jim82

Is it possible to use the stock head studs with the Trinity Stage IV Cool Head? I've got a set of Pro Design Cool Head Studs and there way too long. The acorn nuts bottom out about .5 inches from the top of the head. Considered taking them to work and having them milled down, but after a second look there wont be enough threads. Standing back looking at it it looks like the stock studs would work perfect. I would go ahead and jerk them out and try the stockers but thats easier said than done. When I put any parts on my Banshee I use the Loc-Tite thread tape that resembles Teflon Tape. To say the least it does its job. Right now I'm using the stock style nuts out of my Polished Stainless Alloy Boltz engine bolt kit. Any feed back would be much appreciated. Jim

Okay I have bought every polished engine part I could find for a reasonable price over the past eight months, and everything that couldn't be bought as a polished appearance upgrade I have taken off and spent hours polishing it to a mirror finish. I have Triple Plated Chrome Paul Turner Mids and Fat Boy II Silencers, Polished Aluminum Clutch Cover, Clutch Cover Insert, Water Pump Cover, Starter Cover, Chain Guard, Trinity's Stage IV Cool Head, Choke Knob, Gas ON/OFF/Reserve Plate and Knob, Carburetors, Reed Cages, Polished Alloy Engine Boltz Kit, Mr Gasket Stainless Steel Braided Fuel Lines, Coolant Lines Brake Cables. I'm not putting anything chrome/polished on any other part of the bike except the engine, exhaust and wheels. The motor looks great but as you can see from my list of shinny parts the cylinder jug is still black. Forgive me for being a dumb ass I know Wal-Mart's Spray Chrome wont work, but is there any kind of paint or coating your aware of I could use to paint the jug? It's all I lack and I don't want to break the motor apart and send it off, I don't have the time or money, My Banshee is running great and I'm afraid if I break it down that far all at once it wont be righ. Please give me any idea's or thoughts you have about this. Jim

I run a Mod-Quad High Flow Billet Water Pump Impeller in my Banshee with no problems. I think it was a quality part and a good upgrade IMO. I bought mine new off eBay $52.00 Free Shipping.

I run a Mod Quad Billet impeller in my Banshee. I bought it off eBay for $52.00 free shipping. They claim they push the coolant through the engine and radiator 3X the pace of the Factory OEM Plastic Impeller. Its a great upgrade. I complimented the Mod Quad Billet Impeller with a 30% bigger Aluminum Radiator, 2 Billet Inline Coolers, and a Trinity's Stage IV Cool Head. I was a little paranoid after my Banshee over heated and seized up. I haven't had any more problems after adding my cooling mods.

I'm running the Iridium NGK Plugs as well, they are an awesome plug the Manufactures code on the NGK Iridium Plug is: BR8ESIX. They are well worth the extra money. Throttle response is where you can see the biggest improvement in the Iridium plugs vs the common NGK BR8ES Plug thats used in the Banshee. I got a case of four plugs off eBay for $5.20 plus $2.95 Shipping.

Keep your eyes open on ebay, I ran across one the had for sell in the action format. I ended up with the winning bid $56.00 plus $15 Shipping, for a total of $71.00. I don't know what brand it is, it it aluminum and it holds 30% more than the stock radiator. I combined the bigger aluminum radiator with a Mod Quad billet water pump impeller (that moves the fluid through the engine 3 times the rate of the stock OEM impeller), cheap billet ebay inline coolers, and filled it up with ATV Blue Engine Ice and my Banshee has never over heated. When I bought my Banshee it was bone stock and it stayed hot, it over heated all the time and puked coolant out the over flow. The bike running hot resulted in me sticking a ring, and having to build my engine. You guys might think I went a little over board with the cooling mods but I was paranoid about my bike over heating. When the mechanic broke the engine down to rebuild it he found pieces of the stock water pump impeller in different places. He told me he does see the stock impeller come apart and fail every now and the but not very often, most of the time the stock plastic impeller breaks because the engine has been hot in the past. He also told me cheap coolant and some coolant additives drys the impeller out and makes it brittle. I upgraded my whole cooling system for $148.00 and I gave $12.95 each for two half gallons of ATV Engine Ice. I ended up finishing my cooling system off with a Trinity's Stage IV Cool Head and 20cc domes. I think the cooling upgrades and mods were one of my best investments made on my Banshee. Does any one know if you can add a Water Wetter Coolant Additive like Royal Purple; Purple Ice to the ATV Blue Engine Ice? Would there be any advantages? Thanks, Jim

What if you added the water wetter additive to the Blue Engine Ice, would there be any benefit ?

Guys I'm new to HQ, you guys have a good thing going here and its very helpful. I bought my first Banshee bone stock back in May of this year. I had been out of the ATV seen for a few years. The last Quad I owned was a 2001 Yamaha Blaster back when I was 16 years old. I bought it brand new. I always wanted a Banshee after having the Blaster "Baby Banshee". I have bought a ton of upgrades. I still need to install the Vito's Stage 3 jet kit, +10-10 adjustable timing plate, Motion Pro T.O.R.S Delete Kit, and a Drive Line Heavy Duty clutch kit with YZF 1000 Friction plates so I will probably be asking you guys questions about installing those Items. This is my 3rd or 4th post and I can help you guys out with polishing tips. I'm a perfectionist when it comes to my bikes appearance. I have a set of chrome plated Paul Turner Mids on my Banshee and I love them. While they might not be the best pipe for every rider or style of riding the triple plated chrome finish they have on them is second to none I haven't seen another brand of pipe with the quality of the Paul Turners. My brother has a Chrome FMF Fatty on his 1989 TRX-250R and I tried to make the FMF finish look like the Pual Turner finish but I just couldn't get it there. I even used my Drimel and a polishing kit, I just don't think the finish is deep/thick enough to get the mirror finish of the PT's. But any way this is the method I used on his and it came out pretty good. I cleaned the pipe first with wheel cleaner and a Scotch Brite. Then I polished the pipe with Mother's Chrome Polish. I use my finger tips to apply the polish and work it in, I think this is more affective than using a cloth because the texture/roughness of your the skin on your fingers get the polish deeper in the pores of the finish, and it takes off any contaminates that might be left even after cleaning. The heat generated by your body and friction against the pipes also makes the thin liquid polish dry faster, and its easier to get all areas of the pipe even when there on the bike. After the polish has set up and dried I wipe it off with a cotton cloth, and apply Turtle Wax Original Hard Shell Wax, it leaves streaks and it leaves a lot of dust. If the pipes are on the bike start it and let it run for a minute and this will speed things up. Wipe the wax off with a clean cloth. I remove the streaks and wax dust that is left on and around the pipe with Eagle 1 Detailer, this shit is great I use it to clean and coat everything from the plastic to the frame. After you have your pipes polished if you will wipe them off every now and then with the Eagle 1 Detailer it will make the shine last longer, the same goes for other components on your bike. It helps keep mud from sticking to the finish of everything. To keep my plastic clean I use Pledge streakless for glass and slick suffices, this works great and it last. Pledge has something in it that not only cleans, moisturizes, and shines but it also repels dust. I use the more expensive streakless now because the new plastic I bought is black and regular Pledge leaves a visible film on the black plastic. I never had that problem with the OEM white plastic. Anyway this was a little off subject but I love a clean Banshee. I hope this helps. Jim Oh, keep in mind you can't use aluminum polish to polish chrome, or chrome polish to polish aluminum it will make a mess of the finish and make it look dull.

No actually my Banshee turns better, I don't know if its where I had bent Spindles or what, but I had to be extremely careful running the stock suspension with the Paul Turner Mids because the front tire would wedge against the Pipe and you would have to literally jurk the handle bars to get it loose. I very happy with my YZF suspension conversion. I read a post on a Blue Trax forum from a guy saying it was a hick rigged set up. He is a dumb ass , it works great. IMO it is a good Idea to get all the suspension parts not just the a arms. Go ahead and get the a arms, shocks, tie rods, tie rod ends, spindles,hubs brakes, brake lines, steering stem and the handle bars. If you don't get it all it doesn't work as well, I found that out the hard way. I bought the a arms and ran 660 shocks for 2 days; then I found ran across the YZF Shocks and that made night and day difference, and with out the spindles and the rest of the YFZ set up it works but over a period time it will wear out and begin to fail or break. Good luck watch Ebay, you'll eventually run up on what your looking for at a decant price. Hell you might get lucky and find a racer who wants to upgrade his YFZ-450R and get it all cheap at one time. Go for it though you wont me disappointed!!!

I did a lot of looking on the internet and it took me about three weeks to get everything but I think I got the front end about as cheap as you can get it. I guess I'm the first one who has posted anything on HQ about using the 2007-2010 YFZ-450R parts So far so good. Just so you guys know the 2010 a arms need a little more work. The top a arms do not fit right in place you have to cut or have them milled also but its no big deal. about 1/4 inch has to be cut. So you have four additional cuts. and you gain +3 on each side vs +2 with the 06 and bellow years. If any of you guys have any questions on the new YFZ-450R front suspension conversion message me and I will be happy to answer any questions I can. Heres the items, year, and price list on the items for the suspension I bought. 1. 2010 YFZ-450R a arms and tie rods: $61.00 Shipping: $33.75 2. 2009 YFZ-450R Shocks: $79.08 Shipping: $12.92 3. 2009 YFZ-450R Hubs and rotors $65.00 Shipping: $10.70 4. 2009 YFZ-450R Spindles and steering knuckles $35.00 Shipping: $15.95 5. New Full Flight +3 Tie Rods and Tie Rod Ends $94.99 Shipping: $ 7.00 6. 2009 YFZ-450R Complete Steering Stem $31.50 Shipping: $10.00 7. 2010 OEM YFZ-450R Front Brake Hoses $21.95 Shipping: $ 5.00 TOTAL $388.52 Shipping: $95.32 Grand Total $483.84 I bought everything off ebay the a arms had 1.6 hours on them, the shocks had been used but they were still in great shape the just had a couple of nicks in the silver paint that covers the springs. By using the newer YFZ-450R parts my 2004 Banshee's ride height remained the same, it didn't lower it at all. I went ahead and ordered the spindles, hubs and rotors from the same seller, those items came off the same quad. After I put the a arms on I noticed I had a bent stock spindle, and I didn't like the angle the ball joints were in so I went ahead and swapped those out along with the hubs and rotors that I couldn't even tell had been used. To make the rear of the bike match the new and improved front width I bought a set of Forward Power-Sport's + 3 Solid balanced aluminum rear spacers for the OEM rear axle. I plan on buying a 3+3 Dura-Blue Axle as soon as I run across one for the money slightly used on Ebay or Craigslist. But these wheel spacers work great I haven't had any problem out of them what so ever. I had a machine shop here in Kentucky "Qualex" mill the YFZ-450R a arms to fit the Banshee frame, turn the a arm spacers, and three sets of sleeves out of Forged T-304 Stainless Steel. On the a arm spacers I had them go ahead and drill and tap a hole in the a arm spacer and install a grease fittings so I could keep that end of bearing lubed. This was not necessary, but I thought it could be beneficial. I'm not sure how much this would cost the average person, my dad is the Purchasing Manager at Link-Belt Construction Equipment and he is friends with the owner of the machine shop, so they did all my machine work on my a arms and other needed hard ware for free. The sleeves I had turned worked out great also, those go in the mounting holes on the spindles, and steering stem to take the slack out that I had from using the Full Flight + 3 Banshee Tie Rods and Tie Rod Ends. This would not be necessary if you were using the stock YZF-450R Tie Rods and Tie Rad Ends. I couldn't find a new set of YZF-450R Tie Rod Ends at any of the local ATV dealers, and the stock Tie Rods seemed cheap to me. So I contacted the guys at Full Flight and had the ship me there +3 Red Tie Rod Kit. They were great to deal with I wanted to ride that Friday so they upgraded the shipping to overnight UPS Shipping for free. I put a small amount of clear all condition heat tempered silicon on the outside of the Spindle sleeve to hold it in place. Then I filled the inter area with Nevastane HT/AW 2 a full synthetic grease to allow the Tie Rod Ends to move freely. I use in all my grease fittings. This stuff is great if you get it in you cloths you can't wash it out . Every lubricant used on the entire bike is synthetic, even the brake fluid is full synthetic D.O.T. 4. This is only the second post I have posted on the HQ Forums, and I don't have a Sig filled out yet so I'm going to past my build sheet to this reply. I hope my explanation on the 2008-2010 YZF-450R Front Suspension conversion will help other Banshee riders out that are planning to upgrade there front ends. Message me if you have any questions. Jim Thacker This project has cost me a lot of money, but I'm addicted to Banshee's now. I used to like working on sports cars and diesel trucks in my spare time, but not any more Quads are 1000 times easier and more entertaining to work on. I didn't build this Banshee to be the fastest Banshee out there, I built this bike to trail ride, and MX race with my brother on his 1989 Honda TRX-250R. My number one concern when putting this set up together was reliability. A mater a fact I searched the internet high and low until I found a late model Banshee that was completely stock because I thought it would be most reliable in that form, boy was I wrong!!!! This is my build list/upgrade sheet for what I consider to be the ultimate Yamaha Banshee, I'm going to post pictures as soon as possible, and I think you guys will like what I've done, all except the Plastic, I know you HQ'ers hate the Maier custom plastic, but I wanted a updated look that will make people scratch there head. I fixed the flaws that Maier had on the front end (the open area in front of the radiator by buying and modding a new 1986 Honda TRX-250R radiator shroud to force air through the radiator and fill in the void area, It turned out great! It looks like it rolled off the show room floor that way, and I still have my OEM Plastic with new Flame OEM factory graphics hanging in the garage if I decide to go back to the classic look from time to time. Lawrenceburg Kentucky, 40342 *Elevation: 787/240 Banshee Engine Moddifications: 1. Bore:.020 2. Crank: Hod Rods Forged Replacement Crank. 3. Pistons: Wiseco Forged Ultra lite Aluminum. 4. Exhaust: Paul Turner Mids/Fat Boy Silencers. 5. Filter: Ready high performance Air Filter. With stock air Box lid ON. 6. Reeds: Boysen Duel Stage Power Reeds. In OEM cages. 7. Head: Trinity's Cool Head and 20cc domes. 8. Jetting: Vito's Stage 3 Jet Kit. 9.Plugs: NGK NBR8EIX Iridium Plugs. 10. Cooling Upgrades: Mod Quad Billet water pump impeller flows 3 times more volume, 30% bigger Aluminum radiator, Mod Quad 2"l Billet inline coolers, Trinity's Stage 5 Cool Head. 11. Fuel/Oil: 32-1 pump gasoline 93 octane plus half bottle of 5pt Octane boost per 5 gallons, and Klotz Techno-Plate 2 stroke oil. 12.Suspension: Full 2010 YZF-450R front end (a arms, shocks, spindles, steering stem, Full Flight + 3 Banshee Tie Rod Kit, Fly Racing YZ4-450R Handle bars, Qualex's Custom A Arm Spacers spindle sleeves. Rear: Forward Power Sports 3 inch solid rear wheel spacers, OEM rear Shock. 13.Gearing: Drive Systems F=13 R=42 Forged Sprockets, and Chain. 14.Clutch: YZF-1000 Clutch Conversion By Drive-Line, Barnett Dirt Digger Basket (good for 75+hp. 15.Appearance: Maier Black Custom "Raptor" Style front finders, and OEM Style Black rear replacements, OEM Heal Guards. Enjoy White Flame Graphic Kit, OEM Yamaha Wave Runner Gel emblems on tank and nose. 16:Other: DG Six Pack Rack, DG Full Body Skids, DG Front and Side Frame Protectors, DG Fat Boy Nerf Bars, DG YZF-450R Fat Boy A Arm Skid Plates, DG Baja Full Rear Swing Arm Skid with chain cover, Fly Handle Bars, Jaws Shark Mouth Bumper, Eye Headlight Covers, Magnum Boost Bottle, Adjustable Timing Plate + - 10, T.O.R.S. Delete Kit, Trail Tech Vector with Trail Tech Handle Bar Pod, Mod Quad Folding Shifter, Douglas Polished Rims OE Size, 20X11-9 AT-111 Six Ply "Hole Shot" Tires, Rear: 21 X 7-10 AT-111 Six Ply "Hole Shot" Tires Front, Custom Radiator Shroud, Twin Spectre Crome/Glass Fuel Filters. 17.Polished Parts: Mod Quad 3 Piece Starter Cover, Clutch Cover, Water Pump Cover, Carburetors and Caps, Choke Knob, ON/OFF Gas Switch and Plate, Rear Brake Reservoir Cap, Boost Bottle, Head, Fuel Filters, Reed Cages, Stainless Steal Braided Hoses fuel lines and brake cables, Polished Stainless Bolt Kit. 18.Lubricants: Klotz Synthetic Gear Case Oil in transmission mixed with 10% Lucas Oil Stabilizer, Klotz Techno-Plate Synthetic 2 stroke oil, Nevastane HT/AW 2 Full Synthetic Grease in all fittings and joints, ATV Blue Engine Ice Antifreeze, Prestone Synthetic D.O.T. Brake Fluid .

What do you charge to polish a stock head? I'm wanting to get it modded for my build. Do you do that also, or do you know someone who does? I built my Banshee to be reliable, fast, and have sooth ride. I bought all the polished goodies for the motor one piece at a time off ebay and its turned out great. I bought a Pro-Design Cool head and 22cc domes off ebay but I turned around and sold it before I even tried it out, because I thought Matt "cycleworks326" a guy I met on ebay was going to build me a head. I've seen his work and its 2nd to none, but I can't get him to do it and get it to me. I wanted to have it on there by the 23rd of this month. I'm going to enter it in the Kentucky Off Road Hare Sprint Endurance Race's. Currently theres not a 2 stroke racing in that series out of 68 sport quads. HQer's help me out !!! 1. Gearing: 13/42 2. Bore:.020 3. Crank: Hod Rods Forged stock replacement. 4. Pistons: Wiseco Forged Ultra lite Aluminum. 5. Exhaust: Paul Turner Mids/Fat Boy Silencers. 6. Filter: Ready high performance Air Filter. With stock air Box lid ON. 7. Reeds: Boysen Duel Stage Power Reeds. In OEM cages. 8. Vito's Stage 3 Jet Kit, T.O.R.S. Delete Kit. 9. Cooling: Mods Quad Billet water pump impeller, 30% bigger Aluminum radiator, Mod Quad 2"l Billet inline coolers, ATV Engine Ice. 10. Clutch: Barnett Dirt Digger. 11. Tires: New 6 Ply AT-111 HD ATV TIRES Front and rear. 12. Wheels: New Douglass front and rear. 13. Plastic: New Maier Black Platic front and rear. OEM White and red Plastic. 14. Graphics: Enjoy white Flame Kit/ OEM replica Vinyl replacments. Emblems are Factory Wave Runner emblems. 15. Suspension: Full YFZ-450R a arms, tie rods, shocks/Noleen j6 piggy back springs, spindles, steering stem. Stock Banshee rear shock, 2+2 Dura-blue Axel, Fly Handle Bars. 16. Skid Plates: DG Fat Series Nerf Bars, DG Front and side Frame Guards, Jaws Bumper, DG Baja Rear skid plate and chain cover, DG a arm Skids, DG full Body Skid, DG Six Pack Rack. 17. Lights: Eye headlight covers, Silver Star Front bulbs, LED oval tail light . 18. Fuel/Oil: 32-1 pump gasoline 93 octane, and Klotz Techno-Plate 2 stroke oil 19. Other Polished Parts: Water Pump Cover, Starter Cover, Clutch Cover, Stainless Steel Braided Lines, Polished Choke Knob, Reed Cages, Boost Bottle, Pipes and Silencers, Brake reservoir cap. Well every Thing on the engine is polished except the Clutch casing, jug, head.