salmon_slayer06

Heard lots of good things about transmission mods.. shift star mod, do all of them except the one before... and after the neutral on the star. Shift shaft bearings....... I reccomend the 16mm roller bearing from VXB with an inner diameter of 12mm and 12mm long. Do both sides. Caution..... you may want to remove the bushing before you drill. Or the bit will walk... trust me I know... lesson learned now I have to go and get a bigger diameter bearing and find true center and redrill. Time consuming. Shift drum bearing mod. I haven't installed mine yet, but found the 28mm roller bearing to be the right OD for the current hole in the case. THe ID is 22mm..... I don't know what others have done but it looks like the shift drum won't have enough material in the casting to turn it to this size. I'm kinda stumped at what size bearing is best.... but guys on here do these mods and maybe have more info. Cut every other "dog" on the gears with the 6 dogs. On the mainshaft there are 2 gears with 6 dogs. Cut every other one. On the countershaft theres 3 gears.... these are not protruding like the mainshaft ones.. have some one do it.

My shift forks didn't look bent or have any signs of them needing to be replaced. The inside diameter of the shift drum hole where the bearing will be going is 1.105". The drum shaft outside diameter was 1.100".

I took the main shaft and countershaft assemblies out of the case today. I took pictures of them before I took them apart. I found 3 gears on the countershaft that have 6 dogs. On the main shaft I found 2 that have 6 dogs. I'm going to have someone mill these. I was going to drill out the bigger holes for the shift shaft bearings but realized that I need a certain size drill bit. The outside diameter of the bearings are 1.630".

When you say shift cam, you mean shift drum?

I found this thread while looking around for info and have a few questions... http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=140526 This has to be an old thread, but I found it very informative. I wanted to clear something up first before I have mine cut, or do it myself. Is this the mod that makes the trans shift easier and helps solve the missed gears like 2nd? I haven't done much in modding my tranny except the shift star mod. But I'm about to do a list of things before I drop a stroker crank into this project I have going right now..... Modded shift star Shift Shaft mod.. opeing on end opened up Shift shaft bearings Shift drum bearing mod Possibly replacing shift forks if mine are bent And cutting the dogs off the gears. How many gears in this tranny get this done? 2, or 4? Site has been a great deal of help.....

I ordered the crank, pistons are in. I have the idle gear bushing from FAST in the mail. I didn't send cylinders out yet. I thought about it and think a trail port is all I want. I called FAST and they claim a Trail port will increase performance in low, mid and top. Anything more extreme than that and it will take away the bottom end. Trail port costs 250. With the saved 100 from the case job and extra 100 for dune/ play port, I will use that elsewhere. I'm taking my time and modifying the shift shaft by installing the bearings in the case and opening the shaft end. I may install one for the drum also. If anyone has any detailed info as to what drill size they used on installing the bearings for the shift shaft let me know. I bought the ones someone on here posted, it was a link to a place in California. I believe it was a 12x16x12mm caged roller bearing. And if somebody knows of what bearing size is good for the drum mod.

I'm going with Dune/Play port, $350 and having both cases port matched $100 along with bore and hone 64.50mm $100 3-4 week turnaround.... Any opinions?

I'm calling Jeff right now......

I did not know that Ken had a bad rap on this site. I ran into his videos online of his work and he seems to be a good guy to have working on anyones motor. I didn't have them sent out yet. I've already bought a few things from FAST... which is a site sponsor. Would this be the guy to go through?

J arm banshee Hot Rods trued and welded +4 mill crank (didn't buy yet) Vertex long rod pistons 64.50mm (In the mail) Stock head shaved to...... I don't know yet I need opinion Shift star mod (done) Shift shaft will be getting roller bearings in the tranny Shift shaft will also be opened up on the end near adjuster Toomey T5's (have already) Keihn Carbs, don't know what size but are better than stock (have already) Boyesen reeds (have already, replacing petals and gaskets) Ken O Connor trail port (will be sending out soon) Port matched Case (" '') Stock air box with cover off K&N filter with outerwear (have already) Fresh clutch rebuild stiffer springs. (done) I would like to advance the timing also but I think I better wait and see how she runs first. I need to replace my head, the right side took a hit when the rod bearing went. I can get stock banshee heads without pitting for around 25 bucks. I'm thinking about getting 2 and having them milled at two different heights. What two would be ideal for 93 pump, and the other for race gas and 93 mix? I do all the building myself except the porting and boring of the cylinders. Any tips and does anybody on here have something similar to this build or know of someone with this setup?

I have had good results with these coatings on headers and turbo and turbo manifolds for cars, etc. I have been wanting to get my Toomey pipes done with this stuff. To be exact the 1300 coating. The pipes now are painted black with the Ceramic Paint you get from the auto parts store.... its constant maintenance to keep touching them up. I have been wondering about getting the cylinders coated. This stuff will take abuse from what I see and hold its polished finish on top of it. Just wondering if anyone on here has had this done and do you remember how much it cost?

Thanks for the info. What head would you get? I know of at least 4 different ones... phathead, coolhead, NOSS, and I can't think of the other right now. I'm unsure of what dome size to use. I would be running 93 octane gas with bel ray 2 stroke oil 50:1.

I bought an 87 J-Arm banshee last year. It was in decent shape. I've always liked the banshees, and never thought I'd actually own one. It was fun while it lasted. This summer I had an unexpected problem with the machine. I went up North to go riding for the weekend and had the motor seize up on me. I didn't tear into it right away. Before the break down I installed a new clutch kit. I had all the tools to do the job right and that was installed correctly. But I was wondering if the clutch nut backed off and decided to come off and get jammed in the gears. When the time came I decided to start a complete engine tear down. Off came the plastics, carbs, pipes, etc. I knew right away that the clutch wasn't at fault when I took the right cylinder pipe off and out came metal bb's, or metal type shavings that looked melted. Oh boy... Right away I thought new pistons, new head, bore and hone.... so I thought. Well I proceeded to remove the clutch cover, nothing wrong in there, the stator side.... same thing. Next I took the head off. Right side had divots in the top dome like somebody took a center punch to it all over. The top of the piston same thing. I thought maybe a ring had broke and that caused it. Off came the cylinders and out came the pistons. Left side was unharmed. I stopped right there. I rocked the connecting arms side to side on each and found the right side had a good amount of play in it. Must be the crank connecting rod bearings. Thats as far as I got. Assumeing I need a new crank.... thats where I'm at now. I been sold on the Hot Rods +4mil crank, paired with the biggest pistons I can put into the stock cylinders. Theres a set of pistons that must be used with this crank. I don't know about the head though. Is it useless now. I don't know if its worth keeping the old damaged one, getting it machined to match what I may get done or what. I did like the phatheads racing ones, but kinda shyed away from that company not making them anymore and that they are pricey. So I'm left with what I should do. This is whats on this machine now... A nice set of Toomey T'5s that came with it, Kehin carbs I don't know what size they are but seem to be plenty big enough to flow more fuel if needed, and also has Boyesen Reeds. Bike was always jetted and I adjusted the needles so it never ran lean. The other owner didn't mess with the motor, he did have the top end rebuilt. The original crank must of had just too many hours on it and the bearings must have been original. The type of riding I do..... In the upper part of Michigan we are blessed with the best trails around. In fact there are citys and towns that actually raise money in clubs and donations to prune, grade, and take care of the trails summer and winter. The section I ride on is all sand. Wide, curving sand trails. The same sand as you find in the dunes but even finer. So I always have my paddle tires on this. In fact the ones I have are the infamous Taller Haulers, from Skat Trak, but are no longer made. These were made in the USA and have more paddles than any set I can find. At times on these trails its wide open for a minute, than winding curves with hills, berms, woops. At times there might be a section with not so much sand and I slow down and just let the motor cool off and open it back up once I hit the sand again. I haven't bought anything yet. My plans are to keep the stock cylnders. I don't know who can machine the cylinder head to the proper squish, or whatever its called... but would like to know who can do this and when it should be done. Any info on who does this is appreciated. Now.... I may go this route... Stock crank trued and welded with the Blaster pistons and matching connecting rods. I don't know too much about this set up and I will be looking into it. Also would I be better off to get the cylinders ported and what port job would I want? Who would you recommend? I have been wanting to post this for a long time now and have finally took the time to do it. I have access to bridgeports and CNC machines if theres something I may do myself like finishing the head if I could. So I appreciate the replys and I know some of you on here have a wealth of knowledge on these motors. Thanks in advance. -Jason

I would go up one size on all the jets and raise the needle by one clip.

Thats what i was gonna try doing. its almost winter now and the next time I ride it will be 75 degrees colder than it was in the middle of July. Should I increase the main jet and slow jet by one size?

I have Kehin carbs on this banshee.

When I go to open up the throttle after it has warmed up, the bike will suddenly choke like it has not enough fuel. If I back off a little and gradually give it throttle it will be okay but I still can't give it that snap to get the power band when I want it. I guess you could say it has a mid throttle dead spot. Where could this problem be coming from?

Is there a special tool in removing and replacing the bushings in the upper J arms on a 89 banshee? If so what is it, where can I get one or how do I go about getting them out some other way. Thanks for the info....- Jason