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oprahwinfree

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  1. Simple as that, message with any offers
  2. yeah its in there for good in I was pretty sure that splitting the case was in order. once i get to the transmission do you think ill be able to use a punch to get it out or will i need to find a new transmission. also i was trying to get the clutch arm out of the case and it seems to be stuck. I was following the manual's instructions but i was thinking i was getting cought up on the rod?
  3. Around 4 months ago i welded the ball in my transmisson shortly after football started so i had little time to work on the shee. So far ive takin the clutch and everything off the motor i was just looking for some advice on how to fix it, i was also looking in to getting a serval seeing as i allready have a 4 mill crank but dont know who much of a improvement it would be between a ported 4 milll pods andvanced timing and t5's. -thanks in advance
  4. So i did the adjustment and i still got nothing. Do you guys think its time for a new clutch?
  5. yeah i can push the arm in but it has enough spring to pull its self back though. no brakes in the line, however i did notice that even if i manually push in the actuator arm i still have no clutch (ie. it wont roll in gear). what do guys think i am looking at here? thanks in advance
  6. So today i let one of my buddies(rides a blaster) have a go at my shee. He made a couple of passes long passes on a gravel road until he called me saying that he was sorry because he messed up my clutch. So i ride over to him and he proceeds to tell me that he was just shifting and all of a sudden the clutch lever had no tension on it and it started revving out so he hit the kill switch. Upon inspection i found that the clutch cable worked its self out of the slot it gets held in on the actuator arm so i put it back in and still nutting.The spring on the actuator arm still has tension on it, and it still will go through all gears when i pull the lever or do it manually but my cable still has no tension on it . I'm still pretty new the banshee and have only had one for a little over a month, and have never dealt with a problem like this on my other quads. So i was wondering if my spring on my actuator arm is getting worn, or my cable is just stretched that badly......or some other crazy solution that can only be know by those ridiculously knowledgeable bhq members . All info Appreciated-thanks
  7. alright so i checked it and got an "OL" reading but i also noticed that my flywheel dosent seem to be magnetic. is it possible for them to lose there magnetism?
  8. How would i go about checking for a short to ground?
  9. I Purchased my first banshee a little over a week ago. it ran great for about five rides but two days ago i went to start it up and it turned over on the first kick but as soon as i got off of it and it shut down and hasnt ran sense. After about 6950 kicks and some starting fluid i came to the conclusion that it wasn't getting spark, i checked the plug against the block and the and the frustration began. So i read the banshee electrical faq and broke out the multimeter heres what i found. Stator 27.6 ohms, pick up coil 123.1 ohms, i measured the ignition coil from plug boot to plug boot (correct me if i am wrong on that) 15.5k ohms. the kill switch and key switch both check out fine. I opened the cover for the stator and found some water (must have been there awhile because i haven't ridden though water or in the rain) , the fly wheel was slightly rusted i sprayed the stator the best i could with a degreaser and electric cleaner. i dont yet have a flywheel puller so i cant remove it. i tested the plug wires with a voltage tester and it lit up but very dimly when i kicked over. I know the stator resistance is a little high and the ignition coil measurement i got is out of wack. im just looking for some opinions for further testing procedures or the possible culprit. thanks in advance
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