TimJ

Start with the highest one and work your way down till you get it to run good. Its better to run rich than to run lean.

My engine was stock except for bills pipes and K&n Filter and I was running 280 main and 32 pilots. You can try 27.5 pilots but you might have to go 30 pilots if it "gargles" at low rpm. I am at 750 ft above sea level. (That was before I done a total rebuild and alot of mods now). It ran good with them jets in mine.

I put 340 main and it woke up. Already had them now i have some 320 main will see what that does next.

I went with 32 pilots now i am boging bad and really bad throttle response. (needle clip is on bottom groove) I am going to try to drop some on my mains and see what happens. Any advice?

Do you have the tail light assymble with bracket and how much shipped to 27893?

Just done a fresh rebuild. Mods are:Play port, v force 3 reeds, stock carbs with 360 main 27.5 pilots, noss head , 20cc domes, bills pipes, no lid on air box with k&n filter. I am at 750 ft above sea level. It idles fine and when you bring the pipes on it will scream but at low rpms both cylinders gargle. I am running 32:1 100 octane. My air screw started at 1 and a 1/2 turns I am sitting at 1/4 turn and its better but still doing it . My needle is on the next to the top knotch. Do I need to move down on the needle it was ion the middle and was doing the same. Please help?

I wish I could have made it last weekend but I just finished my motor rebuild but now I am ready. I am going to Busco this Saturday. I will be there for the june ride for sure.

Looking for a set of Toomey T5S in like new condition. Thanks Tim

have not talked to Jeff yet about them he is going to call me when he is done with the machine work. I know they sell CPI and Shearer. I ride open areas, some hill climbing, and some flat track, Maybe a drag race here and there. I guess you can say I am an all kind of rider.I like it all. I wanted to see what everybody else thought of the pipes. I have not heard much about shearer or cpi. Most people around here run Toomey or FMF that I have seen so far.

I am at the stage in my engine rebuild that I need to choose a pipe. My mods are: bored .10 over, stock stroke crank thats is weilded, aggressive dune port, NOSS cool head, stock carbs, v-force 3 reeds. Which is the best for my application Shearer, CPI, or T5's (Toomeys T5s are on backorder for another 2 weeks per Toomey). I would just like to get some input guidence on which way to go. F.A.S.T. racing is doing all the machine work.

Lookin for a tail light assymble with bracket for a 03 banshee.

Do you have the tail light assymble?

Hello everyone. I have my engine tear down done now I am ready to get the cylinders bored and ported for aggressive trail and tz bearings on the crank shaft and then welded (Looking for low to mid power). I want to know who is the best in your opinion. I know about site sponser but I was just wanted to know who is the top dog all around.

OK I just wanted to double check. I am doing a total rebuild and dont want to dump all that money and it not be right. Tim

Can this be fixed or do I need another case? Tim http://www.flickr.com/photos/59243189@N05/5426612672/

I have a crank seal leaking so I am going to do a total rebuild. My plans are: 4 mil crank aggresive trail\flat track port cool head with 20cc domes ( domes are maybe want to go as high as I can and still run pump gas ) if needed bore and new pistons (not sure untill I tear it down ) v-force 3 reeds toomey t5 pipes ( have bills pipes but need replacing ) adjustable timing plate Stock Carbs ( has 280 main jets ) I am at 130ft above sea level ) this might need changing? K&N air filter with airbox and top ( will remove top ) after rebuild Any more suggestion I might need are welcome. Tim

If it is the crank seal I just have to drain oil, remove both side covers, remove stator on left side, remove the clutch gear on right side then I should be able to remove the seals and replace them. Am i thinking correctly? Or am I going to have to break the engine down more? I am going to build me a leak down tester to chech it out but I wanted to get a heads up on how to replace them if that is it. I am pretty sure by what everyone has told me that this is the problem, but I am going to do a leak down test to make sure. Thanks to everyone for the help in advance. I hope to be running soon. Tim

Tedd1 you were right the oil is from the vent tube for the case. How do I fix this? Anyone? Tim

Ok here it goes I can let it sit there an idol and everything is fine. I let it warm up about 5 min. When I ride for about 15 min there is oil all over my A arms ( riding down path and yes doing wheelies lol ). It is dry under the engine but from the front of the engine to the A Arms is covered in oil. Any ideas, is it time to tear the motor apart? Tim

I would like to say thanks to RZbansheeman for steering me in the right direction. It was the pilot jet. Thanks Tim

I am willing to spend up to $1500.00. Will this do what I am looking for? I plan on do it all at once but I want to order parts over a couple months and have everything that I need when I start.

If someone could guid me in the right direction on getting the most out for the type of riding that I do. I mainly ride open areas and some hill climbing. The area is sandy dirt. For those in NC I ride at Busco Beach. I want to redo my engine and want to know what mods will best suit me from top to bottom (cylinders, jetting, carbs, heads, etc). I want to get a list of parts so I can start ordering them. I plan on completly redo my shee. So if anybody could start my list I would appreciate it. Thanks Tim