01banshee09ltr

Thanks for the input, your absolutly right. Before reading this post i mixed up 2gal pump gas with 1 gal c12 and a 45 pilot in my PJ 34mm carbs and shes firing up with good consistancy and running like a raped date. Im stoked, shee had me stumped for a little bit, until i started talking with my foreman at the shop about fuel. I went home drained the fuel and ran this new mix and to my suprise im in the ballpark of some bangin combustion lmao. Thanks for all the help guys, shees back running like a shee should. SMOKIN THEM 450s, SMOKIN'M

I had a moose racing boost bottle hooked up, then put the old stocker back on and made no difference. I can start it up and it will run hard till i shut it down then wont start back up, i pull the plugs and they are "soaked" with fuel. They come out carmel in color but wet. Would timing play any roll? Maybe the timing needs to be advanced to ignite it more efficiantly? Before i rebuilt the top end i had 22cc domes and could run the c12 with no problem, at the same time i was mixing the c12 50/50 with 93 pump fuel. During rebuild i put 20cc domes in and running just c12 mixed with motul oil 32-1 ratio. My compression is 150 both cylinders// timing?

FRESH PISTONS COMP AT 150 WARM MOTOR BOTH SIDES... PJ34MM CARBS PRO FLOW FILTER NO LID ON AIR BOX. I HAVE A 52 PILOT AND 165 MAIN IN THEM NOW, IT WILL START UP AFTER OVERNIGHT AND RUN HARD UNTILL I LET IT SHUT OFF IT WONT START AGAIN. WTF. MAYBE TIMING IS AN ISSUE HERE, IM RUNNING 20CC DOMES PRO DESIGN HEAD. PLUGS LOOK TO BE BURNING EFFICIANTLY BEING THAT THEY COME OUT TAN BUT THEY ARE SUPER WET.. SEEMS TO BE FOULING OUT ...WHY THOUGH...

The carb slides only go in one way.. think maybe its the float valve not sealing when the bowl is full? .....im stumped.....

Hey HQ my 87 has been acting up on me giving me issues starting after the initial start.. Im running PJ34 mm carbs, just last night i installed 48 pilot 165 main at 650" elevation about 35 40 degrees. i run c12 fuel @ 32-1 with motul oil, i just put new pistons and rings compression at 150 on a cool motor. I put a new set of plugs in her, cleaned the carbs nice and good syncd them and started her up... runs great untill a few moments (maybe 60 seconds) she starts bogging and will die if throttle not blipped.. when she dies it takes seemingly 20 kicks to get it started,, but walking away for 10 minutes and comming back it starts... seems like its flooding?? i removed the carbs and found the intake manifold was soaked with fuel, pulled the new plugs and same thing soaked with fuel... maybe the float valve isnt correct or something with the float itself,,, it all looks mechanically fine when apart im stumped!!! Is there anything i might be overlooking??? HELPP

Hey guys i have an update... i checked my compression and its just below 150 on both cyl after i ran the motor for a few moments, it was not a WARM motor but it wasnt cold... i was happy to see they were equal though. I also put 48 pilot and 165 main and it started somewhat easier,, I did not ride the shee i just was letting it idle and blipping the throttle, after a few minutes i shut it down and it was hard to start again.. i pulled the carbs off and noticed the intake mani was very wet! im deffinitly thinking its a carb issue almost like it is fouling itself out. Brand new plugs also wet. i am running the pj carb and the choke is also the idle... when i spin counter clockwise it raises the idle... is this leaning the mixture or richening? Would the needle clip play any role in dumping fuel flooding this motor?

Thanks hearing your jet sizes is deffinitly making me think about mine... i just called the local shop im going to run there after work ill let you know how i make out, hopefully ill have good news and a big thanks for reminding me to look at the simple things first!

I dont want to throw unnecessary parts at it if its simply a jetting issue...

i deffinitly am running rich my plugs are allways more black than tan only cause plugs are cheaper than pistons.. whats odd is that when it does start it runs hard not much breaking up, this led me to think maybe its a spark issue... jets are cheaper than a stator ill give it a shot,,, im at 640ft elevation above seal level

Hey whats up everyone, i was having issues with my shee during startup... when cold it would be easier to start then when warm. i thought some fresh pistons / rings will help with compression, it was at 118psi cold both cyl. Im running blaster pistons with long rod, 66.50 bore, 20cc domes, 34pj carbs, 52 pilot 175 main needle in middle position... it started great after build in 2-3 kicks. after some break in time i noticed its taking more and more kicks to get it running especially when its warm. Maybe electrical? I do run c12 mixed at 32-1 ratio with motul oil. my harness is basically "race" use... just ignition no lights killswitch tors ect... I have not had a chance to test resistance on coil and stator but do these symptoms lead anybody to the thought it may be stator / coil related? i heard the best way to go is oem with stator and its not a cheap part to hope it fixes the issue... looking for a little reassurance before i go further.. 87 banshee 66.50 blaster wiesco pistons long rod cool head 20cc toomey t-5s 34mm PJ carbs open air box pro flow manifold +4 swing arm holeshot gncc all around yfz front a arms + shocks

I ended up using a small battery to power the lights with a regular light switch to control power/also through a few leds in the motor bay being that the motor is polished, at night it will hopefully look cool. I bought the banshee with an absoluty molested wiring harness so i didnt want to dig into it. This was my first forum question i have ever posted on BansheeHQ and i appreciate all the help.

does the regulator connect inline with the power, and does that regulator ground itself by bolting to frame? i have the reg but didnt have it during first test, which blew bulb, got the reg hooked it inline with power w/o it bolted to chassis and blew 2nd bulb... i have to get new bulbs now anyway but i would like to do it correct so i dont blow them again.

Hey guys im looking for ideas on how to wire my banshee headlights straight to the mag if possible, i wired one hot for test purposes and blew the bulb.. b4 blowing the other side i would like some input on what im doing wrong and the correect way to go about it.