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ya i dont have a giant pipe wrench. probly head over to sears or ace hardware and see what they got

i got similar problem. sprocket hub piece is alittle loose. hoping i can just tighten the big nuts and be good. now to find a wrench that big

coating is one of them things that its the owners preference. i havent had much luck with that stuff but i never tried the line2line stuff. got a few wisecos sitting around with that armorglide crap they put on. first thing i noticed is the thickness is never consistent. box says you should have about .0025" clearance but ive measured several new ones and theres .001 difference between coating thickeness. other thing i noticed is it dont last that long before it wears down. so if you have .003 wall clearance out of the box, it wont be long before you have .005 or more clearance when the stuff wears down. seems like the last cr500 i tore down had .006 wall clearance and the engine didnt have many hrs on it, maybe 20hrs im guessing. pretty sure it had about .003 when i put it together if i recall correct. for experiment im gonna take one of the old wisecos i have and see if i can remove that coating somehow. maybe with wire wheel or whatever. because i have new project and honestly dont want that wiseco armor glide crap on it so im hoping i can remove it before i install the piston. couple years ago i tried swaintech on a old piston to bring the clearance back to acceptable range but never ran the engine long enough to know if it holds up or not. it may offer a buffer against tuning error but i only seized 1 engine in my life so ill be fine without it

why would you put a coating on ? sounds like his pistons are a few hrs old, took everything apart for some cylinder work and wants to throw the pistons back in. i dont see where theres any problem. hell i would probly reuse the rings also if theyre only a couple hrs old.

shouldnt be a problem reusing them. for the hell of it you might just throw a micrometer on em to be sure nothing funny happened like a collapsed skirt or something like that but other wise i would reuse them. check for cracks also. wisecos are pretty tuff though

im assuming you use a castor oil. ive had problems with that stuff when it sits in the bowl for a while and turns to syrup. then has a hard time going through the small orifices. mostly the pilot jet is where it was clogging up. emptying the bowl after a ride seems to have solved the problem for me

normally i throw the tank screen in the trash and use clear inline unit. visufilter for gas engines. hell with all that paint strainer nonsense. methanol engines i use billet filter. everyone said my shit would burn up and melt down. ya well theyre wrong hahaha. got one of them clear filters sitting around i could probly see what the volume flow difference is with and without it. im betting the difference is almost not worth mentioning

something else i was thinking about. if your concearned about the head walking, wouldnt some locater pins work best ? if its lifting, maybe some stronger studs would be in order ? unless the cylinder casting is the weak link and just isnt up to the task.

if you google extruded aluminum youll get 100 answers. send some of them the pics and see what they think the circle thing is. theyre the experts and should be able to know. you say it goes all the way through to the top of the head ? do you have pics of that ? im not a expert in this field but i think the aluminum is pressed through a die to a desired shaped. if its a plug it would of had to be done after the extrusion process. what reason would chariot have to cut a hole and put a plug in there. what reason would the extruder have to put a plug in there. doesnt seem like normal practice for either party to do such a thing.

on the first page where the pics are it shows a white plastic thing with 3 bolts near the front sprocket. i believe the guy calls it a nuetral safety switch cover or something like that. anyways whats it for ? noticed mine is cracked on 2 of the ears where you screw the bolts in. doesnt seem to leak oil or anything but didnt know what the hell it was. can the 3 bolts be taken out and that plastic piece be replaced with a new one ?

i was going to buy one then realised i already have it since its the same puller that 1000 other engines use

this is a updated gordon jennings chart. it should work pretty good for any beginner. ive never used it personally because i have a program that figures everything out. i think its based on info from blair. but i wouldnt hesitate to use the chart as somewhat of a guide

its pretty easy for even the greenest of tuners to see a decent power increase on some engines. mainly because theyre in such a low state of tune to begin with, that most anything you do to the cylinder results in more power. 250r, cr500, banshee, blaster all come to mind but theres many others. the newer stuff from ktm and even honda wouldnt be nearly as easy to gain alot of extra power unless you were highly experienced because those engines are already tuned fairly well right off the showroom floor. 20yrs ago the 250cc engines were not even close to 50hp. now you can roll a ktm off the showroom right to the dyno and lay down 50hp with just a couple carb tweeks, so its not so easy to get a bunch of extra power unless you know what your doing. report back how it runs. im curious to know. these twins are all new to me but im learning more everyday. just got my clymers manual today. should be able to adjust the chain by tomorow

i cant say with certainty anyhting is wrong with them numbers. put the engine together and try it would be my suggestion. if it dont run as expected then go to plan B. anybody thats done their own porting will likely have a few cylinders laying around that didnt work out like they planed. got a couple doorstops myself but i would try to look past just a timing number though. heres the reason why. you said you wouldnt go past 32bd but how wide is the port and whats its shape and is there aux windows. lets assume you have a stock cylinder at 194 exh and 60% wide and 120mm roof radius. youll have X amount of bd area. now if we have another stock cylinder at 194* 100mm roof radius and window is 70% wide youll have more bd area, add aux windows and youll have even more bd area. so even though both cylinders have 194exh and 32* bd, one of the cylinders would have a shit ton more bd area. if you read some of the books they talk about angle area and time area and stuff like that .

youll have to fill me in how you ended up at 194/130. do you have a spacer plate in there ? im thinking your blowdown will be insufficient especially because you have no aux ports and your main port probly isnt real wide. a port timing number only tells you how long the window is uncovered or partially uncovered in crankshaft degrees. it doesnt have anything to do with the width. if you notice on the previous page why i really widened the exh above the transfers.

no brah. only gonna port it up to 130hp. after i figure out to adjust the chain of course

never used a spacer on a banshee but used them on other engines. never had a single problem. spacer under banshee cylinders should be no different. just use a good gasket material and you wont have a problem. not chinese junk paper from the hardware store. normally i use alittle sealer also but you might get away without it

what cylinder you talking about ?

oh ya and i threw in some super techniplate with 91/112 sunoco. it seems to like it

hey guys got my first banshee yesterday. '03 bone stock. seems to run pretty good. tranny shifts good. clutch works good. anyways i got a factory yamaha service manual for '87-'01. im assuming '03 is the same basic bike or was stuff different ? is the clymers manual better ? this yamaha manual looks like a bunch of photo copied pages from 1970. cant even see the damn pictures. the chain is on the loose end and needs adjusting but im not exactly sure how and i cant see the pictures. also im wondering if the engine has a vibration point somewhere in the rpm range like a single cylinder ? at idle its smooth. between about 3k-4k rpm theres a buzz then above about 4k it smoothes right out. this is basicaly how single cylinders are depending where the balance factor is, wasnt sure if these twins are the same way

does tdr make the crank wheels in house ? i was under the impression they were made else where, perhaps over seas, and tdr just does the assembly

i did this one just recently. its nothing crazy but makes for a good duner. 192exh around 90% wide. staggered transfers alittle under 130 and widened a bit. changed the trans angles alittle bit. slightly reworked head. compression ratio barely over stock. modified stock reed cage and custom petals. 41pwk with sunoco gas. overall theres no large sacrifices in any one part of the power range. runs decent on the topend and pulls fairly well below the pipe. for what it is it'll go up the hills pretty well. ive built some faster but they arent suited nearly as well for the average guy looking for a good duner machine

whos better flotek or KOC ? or they both numnuts ?

its a solid plan. never had to do it but it would work where im at

at 7ftlbs theres no way it could break the tower off. i have no explanation why it happened. maybe the prior owner fuked it up some how ? use loctite if you want. i see no reason for it but its your call