totalimpact

its up on the fleabay if anyone wants to check it- https://www.ebay.com/itm/174153227531

any takers?

I have a brand new full setup from top to bottom for Driveline Performance 421 Assassin. Something came up and I need the money more than the parts unfortunately, they are out of stock right now, so I might have one of the few available. I have: 68mm HP cylinders Custom pistons Wiseco cut just for Driveline, Cool head with 23cc big bore domes for pump gas, this is Drivelines stealth head which looks stock but is a cool head (this head+421 cylinders makes whole motor look totally stock). might have the 4mil crank brand new (in factory box) welded from HJR, someone has a tentative offer on it already. All parts are brand new in the box never been installed. Ideally I want to sell all together. Ship or pickup from San Diego, buyer pays actual shipping costs. Complete Top end: $1050 (includes head) Crank $415

Did you ever sell these jugs?

he might have been sold one of those jerry/jimmy rigged kits that comes with the 4mm thick base spacer that goes under the cylinders, in that case you wouldnt need domes cut for 4mm - but this is a crap way to do it, it screws up the port levels completely, motor will be all out of wack and probably make a bit of low end power with a huge loss on mid-top end. Most engine builders charge $70-90 for the proper 4mm domes, check through the sponsor page to see if any are near you and maybe you can show them what you got - http://www.bansheehq.com/bansheehq-sponsors/ I took mine to HJR, Kevin did a beautiful job setting up my 4mil, its exactly what I asked for, smooth power all through the band at a very reasonable price.

Thanks for the tips guys, I will hit it with acetone and a stainless brush and bring it over to the metal shop to see what they think. If I have to break it down, I have a buddy that works in the maintenance shop for the county, they have a water cooled unit there, but the gov wont let him work on dirt toys. That Miller looks like "lemonade cooled".

The porting needs to be done for a 4 mil, if they were previously ported for a stock motor, the port levels will be incorrect, running a thicker base gasket will jerry rig it in to working, but you would make far more power with a properly portted set of cylinders, and a set of domes ground for 4 mil. Also - you cannot "re-port" a previously ported motor to convert it to 4mil porting, they need to be virgin jugs

I am aware it may have other hairlines, but it appears to be completely broken off and isolated just to that area that was un-supported underneath - I wont make assumptions, but at the moment I am in the middle of 3 other bikes (favors on 2 of them) among 99 other projects. This bike wont get 25 hours this year, so I am going for the quick fix... hopefully a deal will come around for a set of cases later on. My only question- can it take the TIG with the motor intact, or will it overheat seals or something?? I am thinking if I drop a short bead and let it cool for 15, then drop some more bead it shouldn't over heat??? I funneled some gas in behind it to flush out as much gear oil as possible, then blew it with compressor to clear out gas, hoping its cleared out enough not to ignite any oil. Obviously a single kickback could destroy it even if it was brand new - so repaired or new I take close to the same risk.

meant "starter shaft" not "stater shaft"... guess i cant edit my own post

So I picked this bike up for my wife to ride, previous owner said it was "punished", cleaned it up, changed all fluids, synced carbs and put 2 desert trips on it with excellent running... was adjusting the clutch and found the case cracked behind the stater shaft, I bet someone engaged the kicker while running or some shite. In my mind this shouldnt warrant a new case, so I am just up in the air about splitting it, I think I can fix it without pulling the case, super short on time. I see 2 options. 1. TIG Weld 2. JB weld I think TIG would be best, but can it take the heat is the only question?? I was thinking to minimize the heat to not even weld in the shaft hole where its broke, instead pre-cut a chunk of aluminum to fill in the hole underneath where the webbing is, just take a couple quick shots with the TIG and weld the chunk to the underside of the broken piece to just kind of hold it up. Or... do the same method with JB, shoot a ton of brake cleaner at it, drill a few shallows holes and scuff it for the JB to grab into, and wedge a chunk of steel or bolt up underneath to support the shaft hole, tape over with duct tape, and fill the entire cavity with JB. Better ideas, thoughts?? Click to enlarge

when you say chain and guard - do you mean the guard at the crank, or the one at the rear axle?

might also consider some sb shearer - inframe on all, its a dune/trail bike.

Hey Dave - which Savage are you talking about? 420?

Nice, but I think SB would be better for my stock bore 4mil.

looking for some pipes - rockets or cpi

looking for a deal on some pipes if anyone has them

bump

how much for the throttle?

This is a Trinity Stage IV head, my new 4mil kit came with a cool head. Comes with all o-rings in good shape, and cylinder surface freshly polished with 3m pad. The tops side has a few nics in it, but would look good after some buffing. $140 shipped OBO. I also have a complete and new dynojet stage 3 kit (for K&N pods), which comes with: jets: #270, #280, #340 (2 each) needle: DNO304 (6 position) $65 shipped OBO goes on ebay in a couple weeks if no takers - ----

I will take the harness if it takes a 6 pin CDI plug

I have stock reeds, and was wondering if intakes modified for vforce reeds would be ok for my stock setup - i would think not.

intake boots are gone?

do the intake boots include the screws or carb clamps?