Justgotabanshee
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Posts posted by Justgotabanshee
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Ok so im redoing a bunch of things on my banshee... Mostly im just doing cosmetics but ive got that itch for a little more power but im not sure what to do next. My current set up is a trinity racing cheetah 400 top end with power valves and custom porting. It has a cool head. I have 250r style boyson v force 3 reeds with spacers and keihn 38mm flat slide carbs with a cfm air box that uses dual filters. I also am running 4 degree advanced timing plate with trinity stage 4 pipes and silencers. sprockets are a 16t front and 40t rear... How could i get a little more juice out of it without going over the top? It was recently rebuilt so i dont feel like tearing appart the engine again so the +4mm long rod is out.
also kick out those boysen reeds and get some vforce3reeds alot more acceleration...better powercurve ability
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Ok so im redoing a bunch of things on my banshee... Mostly im just doing cosmetics but ive got that itch for a little more power but im not sure what to do next. My current set up is a trinity racing cheetah 400 top end with power valves and custom porting. It has a cool head. I have 250r style boyson v force 3 reeds with spacers and keihn 38mm flat slide carbs with a cfm air box that uses dual filters. I also am running 4 degree advanced timing plate with trinity stage 4 pipes and silencers. sprockets are a 16t front and 40t rear... How could i get a little more juice out of it without going over the top? It was recently rebuilt so i dont feel like tearing appart the engine again so the +4mm long rod is out.
2 strokes dont have valves...what are you talking about? boost bottle?
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Ok I picked up a pair of CPI's for 300 new but I also just picked up a new pair of FMF gold series orignal power core 1 for 100 bucks there old but new in the box so untill I have some porting done and my 4 mill I'll keep the FMF's on here's what it looks like now. Anyone have these and are they alright how do they compare to the T-5's
Yeah stock carbs and what ever the elevation is for Dumont. So far i just put some 220 mains in, air box is still on untill i can get some bigger jets. What size mains do you think I should run on these FMF's with no air box? Anyways I think it was a STEAL for a 100 bucks what do you think
fmf is a good pipe for mx track...toomey is a racing pipe that will beat fmf...pro circuit...paul turner... but they aren't the way to go if you wanna drag race....if you want to drag race go with cpi or the new snipers probably... i would prefer the t5 over the cpi on a 4mil ported banshee....you get more power with that setup.... With the stock engine you really shouldnt be pushing over 9000rpm...thats when cpi get there most power.. when the people use their cpi's is on their 421 cubs or above....those engines can pull farther which is what the cpi's are the best at without a doubt... t5 work at a lower rpm which provides the most power for the 4 mil ported banshee in my opinon T5 are also known to have the sweetest sound
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You will like the cpi's. They are like T5's on steroids. They do what the t5's do only rev out farther.
Which will kill his engine...which will cause more rebuilds. CPI are for dragers.....so obviously they're a top end pipe and they start at 7000 rpm and rev out and the engine shouldn't be doing that.... 2 strokes arent as good as four strokes climbing hills... t5 kick in at a lower rpm therefore giving him more power up hills, and thats what he needs
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Ok i just picked up a new pair of CPI's for 300 so i had to by them. anyways I know this is the worst question to ask but what would be a good starting point for jetting with these pipes on a basically stock shee. Thanks
Should of waited :/ to get the full power out of those cpi's you will be killing your enginge
anyways goodluck with the banshee 
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He is considering Shearers which are drag pipes.
And no, you will get more power with the Snipers or Shearers than the T-5's. That's a fact.
I know that the Snipers are expensive, but I think they are going to be worth every penny based on the information given by Jim and Gary.
i agree with wicked atv...look at his response he explained it way better than me
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I would seriously consider looking into the new Sniper pipes, produced by Sniper Racing Products.
Those are inframe drag pipes.... i think he wants more of a agressive trail or sand dunes...if you want the 4mm crank with ported cylinders i think you would get more power out of the t5's just my opinoin... Every rider has their own thoughts
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Dude, thats way slow. Not to brag, but mine will pull 70.7428374812943 no prob.
no i was talking to the guy who was talking about the gears inside the crank but thanks anywyas
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73 always seems to be the number that sticks in my head
73 what cm mm? tooth?
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when most say gearing them mean changing the sprockets.
but you can change the primary gear ratio too, (the gear on the crank and the gear behind the clutch basket)
yes i know the chain sprockets but can you explain inside the crank?
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this isn't 100% true.
you need the required power to get to the speed also.
where you get gears? yea but then you could gear a banshee to
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ok well ive asked this before but i never got my answer....i trail ride alot...occasionaly try to hit the sand....and if im up to it i would BARELY take it to the race track....i kinda want a regular banshee on the trails...but i want to mod it to beat and 450's out there
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lemme know wanna hit 100 plus but not change my frame whatso ever if its possible
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I know Fran use to work there. Not sure if he does anymore or not
fran still does he was there a week ago with kevin
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I personally like the design of the 3's more than the 2's. The 2's have too many little screws that can come loose and go flying into your top end. If you already have the dual stage boysen reeds, you probably won't notice a whole lot of difference with the vforce system. Both work about the same and both are better than stock.
To answer the other guys question... Yes, if you are running stock reeds, then get whichever vforce reed system you like more. Both are better than a stock setup, especially on a 4mil.
agreed i had vforce2 on my blaster and is flew into my top end and blew it.... rebuilt it with vforce 3 reeds cause they were the only one in stock...feel more power and throttle response and theyve been great for along time
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What is the sprocket setup again? isnt one for torque and one is for top speed? help
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let me know shee owners
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Give kevin a call. He will get you set up with what you need. He will go over what type of riding you want to do and what parts you have/will need. Tell him Jared sent you... His number is in my sig.
kk thanks everyone
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I would do a 4mil stock cylinder ported. Give Kevin Herr at Herr Jugs Racing a call and go over your options with him. He can port your cylinders and get you any of the parts you would need. He has some very fast turnaround as well.
Finding a combo between trails and drag racing at the dunes with friends is going to be tough. Trails you're going to want low end power and racing friends at the dunes you're going to want more mid / top end. You can't get both. Split the road and go with a 4mil with a dune port and run some smaller pipes and smaller carbs. Probably be the closest you will get to what you're looking for.
You might also look into a serval cylinder. If you want to go with an aftermarket cylinder block that will be the closest you can get to what you're looking for. The stock cylinder with porting will be cheaper route of the two.
i dont want to drag race on track... i wanna recreational race my friends
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i do a lot of trail riding but im also going to race a couple a times and go to the sand dunes occasionaly... what engine should i get if i want just a decent trail shee....but when i bring it out to race it still kicks everyones ass... should i just go with a cub?
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Servel would need a little coaxing to be a great match for Snipers, but you could still bring it into a format less than full drag insanity and very dunable...Jim
pipes look sick
you should put a dyno chart up against big bore cpi's if they perform better youll make a hell of alot of money...I'd buy them
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Here's another wrench. Depending on the motor you plan to run it's going to vary a Big Bore pipe or not Big bore from CPI. You have to be set on ready with what motor you plan to build. from the post of CC's you had mention you still not sure and you were guessing 450 to -465cc's guessing your looking at a 68bore /61 or a 68/64 stroke motor more likely cheetah cubs My opinion stick with the CPI's Small Bore unless you plan to use 72+ up bores like super cubs or something. Oh and by the Way Toomey's will hit over 10K depending on the Motor design. Compression port timing stroke etc.... But the average build with T-5;s sign off is about 9800 RPM but they have a nice over rev that don't drop off like a cliff.
Remember one thing as well the point to a build over a 4-stroke is you want to build the motor to out last your buddy's 4-stroke. the more Chain saw abuse and RPM you add the worst the life span is to the motor. If you can build it to make every thing from 5500RPM to say... 10-10,500 you'll have a long lasting motor. The lazier the motor is on the power band the less the motor life will be. This something we have to consider when we build dunner and RZ's for our customers. Just some info as well many builders will agree... also as well i recall trail riding being a issue that is what you wanted. Just think about 7k -10,000 RPMs all at once with about 90-100HP around a treee.... Yikes.
thanks bud...well can you tell me what i should do?...im leaving all plastics on ...not adding to the frame.. i want between a 450 and 500 big bore kit...i saw trinity had a 485 cc big bore kit for like $4000 though. Ive seen other people that get them for a lot cheaper... and true... So what would you say i should do with my 450 500 cc engine? if theres such a thing
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HP costs money. If they truly outperform the other pipes, they will have absolutely no problem selling.
true im just saying the dyno we did the other day with my buds shee with cpi was incredible
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thought i got kicked off or something lol thank god and no problem