xander450

Sure, I'll get to that at some point... kind of focused on tuning at the moment, but I'll get to it here in a few days. Btw, it's a shame about the RD... that was the bike the got me to give up 4 strokes, and which eventually set me on a path to building this crazy thing. Meanwhile, here's a bit more info: frame is RD400. Motor is a Trinity stage 2 ported stock bore/stroke banshee. A lot of welding had to be done to make that happen, with special attention to chain line and exhaust routing. Swingarm is CalFab. Exhaust is WickedATV. Tank and seat are fiberglass pieces from Airtech. Ignition is Dyna FS. Wheels are 2.15" and 2.5" Excel aluminum rims from Buchanans. Front brake system is Brembo 32/34 (stock for a Ducati Sport Classic). Front forks are RD350 up top with XS500 lowers, resprung and revalved. Front hub is XS500 (for dual discs). Clip-ons are Woodcraft. Master cyls are Brembo gold 16mm (brake) and 12mm (clutch). Clutch cyl is Streamline. That's the bulk of it. I'll post more info when I'm done tuning.

TZ bodywork, banshee motor, RD frame (so I can register and ride on the street), and a long list of other things. Happy to give you more details if you're interested. Here's a pic from about a month ago... a few things are missing, but mostly there.

Holy hell... 25 pilots did it, thanks so much for the advice!! This has been 16 months in the making... can't express my excitement at hearing it run this evening. Ok, so mains.... I looked through the jetting threads and couldn't find anything resembling my setup. Trinity stage 2 motor, 32mm VMs... ideas on where to start the jetting process on the mains? As for building the serval myself - yeah, that's probably what happens now. I was hoping to find a builder because I figured they'd do it faster than I would as this would be my first 2 stroke motor build, but if I've got a running motor in the machine now I can handle doing it slowly. Thanks again, Alex

One of the things that makes this complicated is that I don't even know where to begin with the jetting. Trinity stage 2 motor, VM32 carbs... how's 35 sound for the pilots?

Yeah, have spark, looks great.

So I've been building a TZ350 replica around a banshee motor - just finished putting it together for a test run, and no start. Advice? Here's what I know: - compression's 105 on one side and 120 on the other. The motor's got a decked head and, according to the guy I bought it from, should run on 100 octane; but clearly compression is lower than it ought to be (500ft above sea level). - Spark seems good - Fuel is definitely flowing. Just to be sure, I kicked a bit of starting fluid through the carbs and tried starting - no change. - Using Motul 800 at 50:1 and VIP 110 race gas So obviously the 110 is unnecessary at the compression I'm at - didn't have a comp tester, borrowed one after it wouldn't start. Would a lower compression motor have trouble starting on 110? If 105 psi is low for stock, and it's got a decked head which ought to take it up to 150+, would it not run at 105/120? Even bump starting it down a hill was unsuccessful. Other ideas? Let's suppose the motor's in need of a rebuild. I've got everything I need to put together a serval motor, but can't find a local builder. Know someone in Austin or the surrounding area that can put a solid motor together?

Yes, but in this case, he advertised the parts as in spec and the motor as running, which they are not and it is not by any reasonable standard. Furthermore, he says he bought the parts from people on this board and assembled them, which pretty much does in a claim of ignorance about what was inside the motor. Which it to say, if it isn't criminal, it's close. I'd file the report and let the professionals decide - that is, after giving him a fair opportunity to make good.

I'm a forgiving guy - and in the spirit of the season, here's what I propose: if he'll man up and reimburse wacko2k $350 (seems about right, yeah?) for the stuff that he made inaccurate statements about, I think we should collectively let him off the hook. On the other hand, if he continues to be an evasive jerk, the reasonable thing to do would be to 1) post his first name and town (NOT last name or address), along with his handle, to all the boards we regularly haunt to let people know not to deal with this guy, and 2) file a police report for fraud (though that's up to you Wacko). Thoughts?

What's your story ginger? Well, so let's see - bore, used stock crank, clutch basket, gaskets... I think $350's about right to make good on being a dishonest POS with no sense of personal responsibility. What do you guys figure?

It's a complicated problem though bc you're going to either want it to be someone local-ish so they can fit to the bike, or you're going to want your pipe builder to supply your pipes in pieces so final fitting can be done by you or a local welder if you're not the welding sort. I don't know of any pipe builders close to you. Cool that you're going the serval route. What size? I just got my 4 mil serval a couple weeks ago from M&M for my motorcycle project. I'm going to do some test runs of the bike with the trail-ported stock stroke/bore motor that's in there, then rebuild with the serval. Anyway, take care, keep us posted.

Hey Pete, got a status update for us? I've got my 4 mil serval kit coming in the mail tomorrow, will hopefully be dropping that into my pseudo-TZ project in the next month or so. I haven't yet seen another example of a serval in a street bike, anxious to know how it rides. My primary concern is that even with its much improved power band, it'll still be more than enough to set off a wicked high side if the power kicks on mid corner. Only one way to know... Btw, please shoot me a note if you've got an RZ tranny you can part with - for now I'm just going to run the banshee tranny, but the ratios aren't the best.

Hey folks, Looking for a complete RZ350 tranny, including drum. Anyone got one to sell me? If so please PM, looking to get this done asap! Thanks, Alex

Because I have to build a lighting subharness anyway, I don't see a benefit to a frame ground on the DC side... if it ought to work that way, I'll just keep the ground floated entirely on that side of the rectifier. Thanks again for everyone's input, very much appreciated! Alex

Thanks for posting that wfobasheeboy, hadn't seen it. The reason I isolated the ground on the lighting side is bc my take is that since the ignition side is pumping AC and grounded to the frame, the frame would be the other side of the ignition circuit's AC phase - so a DC circuit grounded to an AC ground would functionally become "pulsed". Now, take this for what it's worth - if I really knew what I was talking about I wouldn't be asking for advice on the forum.

Thanks for the advice Snopczynski... unfortunately, a little late, it's sitting on my workbench as I type. Guess I'll run it til it goes. I actually chose that one over the Trail Tech bc the TT was only rated to 150W whereas this one was rated to 200W. I sent Trail Tech an email a few weeks ago asking if they had an appropriate reg/rect for a 200W stator, and didn't get a peep back from them (note to vendors: why have an email if you don't intend to use it?). Battery.... I usually do fine with 6Ah on my RD350s - that seem about right to you? Btw Snopczynski, I was hoping you'd wander in to this forum since I believe you've written a lot on DC conversions in here. What'd you think of the wiring scheme - do the grounds look properly placed?

The reg/rect is this: http://www.amazon.com/SPORTS-Universal-Regulator-Rectifier-01-154-16/dp/B003CJAPXI Stator is Ricky (I know, I know, came with the motor), which I believe already has a floated ground, insofar as there are two yellow wires coming out of it that have no continuity to black or frame ground, but which have almost infinite continuity to each other. That wouldn't be true of a high-output stator with two separate output circuits, correct?

Ha, yes, buying an RZ would be both easier and cheaper... but then it wouldn't be anything like a TZ350, which is basically what I'm attempting to replicate: Anyway, why build an ATV that can ride over sand dunes when you can just take a car on the highway and go around them?

Picklez... that's exactly the sort of thing I'm trying to figure out if I've mapped correctly. My understanding was that I needed to either isolate the stator side or the lighting side from frame ground - so as drawn, the battery has no connection to frame ground; all grounding in the lighting circuit, including the battery, is floated. Thoughts?

Hey there! Hoping to get some advice on wiring my banshee-engine'd motorcycle project. I've drawn up a wiring diagram that I *think* does what it's supposed to do. As you can see, the lighting ground is isolated from the frame, whereas the stator/igntion-side ground utilizes the frame. Can one of you electrical geniuses have a look and let me know if I've wandered off the farm here? And for anyone who's curious, this is what all that is for... it's sort of a TZ350 replica with a lot of modern gear. Still lots to be done of course. You'll notice that's a banshee motor stuffed in there. Thanks! Alex

Hey buddy, for some reason the system won't let me PM you (too many stored messages?)... still got any radiator hoses? What's the kit include (size, feet)? I ask bc it's not for an ATV - it's for a motorcycle with a banshee engine and mojave radiator, so the routing's pretty different. What it needs is 3 ft of 3/4" silicone hose. Got that? Thanks!

Awesome, thanks for the info! Ok, tested, it's HO, not floated. So knowing that, is there any reason not to do a partial DC conversion just for the lighting using the 150w stator output and isolate the ground on the DC side? Anyone, by chance, have a wiring diagram for a partial DC setup?

Guys, Hoping you can save me the trouble of pulling my flywheel to check something out... Bought a banshee motor with a ricky stator. There are seven wires coming out of it, and the wiring diagram shows there ought to be six. I've got red, green, red/white, green/white, two yellow and a black. So what do you figure - is there another explanation for the 2nd yellow wire other than a floated ground? Is there an easy way to check for a floated ground with a voltmeter? Thanks so much! Alex

Got it - exactly what I was looking for, thanks. And yes, going about this in this way is more time consuming (and expensive) than just dropping an already worked out kit on it - but if I know what MC size works, I have the option of using a master cylinder with a brake light switch (keep in mind, this is on a street bike), remote reservoir, side-exit line that doesn't conflict with the other bar controls... in short, I can use what I actually need. Thanks again. Alex

Ohh, I totally just worked it out. I didn't use the kit. That's why it's broke. If anyone's got formulas for relative travel and pull force, would be much appreciated.

Thanks AKHeathen, that's what I was looking for - what's the formula for that relationship? I know how to calculate appropriate MC sizes relative to brakes, but a bit out in the woods here on pull force. Camatv - it's not nearly as simple as that, but thanks, that was fantastically useful. The "kit" is a master cylinder, slave cylinder and a bit of bracketry. They didn't exactly invent hydraulics is my point here - any MC of the same size will do just exactly the same thing. So why not buy the kit? Because the streamline MC appears to interfere with the other bar controls (as mentioned above, this is on an RZ, not a banshee). And why test on a 14mm MC? Because we had one lying around. Suppose I'd said I'd installed the kit and I found the action too light, or travel too short. Someone who knew something about hydraulics would likely suggest a change in MC size. Someone who bought speed in kit form would tell me to buy a different kit.