Kilhoffer

That i dont know. Im also curious whether it has larger domes or just getting wore out. My plans are to get it back together for fall and ride it. When it gets cold ill bust it down. When you are talking comp vs comp ratio is there a formula for the ratio?

I wasnt sure what the compression was when i bought the bike a few months ago. Safer than sorry. Now that i finally got it checked ill more than likely just run 91 or get smaller domes. At what compression does it become necessary to run higher oct fuel?

Anyone know about where i should set my ignition timing? Hotrods 4 mil cool head vforce2 ported stock jugs stock carbs 120are lbs compression 110 octane It was set at +5 but wanted to get some more opinions

Got the flywheel pulled. The key was sheared. Props on that call. Thanks

I got one oredered is it possible to have timong problems in just one cylinder? Im only having a backfire on left side. Well its more of a misfire until fumes build up in the exhaust and ignites making a whoosh sound.

Oh and who here has a good supplier for flywheel pullers and sync tools

Sorry guys, it took a little longer for me to get into the bike then i thought. Here is what i found out Couldnt get the flywheel off so im ordering a puller. Turns out it has a timing plate set at +5. pickup appears fine and flywheel key looks fine but ill learn more when i pull it. One this i noticed is the plugs seem to be wet and reeds are almost dripping wet after running. I also notice fuel is blowing back into the airbox. Backwards of the direction it should be going. My hunch is that it is running really rich but when i lean the needles it gets worse. Can domeone point me in the right direction for main jets? The one in it now have no markings. Im 2000ft about 80the degrees Correct me if i am wrong, if i were having ignition problems wouldnt it affect operation at all rpms? Im only have problems when holding throttle steady at half throttle Thanks for your help

Carbs are synced by visual sight, i dont have a flow meter. In fact i purposely put them out of sync favoring on r cylinder then the other hoping the backfire would switch sides. It made no difference. I will take a look at the electrical stuff this weekend and check the crabk seal whilr im there. Ive heard they can draw air sometimes. I was told the crank was welded but never been that far in the motor. Is there a way to check the phase without pulling the crank out? Thanks for the help ill let yall know what i find out

Guess I should also mention 4mil Hotrods Ported Stock cyl Vforce 2 T5's Cool head Unknown domes Stock carbs 310 main, I believe

So out at the dunes one day the banshee started what seemed like getting warm and backfiring badly out of one cylinder and less severe out of the other. Only backfires from about 1/4 throttle to 3/4 throttle when holding throttle steady. Idles fine and when pinned will take off though not as it used too. Tried new plugs Put new needles and seats as they were seeping Head orings are good and sealed Jets are clean 120 lbs compression 110 VP with bean oil as I have always ran Checked for leaks around intake with ether Reeds are in good shape The best solution I found was to set one needle jet second clip to the top and the other at the bottom. This makes the bike run a lot better but raises concern and still isnt right. Any pointers would be greatly appreciated Thanks!

Got one laying around? Let me know and how much! Thanx

Yup vforce3 reeds and cages. I see a lot of 34 pwk's will one mill matter in the end? Essentially what is the effects if you are too big or too small?

I'm working on a dune built and my next step is getting some new carbs. 4mil hot rods crank dune ported factory cylinders cool head 20 cc domes I believe +4 timing Will there be any benefit of getting some new carbs or is there something else I need to get some more power? And about what carb/size should get me in the right direction. I'm thinking pwk's but how does a person go about getting the right size and what all factors are coming into play here? A little off topic, what is the proper "squish" for a 4 mil with cool heads, sorry im not sure what pistons are in there right now.

Taking the turd out for the weekend of the 19th. Anyone else going to be there? Good chance to ride before winter hits.............

Either of the nerfs have heels guards and are they alum.?

Thanks for the input. I have been doing a lot of homework on the subject and realize that cast pieces contain more impurities (i.e silicon) than billet and can make "blotchy" finish. The prodesign heads are billet so that will not be an issue but the carbs are cast. They are stock carbs so ruining them will not be a big issue as I really need bigger ones anyways. As far as the aluminum turning black, as far as I have learned, it will only be black if you dye it that color, which you can dye it any color you want. I will definitely look into it further but my guess is every piece of aluminum is an alloy of some sort. My main concern is anodizing aluminum makes the piece much harder, in return more prone to crack under high stress situations. I'm wondering if the heads will be under too much stress. In my head I am thinking grey and white plastics, black powder coat frame, and maroon/dark red anodized aluminum accents. My cousin will make some custom graphics to match. Go or no? Thanks again

I'm getting set up to do some anodizing at my house. I was wondering if anybody has done it before and some helpful pointers. Also, will anodizing heads harden the product to a point of failure under normal heat stress and is there any unforeseen issues with carbs? Thanks guys

I'm looking for a project duning banshee and ran across this deal. Keep in mind that this bike does not have a motor in it but comes with all of the following 2005 banshee in fair to good shape 4 mil cub /w pistons new still in box cool head, unknown dome size two cranks both stock three transmissions, one overide but unknown who did the work three cases, one trashed two stock cylinders both in good condition 12 paddle haulers on alum. wheels snow tires on alum dirt tires on alum cpi inframe full exhaust K&N fuel pump 38 mil alky carbs, unkown make at the moment +4 chrome swing arm for $2500 I know that there is a lot of unkowns at the minute but I am wondering if this is a good deal(I know the cub cylinders are around 1200 new) and/or this setup will work 4mil cub cool heads + ?______? domes ?______? reeds and cage 38 mil alky carbs ?_____? mil crank welded and trued stator w/ ?______? advance cpi exhaust stock transmission and what your opinion is to fill in the gaps. Keep in mind I am looking for a machine to rip up and down the dunes opposed to a straight line machine. I have messed around with four strokes my whole life and feel a need for change of pace. So, this top end setup is all new to me. Thanks guys for your help in advance