 one side, 162 in the other. The squish test showed .044. I cannot find the numbers on the domes so I have no idea what size they are. How can I check them? Is the bowl shape suppose to hold the amount of liquid in cc's? If that is true,I assume you just fill the bowl shape, not the squish band area to check true size of domes?. Whatever the case, can someone explain to me(or direct me to link) how the squish/compression/octane go together. I would really like to understand the differences or advantage/disadvantage of this part of my build. If I am missing some information that you need to make sense of this to me, please let me know. Thanks 96 Banshee-64.75 mm bore V Force Reeds/Cages ProDesign Cool Head FMF Gold Series Fatty's- Powercore 2 Silencers K&N Air Filter-stock box w/lid-no snorkel Timing +4 Presently 300 main jets-27.5 pilots 93 octane @ sea level-80 deg. F Hard trail / MX style riding

(2 pcs.)freeze plugs adjustable from 1 1/4 to 1 3/8 inch (2 pcs.) 1 inch PVC Sch.40...cut at 2 1/2 inches long (2 pcs.) 1 inch PVC caps... I used sch.40 but sch. 80 would give you more meat to thread when you tap it (1 pc.) Low pressure tire guage....mine had threads holding the tip on that you are suppose to use to check tire pressure (1 pc.) Screw in valve stem total cost less than 14 bucks Be sure to check the thread size on both your stem and gauge or you will have to adjust instructions to suit Drill the ends of both caps with 21/32 drill (I used letter Q drill but 21/32 is easier to find). Then I tapped the holes with a 1/8-27 pipe tap, I have heard you do not need to tap you can just screw the stem and gauge in to cut threads but is up to you. If you use a tap be careful not to thread in the full length of the tap. It is tapered and will make your tapped hole to big and the threads on the stem/gauge will bottom out. You want the stem/gauge to lock down on the taper of the tapped hole before you run out thread on the stem/gauge. Cement your caps on one end of each of your PVC tubes. Primer first is a good idea. Push on all the way and hold for a minute. Now you can screw in your valve/stem. I used a little PVC cement (blue is good and thick) to make sure I had a good seal. Put very little cement on the threads of the valve/gauge and be careful not to get inside of the stem/gauge. I used a Q-tip to apply cement. If you think your holes came out too loose, teflon tape will tighten up a loose hole, before the cement of course. I cut the grooves in mine in a lathe. They match the grooves in my carbs and just let the tubes snap into place. I do not know if they help seal, it is just something I did because I was in the lathe when I made mine. Not necessary. Good luck with your build.

Jereme, I had thought the same thing when I was shopping for a gauge to use. Most of them were 0-150 . I felt lucky to find a 0-30 but actually wanted a 0-15. I have seen them online but could not get one locally. I checked it at 10 psi before I installed it in the tester and it was very close. I will keep my eyes open for one but the leakdown went well this time. Thanks for the input.

I just wanted to show (off) the leakdown tester I finished today as it was you guys idea anyway. I hope to have my squish down numbers by tomorrow and I will post in hopes of some ideas to what my problem is. If anyone has seen my recent posts I seem to be low on power but sounds strong and idles good as well as runs though the gears with no bog or break-up. My compression is 162/165 (way too high?) and is what I thought a relatively stock machine. Leakdown test holds pressure without any drop. Many thanks to all that have helped me this far and I will have the squish numbers tomorrow. I cut some radius grooves in the tester to fit the boots like the carb does. Gotta love the knobby tire pressure gauge. lol....Thanks again 96 Banshee-64.75 mm bore V Force Reeds/Cages ProDesign Cool Head FMF Gold Series Fatty's- Powercore 2 Silencers K&N Air Filter-stock box w/lid-no snorkel Timing +4 Presently 300 main jets-27.5 pilots 93 octane gas @ sea level-80 deg. F Hard trail / MX style riding

No I have not checked the squish clearance. I have read a little about it but I need to find a link to give me good instruction. I assume that the solder needs to be near the edge of the piston where it comes up to the head, not in the center where the bowl shaped dome area is. Can this all be done from through a spark plug hole or do I pull the head, lay it in, assemble, squish and then pull back apart. I hope to be able to find a video of it. I do not know what A/F tune is unless you are talking about my carb jetting. 300 mains 27.5 pilots. Kinda new at this but I really appreciate all your help

I looked when I rebuilt it but I will pull the head and look again. If they are not stamped and I was to buy new ones, is 20's what I should try first?. The cylinder has not been ported but I will be sending to Jeff at Fast for a hard trail port job. Aiso, do I need to get a new set of O-rings if I just replaced them when I rebuilt a month ago?

Also found this link to my ratio vs. P.S.I. issue. This helped me out alot.....ummmmm NOT!! http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/power/pp105.htm

I picked up a new compression tester today. I have been having some trouble with thinking I am lacking the power I should have. I posted a topic called "plug question" yesterday that listed all the details and I got some really good clues to help me out. I see the manual says 6.5:1compession which did not do me much good as a starting number. I checked without carbs or pipes on and had the plug in opposite side when checking. I do not know if that is an issue but my compression was 162 psi on the left and 165 on the right cylinder. It is a new rebuild. These numbers seem really high from what I read. I do not know what size domes are in my coolhead and did not find numbers on them anywhere. From reading I gather that my domes control the compression along with the condition of my bore, pistons,ect. Can someone tell me how to determine the size of the domes I have and if my compression is close to where i should be? I run 93 octane gas only. Thanks for your help. 96 Banshee-64.75 mm bore V Force Reeds/Cages ProDesign Cool Head FMF Gold Series Fatty's- Powercore 2 Silencers K&N Air Filter-stock box w/lid-no snorkel Timing +4 Presently 300 main jets-27.5 pilots @ sea level-80 deg. F Hard trail / MX style riding

No, I have many things to learn for sure. I need to get the toys to check all the essential information to have a sweet running Banshee. In the past I have just done top end rebuilds, this was my first top and bottom end rebuild, and never a Banshee. Building the leakdown tester today and I will get a compression test gauge and also the tool to sync carbs. After reading your post about the test, I really started to think about the compression. I was very careful about everything being clean and flat when assembled, and also checked the bore size for roundness and size before ordering piston and rings. I even mic'd the new pistons when they came in.lol. Even with that in mind, my troubles could be explained if I still have low compression. Back to basics, I will check the compression after leakdown test and hopefully get my answer. It is great to be able to read/relate other problems and replies in here. Many heads are better than....well, you know. Thanks much

Those are just from standard rippin through the woods. I would guess they have 3 or 4 hours on them. I will do the plug chop after my leakdown test and get it back together. After reading some of the posts I am thinking now I should go ahead and drop a size or 2 on the mains before the plug chop. My real problem is the feeling that it does not have the power it should for as good as it starts and sounds running 1-6. Shouldn't a banshee with the bolt ons I have try to stand up if you wind up first and grab second....on the street? I was hoping so, but the last one I had was one I bought new in 1988. Long time and many miles ago. Thanks for all your help guys.

No, not smoking much at all. I have a little when it is first fired, more on left side than right, but evens out when warm. After warmed up good, it looks like typical 2 stroke. I will have the leakdown tester done today, hoping it will give me some answers to my lack of power issue. The plug chop will be soon after. Maybe I am expecting too much. I wish I had something to compare to. I hate to go back to jets similar to stock, that is what it had when I bought it, but also had the wasted piston. Thanks for the input.

Yes I have some 290's and 280's also. I started out after rebuild with the 300's to be safe. It had stock 200's and 25 pilots when I bought it, along with a melted piston. lol. I have been waiting to do my leakdown test before i continue with the jetting. Do you think my lack of power could be from running too rich? I will be sure to try to lean it out after I am sure it has no leaks. Thanks. I should have also posted the K&N air filter with stock box, full lid but no snorkel