volvo63'

Thanks guys that helps a lot.

Yeah I did put oil in it. I mixed it standing beside the bike so I am sure that I didn't get the wrong jug. But shouldn't there be some kind of oil residue in the carb?

Yeah, right before we took it on the first break in run. It smoked just a little bit, but for 20:1 it sure didnt seem like it was smoking enogh then though.

I got some klotz super techniplate upon recommendation for my banshee. Apparently when we put the bike back together we still didn't have the jetting up high enough, so on the third break in run it started detonating again. As I was taking the carb back apart, i noticed that the gas in it had no red tint in it what so ever, and there was no oil residue in the carb. Since we mixed 20:1 for break in, this had me all confused. Does the oil just not leave residue or tint gas, or is it not mixing with my gas?

Ok guys, I just bought my banshee and its the second two stroke that Ive ever owned. I got one good ride out of it and then it blew up. Well we put it back together and on the third break in run it started running on one cylinder. We took it back apart for another rebore and found that an o ring had been wadded up in one of the oiler ports. After all orings were accounted for I found that it had to be from the crank. I had just put a brand new hot rods in it the first rebuild, but it baffled me that it used orings to keep the bearings from spinning instead of the press fit pins. I found that the bearing on cluth side of the crank had spun and shoved the oring up through the oiler port. Now there is no scaring or anything on the case, but with a new o ring the bearing in fairly loose in the case or spins kind of freely. What do I do?

Im a little different because I run a single carb set up. But I run a 6 in long by 5.5 in wide round k&n pod. Then I put a a foam prefilter over it. The foam stops up quick, but its cheap so I just carry three of them. They last me a good long ride easy.

It's one of my favorite too.

Thanks guys.

I don't plan on running a 17, but I currently run a fifteen and it rubs and I had to modify my case saver to accomodate it.

I know that all of these threads are one here about what oil you guys use. But I would like to know the differences between running castor 927, benol, r 50, and super techniplate. Which one of these would you recommend for a slightly modified trail banshee? Also, is klotz flex drive wet clutch compatible?

First off, does anyone know where I can buy a titan racing case saver for a 17 tooth sprocket? Second, can anyone tell me where to get a dipstick like the one in this picture?

So were is the best, cheapest place to get a good stock stroke crank?

Does anyone know who makes the cranks sold on Motor City Atvs website?

I am a first time banshee owner. I just pulled the pipes off of my bike and there were no o-rings. Do the t-5 pipes have the built in o-rings, or due i need to get some new ones?

Sorry, I found a billet one for five dollars more so I went ahead and ordered it.

You are making me want one of these motors so bad. That should be an insane power band.

Where do you get stock ones?

I am currently in the process of rebuilding my banshee. It just blew up so I removed the impeller cover and found that the impeller was not the problem but it was pretty well wore. So I was wondering what impeller to get. Should I go pro design or chariot, and if chariot, high flow or ultra flow??

Yeah, I figured out as of a couple weeks ago what happens when some retard that you buy your bike from sets the timing at +11 degrees.

I just bought a banshee with a 2 into 1 Trinity stage 4 carb adapter. The bike just blew up, so I added some new stuff. It is a stock stroke, .020 over motor with t5s. It has either a 35 or 36 kehien with an 8in k&n with a foam filter on top. I have no idea where to start on jet sizes.

Thanks. I just know a little because I was raised around cars and machinery. I was running a fork lift when I was six. This guy that I was talking about taught me how to build a motor. Whatever you have to do to a boat, it is 10 times easier on a car, 100 times on a four wheeler.

Thanks guys, I'll post some pics after I get it all put back together. I've already got a clymer repair manual. I was going to go back to two carbs, but the guy that is helping me is a certified omc, mercruiser, and evinrude technician, and he said that it would be in my best interest to just stick with one carb unless I went to a big bore. Also, I am running low on money right now because some guy was going about 70 in a 45 and t-boned me. But I am just 15 and the only witnesses left before the cops showed up, so it was ruled as my fault. We both had liability, but I am having to pay for his anyway to keep my insurance down. I've just had a bad two weeks. Also, I am currently running 93 at 32:1, but I am going buy the local shop to see what they charge for 104 and 110. The guy helping me said that we are going to be setting the compression around 130.

I forgot to add that it also had a set of works shocks, so I think that it was well worth $2000 anyway.

I just bought a banshee two weeks ago. I was told that it was supposed to be a 4mil with a 421 eleminator kit. I noticed when I went to look at it that it had the stock jugs. So I asked the guy about it and he said that it was just bored out. I didn't know whether to believe this or not, but I bought it anyway because it was just $2000. It is a 2000 model with, t5s, trinity 2 into 1 carb adapter, either a 35 or 36mm kehien, prodesign coolhead, new clutches, renthals, lowering kit, msr clutch, dg bumber and grab bar, and three sets of wheels and tires. Anyway, I rode it for about a week. Then one day I was trying to catch my buddies and noticed that it was running on just one cylinder. Then it just died. I just got done tearing it down yestarday and both pistons were totally melted. On top of being blown up, it was the stock crank and only a 65mm bore. Then I just happened to notice that it had an aftermarket timing plate, and it was set at 10 degrees. Also, someone had tried to port the cylinders with a hand file. I just bought a new a new set of stock cylinders and the piston kits. So now I need to know what the timing should be set on and about what size jets that I need. Also, my water pump impeller was starting to melt. I was wonder if adding one of the billet impellers with the stock radiator causes electrolysis to eat the impeller.

So would you guys recommend a serval or 10 mil cub or this cylinder? Also what's the big difference between the interchangeable reed sizes.