yosi

yeh the compression tester i use does have thread the same length as the spark plug. what difference would it make if it were a different length?

Ive got the original yamaha manual. Pretty sure it has similar stuff in it??

Fair enough, just thought id get another opinion because i have never used or seen a clymer's manual, i only have the original yamaha manual. ive also got copies of all the schematics for the bike which i downloaded from a site somewhere as well which is very helpful. If you need them just tell us and i will post them up for you or give you the link. thanks

cheers for all the info haha. its helped me alot now that you gave me a few steps to follow. Im trying to learn as much as i can from others and form bansheehq. as soon as i get time to open up the carbys i will do so but im a little short of time since i have exams atm being 17 and a year 12 student ( Australia). Absolutely hate it anyway enough winging, you reckon if i end up rebuilding the top end i should get a new cool head? Do they increse power/performnace by much. How much do the machine shops charge for Porting? would i be able to do it?

haha im liking the go ride part you reckon the bike will start up after that. just because my compression is low doesnt mean it shouldnt start after a few kicks right. sorry im just new to the whole banshee and 2 stroke thing

Hi everyone im fairly new to this forum and ive been told to get a clymers manual for the banshee. Is there any chance that someone has a 'pdf' or 'ebook' etc of this manual or is there any chance someone has an idea of where to get a computer based version. Ive used the search function but havnt found any luck apart from the banshee service manual which i think is different? Much appreciated

yeh i might start with the reeds and while im at it clean out both carbys then got check the internal. Should i go with v force reeds if mine are damaged?

What should i look out for?

Oh and the compression was done with a cold engine so im guessing that if i done it with a warmed engine the pressure would rise abround 5 PSI i think?

ive got the banshee service manual that you can download from one of the threads on this forum. Is that the same as the clymers manual?? When you say open it do u mean the engine and check out everything?? or you mean the carbys. And i also done the compression test with a cold engine..... so if were to do it with a warm engine the compression would rise mabey 5 psi in each cylinder?/ i think haha. thanks

Ok so ive done a compresion test and looks like i will need the top end done because my left cylinder has compression of around 97 and my right cylinder compression is around 94 PSI. Unless it has something to do with the my reeds being broken or damaged letting the air to flow back out through them?? I also thought i heard some air escaping ( only very slightly) when i was doing the compression on my right cylinder thought it might have been that i didnt tighten the spark plug or the connection to the compression tester well enough so i tightened it and still heard it? might of just been the air passing through the connection tube. Do a leak down test mabey . . . . or just get the top end done and a new head gasket put in and then check for leaks? Anyone one know how much a top and costs on one of these engines and what the best setup will be. King regards

ok thanks for the info i understand now and yes i do have teh aluminium plate installed. i have also just done a compresion test and looks like i will need the top end done because my left cylinder has compression of around 97 and my right cylinder compression is around 94 PSI. Unless it has something to do with the my reeds being broken or damaged letting the air to flow back out through them?? I also thought i heard some air escaping when i was doing the compression on my right cylinder thought it might have been that i didnt tighten the spark plug or the connection to the compression tester well enough so i tightened it and still heard it? might of just been the air passing through the connection tube. Do a leak down test mabey or just get the top end done and a new head gasket put in and then check for leaks? Anyone one know how much a top and costs on one of these engines and what the best setup will be. King regards

Oh and jw about the compression test, you say to take out both plugs, where as some otehr people say to keep one in. will it vary the end result, and what is teh correct way. much appreciated.

Hey thanks for the reply. i do have the black hose running between the two carbs but im not too sure what you are talking about with the aluminium adaptor plate. This is a link of what my air box looks like exactly (not my bike though). http://www.passionracingengines.com/images/Airbox.jpg sorry pic isnt the best.

Thanks, you guys have been a great help. If the jets are stock in the carby when i check it, what would be your recomendations for the size of the main jet, pilot jet, and needle position?

just a question, you say to write down the sizes, are you reffering to the jet sizes or something else. thanks

Thanks for the reply and info, will hopefully get the carby out and cleaned when i have some free time. What if teh bike still does the same thing after the carby has been cleaned etc. Could it be the jetting because im not sure if it has stock jetting or not.

Hey just like to start by saying im new to this forum, and ive been reading some posts up here and i think its great. Now to my problem with my banshee i recently bought, it wont fire at all when trying to kick start it. it will only start when i give it a push start then it runs but not very well, as in it wont idle and i have to keep the choke open. But once it starts to rev in the higher rps it is fine, just wont idle. once it dies it can be started by the kick start in one kick and holding the choke open but starts to bog down again, and cannot be strated after that. to me i think it might be something to do with the fuel not entering the engine (dirty carburetor) or the jetting mabey (Im at sea level). Was also thinking about doing a compression test but would just like to get another opinion first. I am running fmf gold series pipes with silencers, not sure what the jetting is (planning on cleaning carby and finding out), has a K & N air filter with outerwair and no air box lid, has new spark plugs, running 32:1, and the TORS have been disconnected but the boxes above the carburetor are still attached.

approximately how much will a rebuild cost for the top end, and what does it include. pistons, rings gasket anything else haha

Hey just like to start by saying im new to this forum, and ive been reading some posts up here and i think its great. Now to my problem with my banshee i recently bought, it wont fire at all when trying to kick start it. it will only start when i give it a push start then it runs but not very well, as in it wont idle and i have to keep the choke open. But once it starts to rev in the higher rps it is fine, just wont idle. once it dies it can be started by the kick start in one kick and holding the choke open but starts to bog down again, and cannot be strated after that. to me i think it might be something to do with the fuel not entering the engine (dirty carburetor) or the jetting mabey (Im at sea level). Was also thinking about doing a compression test but would just like to get another opinion first. I am running fmf gold series pipes with silencers, not sure what the jetting is (planning on cleaning carby and finding out), has a K & N air filter with outerwair and no air box lid, has new spark plugs, running 32:1, and the TORS have been disconnected but the boxes above the carburetor are still attached. Any input wil be greatly appreciated. sorry just realised its in the wrong forum section too.