Junior

Hey guy, lets not start rumors.

scarrrry lol be careful! from the look of those toys.... you'll be alright. Still a little scary.

Hey I just powdered mine. I replaced the bj boot ( WHICH IS A B***H) I had to purchase new bushings as well. I think you may be misunderstanding what goes wrong. The bushings that the bolt goes through when you attach it to the frame melt in the oven. I had to buy new ones... its was like 30 bucks and you have to press them back in using the nut and the bolt. Its a little time consuming but it turned out fine. put a bunch of grease in the bj bootr when you replace it though because the grease burns off in the oven.

BLACK/GOLD thuglife

I think the wires have to be WAY away from the coil and plugs. I took a long time running and wrapping my wires making sure nothing is touching.

OK! BR8ES PLUGS are a success!!!!!!!! This is my working setup for the trail-tech vapor on my banshee. I have a 12v battery mounted against the gas tank beneath the seat bracket. I have a quick release charge setup so I can charge my battery between rides. I split the wiring harness and removed all unused connectors ( T.O.R.S. , Lights, Etc.) Rewired the tail light and head lamps into a switch wired to the positive on my battery. Grounded the lights and tail light to the battery. I ran the positive for the computer off the 12v battery to a switch then to the vapor. The tach is grounded to the header mount as well as the the radiator is grounded out to the header mount. The tach pickup is wrapped around the ingintion wire and held with a ziptie. I ran all of my wires paying special attention not to run the next to the ignition coil or the plug wires in order to keep from getting interference. I have two seperately wrapped wiring harnesses. One for ignition from my stator, and one for the 12v battery circuit. JBooker82 Buddy if you are ever in Portland i'll buy you a beer. I was about to bag the whole deal, youda man.

You definitely need to get that crank welded and trued if you are thinking about increasing hp. Good luck on the motor bud. Race port on these 350's makes them wicked fast.

I don't have the tach pickup on at the moment I had it wrapped around the spark plug... then around the wire. Tach is reading fine it is just the head unit keeps reseting. I got a set of br8es plugs. lets see if that does anything...

I know this thread is old.... BUT I know some people out there are referencing this thread like I have been in regards to their Trail Tech Vapor. I have been through hell with this f***in thing. I have even gone as far as setting up a 12v battery to run my computer off of so it has consistent power. Every time I rev my shee the computer registers a tach reading... even without the tach plugged into the head unit. As best I can tell the power wire is picking up interference somewhere along the line and transmitting to the computer which is causing the computer to reset. My computer and lights are on a different circuit than my ignition. I split my wiring harness and did a clean rewire. I will post on this thread as soon as I find a solution to this problem. Until then I would say... If you are reading this, BUY A VECTOR. I am ten hours into this, what I thought would be simple project, with no sign of light. I have made zero progress, any advice or solutions are welcome. P.S. I am pretty sure it is not a head unit issue. I drove to trail-tech and swapped out with a known good head unit. I am still having the same issues.

450 shipped on the cpi pipes?

hmm I did not ceramic coat mine. My Carbs are jetted for CPI's I ran my old toomeys for a breakin run, since it couldn't hurt to run rich on a break in. How much did it run you to ceramic coat your pipes? I used rattle can, they aren't perfect but the flat black held up to the heat.

I know this thread is pretty much dead... but just wrapped up a build.