Ray J Neal

No, old basket still. $$ is tight right now, all expendable income has to go toward marketing my shop, since we are still new.

Well it's back together now, I figured I would put a video up on the noise.

Are you kidding. I guess being a Master ASE tech I am a bit too technical for you?

Not to jump in and hijack this thread, but I've battled high temp issues as well. Not to the point of boiling over, but checking with an IR temp gun, the head reads 220-235 and I shut it down. I've had the cover off and checked the impeller as well as the nylon drive gear. I'd like to take it a step further and SEE the flow for myself. If I remove the large hose from the radiator and cap off the radiator, would I be able to see the flow that way? The large hose to the head is very hot, and the lower hose from radiator to water pump is quite cool. I mean c'mon, the radiator can not be that efficient.

If only some people knew how to read as good as they knew how to be a condescending smart ass. My question was if I cut it (with a grinder, place in a vise and drive the pin out) with the suspension at rest, suspended or loaded. This will affect tension, you know. Anyone, for the rest of you who gave decent advice, I got it finished.

Like the title said, I need to cut the chain, how am I doing it? Regardless of what I added, I have an overize chain. I figured that was obvious. But yes, it has a +10" swinger, and a drop.

Hey guys, everything finally came today so I can finish the stance of the Shee. Should I sit on the banshee to have the suspension at ride height and ratchet strap the grab bar to the axle, then lay out the chain and cut? Or should this be done with the suspension relaxed, or completely unloaded? Sorry guys.. -Ray

Canceled the DID x ring order, pissin' me off. Said in stock, and when I called they're waiting for it to arrive to them so they can ship it to me. I saved myself $100 and ordered this http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ATV-MX-Motorcycle-Drive-Chain-520x150-520-x-150-Link-/250710906312?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a5f88d5c8#ht_1075wt_941 Anyone think I should be scared of a cheaper chain? If it seems ok, I will order a few more of them. BTW, here she is so far..with my shops name photoshopped in -Ray

My point is this. If your vehicle operates between 180-215 (what you see on the instrument display), if you shoot the top of the cylinder head with an IR thermal gun, the reading will be higher. Measuring temp at the top of the Banshee head, what would be acceptable. Maybe next time one of you is out riding and sees their water temp (by gauge) around 190-200 or wherever you prefer it, take a reading at the cylinder head. I am curious.

What I am getting at is when you say 180, you're talking water temp, right? So you're actually over 200 at the top of the cylinder head. That's what I am asking. Anyone able to give me an acceptable temperature when measured at the cylinder head?

Then the guys who are running inline water temp gauges say they shut down around 220, are actually reaching much higher cylinder head temps.

I was checking on the side of the head, next to the spark plug. Possibly my readings are way off.

I just had a revelation. I am getting my temp readings (200 @ idle) with a thermal gun pointed at the top of the cylinder head. 200 at the head is not the same as 200 degree coolant, correct? Where are you guys getting your readings? I assume a gauge placed inline with the flow of coolant?

The o-ring looks fine, but I'll go match it up at the hardware store. It wouldn't be good to have coolant enter the gearbox ATF!

Stock clutch basket bushings can't be replaced correct? And the billet will have replaceable bushings?

It is not the kick start arm rattling. I should have added this in the original post, and I will edit it now for clarity. The bought this banshee from a guy who just had a new crank, head, piston set, etc just installed at a Yamaha dealer not even two months ago. SO, this would have all been apart when they did the work. EDIT: Wheres the best place for these parts? FAST Racing? I need steel bushing, front and rear washer..might as well get circlip as well. That's it?

While the new-to-me shee is down for the next few days waiting for a swingarm extension I decided to investigate a noise that is intermittent, noticed at idle in neutral. Again, it is intermittent. It is loudest at the right side cover, near the kick start. It sounds like a rattle, ratcheting type of noise, and gets somewhat. It comes and goes. It is only there at idle. Maybe it is normal? Don't know, but I thought I should investigate it while it is apart anyway. If you change the video to 1080p it helps with the clarity a bit. I imagine a bit of RTV around the o-ring for the water pipe would be a good idea on reassembly?

Definantly. Ordered a DID x-ring chain in 520 x 150 and an 'ebay special' 520 x 150 non o ring.

The cheapest I see is for $160 by Boss. Is that the one? I am thinking about getting on inline temperature gauge for it as well. Is it normal for me to be running these temps? I am going to drain the cooling system, flush it and refill. Around 185-190 I can hear the radiator gurgling when I shut it off. Coolant should not be doing that at those temps, unless there is an air pocket. The radiator hose off of the water pump outlet is luke warm at best, while the fat hose from the cylinder head is HOT. Is this correct? I'll be back soon to check back with ya'll. I'm headed back to the garage to tear it down. My +8 swinger and other goodies will be here Friday. -Ray

Is there an acceptable temperature range for normal operation? I measured the cyl head at 201 degrees F after idling for about 8 minutes. I image this is acceptable due to no airflow across the radiator. It is a new-to-me bike so I removed the pump cover, clamped off the hose and let it idle for five seconds to ensure proper operation and no slippage. The plastic impeller was replaced by a dealer during a bottom and top end rebuild the P/O had done two months ago. I image these hot temps are acceptable if it is idling, not moving for an extended period of time? What is an acceptable temp range, and a danger range? I live in the Midwest, no tropical climate weather here. Thanks Ray

Hi everyone. I picked up a Banshee this week and began going through it to set it up for back yard drags. I have a +8 swinger and +10 brake line on the way. I need to order a chain sometime today, but hate to spend a ton. The bike has a brand new Yamaha chain on it. I need advice. The stock chain is 520x104, and if the links are 1", I am adding a +8 swinger so I would need an additional ~16" of chain. A 120 chain SHOULD do it, but that's cutting it too close for my comfort. I prefer to stick with an o-ring chain so I am not constantly battling a stretched chain. So, I can get a DID x-ring 520x150 for $120, but that's hard to justify right now. The bike has a brand new chain. Is there anywhere I can get a two foot section of o-ring chain and just add it in with an additional master link? I am looking for alternatives to spending another $120 right now. My pocket book has taken a hard hit this week. Thanks Ray