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Ok that makes sense, I was baffled the other night that it wouldn't move the star all the way. thanks for the pic, it helps.

Ok, thanks one less thing to do.

Thank You!

Running a lockup, anybody use the Toomey springs? If not what are best springs, looking for something easier to pull. 7mil, 95hp

I have searched and can't find any thread expaining or showing pics on how to the shift shaft mod. I don't want to send it out, under a time crunch and need to do it myself. Can anyone help?

I am not new to Banshees but have a new set up and some advice. I am running a 7mil with straight cut gears and a lockout clutch. My shifting mods are as follows: modded shift star, shift pro kit with oem spring. (clutch is new) Last time out which was my first time on a new complete frame up build the shifting was difficult when under a load(dragging) I have always used my clutch and shifted without letting off the throttle. What is the best way to shift this set up? question 2: I have done some searching and have come to the conclusion I need to adjust my eccentric bolt behind the clutch side case. Can I get to the bolt by just puling off the quick change or do I need to drain fluids and pull the side case??

i got one of them fixed, it was a bad connection. i confirmed on the one i replaced the starter that i have power going to the starter so I either have a bad starter or engine is locked up. I am going to drain it to see if my kids have water in it. after that i may have to pull the starter and bench test it. I have heard these engines may lock up sometimes i pulled the plug and tried to fire and nothing ??

OK I know this is a Banshee site, but i also know a lot of us who ride banshees also have kids that ride lt 80 as i do. I am leaving for dune trip in 3 days, it will be the maiden voyage of a year long banshee build if I can get to the bottom of this bizarre lt 80 issue. Bear with me this is a bit long but I am highly frustrated ... I have 2 lt 80s. a week ago i started and rode them both. The last couple trips to the dunes i noticed the starter on the yellow one would scream and not turn the motor like the splines were not engaging. wouldn't do it all the time just some of the time. So before this trip i thought i better change out the starter. got an a/m off ebay and installed it. hit the start button, it turned over a couple times and then stopped. Now I just get a click. Figured it was the starter relay, so i pulled the one off the white bike(my other lt80) and installed it, same thing. Put the relay back in the white bike, thought i better check it and now the white bike does the exact same thing as the yellow bike! Baffled at this point I went and got two different a/m relays one from napa and one from autozone. both do the same thing just a slight motor turn and click.(batterys are good!) I tried to test the starters by jumping them direct with a jumper box and i just get a spark, no turn. trying to think of common denominators they both ran and they both were washed by my kids after that, maybe water got somewhere? highly frustrated please help. thank you

i bought a chinese one, had poor workmanship. Pressure tested it and it was ok. After i got it I was ashamed of myself! Buy American when you can.

Thanks for the help, I will run modded shift star with stock spring.

I am putting together a 7mil motor, clutch lockout, straight cut gears, bigger bore etc. I was wondering if I should install both a modded shift star and the shift pro kit? I have both parts from other motor builds already, however I once had a motor with a shifting issue of it popping out of gear with both installed, removed the shift star(cascade product) and left the shift pro kit in and all was good. Anybody running both? Wondering if the other motor was just a fluke thing? One or the other better than the other?

I bought a new bike and am doing a frame down build, thought I would rebuild top end while motor is out (first time) plus it had a leaky gasket. I was told this is a 7mm crank, I confirmed it has Twister crank, not sure if that is good or not? The cylinders look good so I was just going to hone them(motor ran good when disassembled) I can't figure out the size of pistons the number on the bottom says "W664" the number on the top was tough to read but I think it is "S50 520F 5 6850" there is a number above this one that reads "20503" Anyone know what size they are? The cylinders look to be sleeved, are these sleeves borable it looks thin?

I put a modded shift star and a shift pro kit in my bike once and it had the same problem. Not sure if you have both but if you do its most likely the problem. I took out the shift star and left the shift pro kit and it shifts great.

Thanks for the help, that tells me what i need to do. I need both harnesses, as I am building two.

I am swapping motors out between a 90 and 02 Banshee. Will the 90 wire harness work with 02 motor and vice versa? TORS? I know I should remove the TORS but don't want to go through the expense since I am selling it. Thanks

Thanks for the info, I am buying one already done and its a 7 mill. It has all the upgrade parts I need. Motor, CPI pipes, full bore plastics, +6 swing arm. I figure this will be a lot cheaper than buying all the parts new. I can sell the bike with my old parts for the same or maybe a little less.

I am considering upgrading my banshee by buying a trimmed out 7 mill 420 stroker and exchanging motors and other parts. I have two concerns, one is I am not familiar with the 7 mill. Mostly hear of 4 mills, pros and cons? Second, I will be exchanging motors from a J arm frame to an A frame any hang ups here? Very familiar with the basics of whats needed to upgrade to a 7 mill. carbs swing arm etc. What I want to know is what are the characteristics of a 7 mill and why do most seem to do 4mill? Currently I run a stock motor with porting, cool head and all the bolt ons. +4 swing arm(moving to 6), T5 pipes(moving to in frame CPI's) Thanks for reading.