MorrisJL

How is it the dude needs to trade his banshee....? Just have some patients, save some more green and buy the raptor...I see banshees all over the place for under 3K... depending on what he has, I doubt he gets much more then 3K for his trade in...however I'm a noob, what do I know... and not one to talk about not trading...I traded a 2002 R6 for my banshee

I feel bad for anyone who has to put their toy up for the winter... As of right now I'm in Alamogordo NM, doesn't get to cold here for more then a few days at a time...normally. Its been damn freezing this past week, -10 F going to work yesterday, but today it will be in the low to mid fifties... Red Sands her I come...with a jacket.

All, Thanks for the replies and suggestions... I ended up going with the MTL clutch saver.... Its really all i could find in this small town...I wanted to go with the Honda HP, but couldn't find it. ATF didn't seem like a bad option, but because I found the clutch saver I didn't go with it. When I changed the trans oil, the oil that came out was gray...not to sure what type of fluid it was but I remember reading something about a type of oil turning gray... Well now I need to inspect the brakes, then bleed and change the fluid... also I manage to pull a secondary lead from the ignition coil out of the left cylinder plug cap yesterday... not sure if I need to replace the coil completely or just the secondary lead/plug cap.

Me being a newbie... not just in regards to owning a banshee, but having a true toy to work on for the first time... I was wondering what are the must have tools for repairing/maintaining my banshee. I don’t have many tools now... in fact my plastic tool box has what I would call, a shitty excuse of basic, CHEAP tools collected and thrown in unorganized. I know this is a problem, and I should cut a corner off my man card, but plan to buy a respectable setup soon. With that said I was questioning the need to buy specialty tools... I’ll start with a torque wrench... is it a must or do most just tighten nuts and bolts to a reasonable level verses the specified torque...? Any other suggestion for must have tools are welcome.

So its time for me to change my transmission oil...problem is I don't know what I should use. I've read arguments on various websites and forums but haven't really found anything on bansheeHQ about this subject. Should I use an automatic transmission fluid or light weight motor oil...? If I use the ATF, I understand I will need to change the fluid more often but read from multiple posts that it will extend the life of the clutch... a light weight motor oil will protect the transmission just the same but can cause the clutch to slip...? I'm sure the transmission as of right now has a lightweight motor oil and I can't say I've noted the clutch slip. What is everyone else using... any bad outcomes with either type of fluid use...?

I was having the same problem... wouldn't kick start, I thought is was the cold but I was still having the problem after push starting the letting the engine run warm. Turns out the spark plugs were not gapped correctly when replaced by the guy I bought it from. I gapped them and shee fires up without issue now.

I found the problem (hopefully).... I had mentioned in another post that the dude I bought the banshee from had replaced the spark plugs so my plan last night was to check the plugs, due a compression test and see the results. Well I pulled the first plug, it looked good in terms of color and such showed a buddy of mine who came over to drink some beer and laugh at the newbe trying to troubleshoot.... I was pulling the second when it hit me... the first plug looked as if the gap had not been adjusted. I remembered read in the Electrical Q&A the gaps should be .070-.080. I finished pulling the second plug and measured the gap...sure as shit when the dude replaced the plugs, he didn't set the gaps, he just put them in. Well I adjusted both plug gaps, did a spark test, put them in....the shee fired on the second kick, no problems running...I let it warm up for a bit then killed. Ten minutes later I kicked again...fired up on the third kick.... I completed the test start test a third time after letting the shee sit for another twenty minutes.... fired right up. So I never did a compression test... not sure I need to. Let me know if anyone thinks I found and corrected the problem or if I found a false fix...

/ I rode (road..?) this past weekend and did not notice rev up upon startup (no-choke after engine was warm) and/or idle. It only bogged alittle and dyed after idle for a few minutes, (which I was told will happen with high performance 2-strokes). I will build a leak-down tester this weekend and conduct the test...however I don't know how to conduct the compression test. What tools ext. will i need? Also, I talked with the guy I bought the shee from. He use to race and owns a shop in town here. (credability...?) I was told he ran the shee through tests when he got it on trade this past fall. The only problem he found was bad plugs which he replaced. As for the possible air leak, he told me if I ran a tank of gas through the shee this past weekend, an air leak would have most likely siezed the engine... So I should start with checking the plugs again...( I ran 35 to 1) which he said was a bit rich for the motor in its modded condition. None the less I will check the plugs and perform a leakdown test. More info on the biuld.... He told me the cylender was bored to .020

Thanks for the replys!!! A list of what I know: 96' Red/white Re-build summer of 2010 Wiseco Performance crankshaft/Rods VForce3 Reed Vales FMF Fatty Pipes/Powercore silencers Dirt Digger Clutch Grip Throttle White Brothers Boost Aftermarket A-frames After Market Gearing...no sure the Ratio TORS Removed May be others, I guess I'll findout when I get the balls to really take this thing apart. I will conduct a test of the electrical system tonight (basic spark test, I won't have time to pull out the Ohm meter until this weekend).... If the problem is the CDI or stator, how will I know? I road this weekend, couldn't let it idle for more then a few minutes (3-5) without it dieing on me (not sure if that snormal with the listed engine work)... the only problem (I could see, hear, feel from start to finish)... was kick starting. I had to pull start (which I don't want if I can avoid it). I have a repair/troubleshoot manual on the way so I don't think I will dive to deep into taking components apart until it gets to me, but any theories based on the provided info will be much appreciated.

I recently purchases a 96 banshee with mods, but am having trouble with starting/re-starting. I've been reading many of the questions and answers on this forum and decided to knockout some troubleshooting to include build a leakdown tester and due the test myself. I have also gone online to price new boots for the intake (if thats the problem) and to see if there is any way of eleminating the boost bottle. I came cross the "Billet Intake Manifolds" (this one specifically made by CP). It claims to eleminate the boost bottle and boot damage by using "internal crossover design". I was just wondering if anyone has used or was thinking of using this product, if so let me know what you think about it. I would like to get some first hand account prior to purchasing. I will post again once I've completed an electrical check and leakdown test