xander450

Will do, thanks for the advice!!

I agree re: spun bearing, and it's not just a mark - as I said, I can feel that there is depth. The trans bearings look great. Lacking advice, I guess I'll just forge ahead.

Good point. Here's a shot of it. No, it's not one of the half-moon clip grooves... I put some arrows on the pic that will hopefully clarify. The "groove" is really the entire surface that the bearing rides on... it seems to have dug into the case surface. It's less than a mm, and I haven't had any tranny problems, but I don't want to ignore something important and have problems in a few months either. Thoughts?

I'm frankly more concerned about the trans bearing surface than the sealant at this point - the sealant was just a theory on why I previously had an air leak. Evidently not a very good one.

For those of you who have seen my earlier posts, I've been having some tuning trouble which turned out to be a massive air leak - so, rebuild time. This is my first motor build. I've read everything I can find, and am following the manual instructions - just a couple things I was wondering about. - The rear left trans bearing surface (not the bearing, but the surface in the case that the bearing rides in) feels like it has a groove in it. It's not entirely uniform either - on the side towards the rear of the engine on the bottom case there's enough of a groove that I can feel it, whereas on the forward side I can see it but don't feel a groove there. Is this a problem? - When I disassembled the cases, I was surprised to see basically no sealant where the cases met - all the sealant had been pushed to the outer edges of the mating surfaces, and there was remarkably little (1 mm at most). This seems like way less sealant than I would've been inclined to use, and is likely the source of the air leaks. Am I correct, or is that actually what I should expect to see? Anyone have an assembly pic with the correct amount of sealant applied? Thanks!! -A

Yeah, it isn't like this guy is the only person wrapping stock parts in CF to make them look cool, but the entire point of CF is its strength/weight ratio. If you just wrap an existing part in it, the ratio's blown and there is precisely no point. But if you're into it, I'd be happy to sell you some stick-on air vents. They don't do anything, but they look TITS.

Cool, thanks to you both. I'm quite certain I'm not leaking from the carb side, and it's time for a rebuild anyway - I figure this is the final bit of inspiration I need to rebuild with the serval kit I've had sitting around a few months.

Pickup gap is set. Done a plug chop (though I hope you're kidding about the threads...), it certainly looks lean, no carbon deposits of any sort, plug looks a bit wet but wipes completely clean. More to the point, is it possible to have an air leak that doesn't affect idle but causes the bike to require a massive main jet?

Got a trail ported motor with a decked head, Wicked pipes, boyesen reeds, VM 32 carbs, and uni pods at 500ft. It's jetted right now at 27.5/340. Idles great, but hardly makes any power at throttle, and doesn't smoke nearly as much as I think it ought to. In the revs it makes good power with the choke on, but not without. Plugs are just confusing - usually a bit wet, but ring and base cone is white. Here's where I'm losing the plot: 340 seems huge as it is for the light mods this bike has. But it's not doing the things I associate with an air leak either - idle's stable, revs aren't running away, etc. What am I missing?

So I've found some more time to work on this - here's where I'm at. I think I found an electrical issue that was part of the problem - corrected, and now it'll ride with chokes on. Still haven't found the right jetting. I'm currently at 27.5 on the pilots and 340 on the mains, for a trinity stage 2 ported motor with a decked head, VM32 carbs, uni pods. Thoughts? Main seems pretty high as is, but it's still not making much power when it revs, and it bogs pretty hard around 5-6k. Plugs wipe clean, hardly any brown at all, but they're a bit wet. Wet suggests rich to me, but clean suggests lean... wtf.

Bump... missed quadpro's sale, still need complete electrical system (with harness if 95+, without if 87-94).

Thanks!!

Has anyone here swapped their banshee from pre-95 to the later electrical system? I just want to verify that the parts are compatible, provided the harness is swapped over as well (I realize the earlier shees have round plugs). Do the flywheel and stator mount up without issue? Thanks!

Bump, still looking. Pre-95 is best, but at this point I'll take the newer style and re-wire if that's what you've got.

Thanks, but would rather not deal with switching over to newer electrics, so want to get the early style CDI and stator. Coil too, if someone's got it. Not sure which is the issue, so may as well buy all of them and have spares.

I could also use a set of good cases (and internals - nuts and bolts, all the misc bits) with no chain whack, stripped threads, etc. Please PM me if you've got what I need.

Just like the title says - looking for a (working!) stock CDI and stator of the early round-plug variety. Thanks!

Ha, there's really no substitute for experience. Just went to 27.5 pilots and it revs up much more gracefully. I'm not there yet, think I still need to come up in the pilots a bit, but it's starting to act more like a bike. Thanks again to all of you for the excellent advice. Alex

Needles are on the 2nd position from the top. And the rev issue that I'm describing is dry - if I give it throttle from idle it will rev up maybe a couple thousand RPM, then drop to idle or die. Under load it dies within a second or two.

I think I did a bad job of describing what it's doing. Basically, it will idle fine, but it won't rev up. If I give it throttle it'll usually go up a couple thousand RPM (maybe 3-4k). But it won't even hold that - usually it will drop back down to idle speed, or just quit running entirely. With the choke on, I am sometimes able to get it to rev up (with throttle) to higher RPMs. I realize that suggests it's lean, but I've tested all the way up to 360 on the mains without a change - not to mention that, even with smaller mains (280, for example) I wind up with soaked plugs. I haven't done a leakdown test. Are my symptoms consistent with an air leak? I figured that would give me an out-of-control rev, which is not at all what's happening... quite the opposite, an almost complete inability to rev.

Nope, it's no better, and possibly worse.

Sorry, that should've been 6.1k ohms on the secondary, right in the middle of spec. Carbs and jets are new. I am, I believe, running both resistor caps and resistor plugs... interesting. I'll test with non-resistor plugs.

Ok, checked flywheeel alignment and pickup gap. Flywheel was fine. Pickup gap seemed slightly wide so I set the gap closer. No change in running. Tested the coil - 61k ohms between secondary windings, .7 ohms between primaries. That seems to be out of spec (spec is .28-.38), but I've read a bunch of threads here on coil testing and that seems to be in the range of typical and functional. Spark looks good. Also rechecked float heights - both spot on. Other ideas? I feel like it has to be in the carbs since it will sometimes rev out with the choke on. Maybe my pilots are too small so it's idling fine but won't make a graceful transition to the mains?

I know it shouldn't run the same on 210s and 360s - hence the confusion. Yes, Banshee CDI and stator - CDI is Dyna FS, stator is Ricky (I know they're crap, but unless its crapulence could cause this particular problem, let's just skip that bit). Wiring: sure, but what could be wired wrong that would cause it to rev up to 4k and then tank, but sometimes rev all the way up with the choke engaged??? Petcock's fine and flowing, tank vent is venting, filters are not overoiled, reeds are intact. Plugs foul frequently during the tuning process and I replace them. That leaves: pickup coil gap and sheared flywheel key. Either of those sound like they would produce this particular set of symptoms?

Ok, I swear I'll get some pics up soon. Hard to get the camera out when I'm too busy cursing the day I ever decided this was a good idea, haha. Meanwhile, I am stumped on jetting. I've jetted my share of four strokes, but somehow this one is just doing me in. I think I've already posted the specs, but here's a bit more detail: - stock stroke/bore, stage II ported by Trinity, with shaved head - 32mm VM carbs (had 34s on it but they were problematic for other reasons) - Dyna FS ignition - Boyesen 2-stage reeds - WickedATV pipes, which have very large diameter bellies - Uni foam filters Currently I'm on 25 pilots, and it starts and idles well. Here's the confounding part: I've tested mains from 210 to 360, and goddamned if it doesn't do exactly the same thing on every set of mains: it idles perfectly, but when I get on the throttle it revs to 4k or so and then falls off entirely, usually stalling out. I'd say it was rich, but how could it possibly want less than 210?? On the other hand - to make me even more confused - it seems to run better on choke, and will even rev all the way up (some of the time) on choke - but if it were lean, unless it was extremely lean, I'd think it would rev up great but heat up quickly. And again, could it really want more than 360? Any ideas?? Carbs are visually synced.... not sure where else to go here.